Stain and Prep on the Same Day!
This Combo Kit Contains Two 2.5 Gallon Containers (total of 5 gallons) of Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain, One Restore-A-Deck Step 1 Stain Stripper, and One Restore-A-Deck Step 2 Wood Brightener.
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Description
Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain protects wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain.
RAD Semi-Transparent Wood and Deck Stain will increase the life, appearance, and durability of all exterior wood surfaces. With the easy to apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you’ll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.
Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood.
New Wood Note: New wood is not the same as “damp” wood and needs to weather and be prepped before staining. Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- How To Apply RAD Stain to Damp Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
- RAD Two-Toned Wood Decks
RAD STEP 1 STAIN STRIPPER DESCRIPTION
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that quickly removes worn finishes to restore wood surfaces. Stains and varnishes are removed along with collected dirt, mold, mildew and mill glaze.
*This product is Step 1 Stain Stripper of the Restore A Deck system.
Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper Additives
RAD STEP 2 WOOD BRIGHTENER DESCRIPTION
Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that is mixed with water to brighten and restore the natural beauty of all species of exterior wood. This product excels at brightening, removing rust stains, and tannin stains caused by fallen leaves. Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener is a safe, product that will not only brighten but neutralize the surface of the wood, creating an ideal surface that is ready to be stained.
*This product is step 2 Wood Brightener of the Restore A Deck system.
WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is intended for all wood types of weathered, exterior wood surfaces including decks, fences, siding, outdoor furniture, gazebos, and playsets. You can apply Restore-A-Deck Premium Wood Stain to hardwoods including mahogany, ipe, or other types of exotic hardwoods.
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain can be applied the same day as the prep. Make sure that all standing water has dried off the surface after prep. Typically 2-4 hours at 70º F and less than 50% humidity.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- How To Apply RAD Stain to Damp Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
Coverage:
RAD Wood Deck Stain applies at about 100-200 feet per gallon. Actual coverage varies depending on wood porosity.
RAD STAIN ADVANTAGES
- Stain the same day as the prep!
- Utilizing the latest advancements in water-based stain technology
- Cost-effective stain and sealer for your wood
- Deep penetration into the wood grain resulting in less chance of wear and tear
- Protects wood from damaging UV oxidation and graying
- Available in 4 beautiful semi-transparent finishes – Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, & Dark Walnut
- For use on all exterior wood types and surfaces, not just decks
- Eco-Safe
- Dries to a flat, natural-looking finish
- Water-based, easy cleanup
- Easy to reapply as needed
- Easy to remove if needed
- Does not promote mold/mildew growth
- Low VOC content, compliant with all US states and Canada
RAD STAIN STRIPPER AND BRIGHTENER ADVANTAGES
- #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Stripper and Wood Brightener
- RAD Stain Stripper removes most clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid coatings
- RAD Stain Stripper preps previously stained wood and decks
- RAD Wood Brightener neutralizes stain strippers
- RAD Wood Brightener brightens and restores wood surfaces
- RAD Wood Brightener restore pH balance of wood
- Powdered formulas make 5 liquid gallons when mixed
- Extremely cost-effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon
- Eco-Safe formulas
- Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
Important Note: Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper may not fully remove Solid Color Wood Stains, Paints, Varnishes, and Excessively Over-Applied Acrylic Semi-Transparent and Semi-Solid Coatings. To remove these deck and wood stain types, use the RAD Paint & Solid Stain Stripper
Coverage: 750-1000 sq.feet per container.
AVAILABLE SEMI-TRANSPARENT COLORS:
NATURAL, CEDAR, LIGHT WALNUT, DARK WALNUT, COTTAGE GRAY
WARNING: This product can expose you to Ethylene oxide, which is known to the State of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm, and Cumene, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.p65Warnings.ca.gov.
I have 2 decks in a Tahoe cabin and exposed to intense sun and snow in the winter( elevation 6500ft).
One is made out of redwood and is well over 25 yrs old. It was power washed lightly and does it need the stripper and brightener before stain with Dark Walnut semi transparent? I think it had Cabot Timber Oil in natural or Preserva Wood Oil and Sealer in Cedar before.
Other deck is made out of Meranti hardwood and has natural color TWP1530 stain& sealer that is mostly chipped off .
It looks grayish now.
Will stripper and cleaner be enough to remove varnish/ sealer?
The railing is pressure treated pine with a dark Super Deck (Mission Brown) transparent stain. Again Stripper and Brightner before stain is enough right?
I want to use semi transparent Dark Walnut on both decks and railing. Thanks
The Deck Stain Stripper will remove the Cabot ATO, TWP 1500, and Super Deck oil based stain, but your last pictures look shiny, like a varnish (not the 3 stains mentioned), and a deck stain stripper will not remove a shiny varnish coating. You would need our RAD PaintStrip for those areas.
We would suggest our regular deck stain stripper with both additives for most of this decking:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
And our RAD PaintStrip for the shiny varnished areas:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel.html
Make sure to brighen after.
I didn’t buy the additional additives to the Stain Stripper. Can I just use a more concentrated mixture or add liquid dish soap to the mix?
Also can I sand the varnish with 60grit sand paper on the varnished deck and then use the stripper instead of using the RAD PaintStrip?
Thanks in advance
The max amount of stripper powder you can mix into 1 gallon is about 10 oz. It will not replicate the Booster and Gel, and dish soap would not help.
Yes, you can sand off the varnish first.
Hello. If I want to strip the stain off my fence leisurely can I strip first and skip the brightener step until say a month later? I’ll “start over” and use the cleaner then brighten before I stain if I do it this way. Considering this due to the size of my fence and so I can spend more time with the stripping process so I don’t feel rushed with stripping. Is their any reason to brighten both times? Everything I read says after stripping/brightener stain must be applied within 2 weeks. If intentionally want to stain after two weeks can I skip the brightener step until Im ready to stain? Any reason to do it twice? Thanks
You need to brighten as soon as you are done stripping to neutralize the stripper. Since it is vertical wood, you could get away with a light pressure wash to all wood after the month of stripping/brightening.
Light pressure washing after… If I go that route do I need a cleaner and brightener for that step?
Doubt it. Vertical wood will not get that dirty.
Ok. Going to strip with both additives brighten immediately after and send some pics to see if you think I can apply the dark walnut semitransparent? Would be nice to see some wood grains vs complete solid (paint look) but if prep doesn’t work fully guess might not be able to go the semitransparent route. Will follow up with photos.
Here’s a pic of the fence after prepping with 12 hours dry time. Seems to be lightening up more every few hours. Under the yellow line was prepped. One photo is included unprepped for reference. Is semitransparent dark walnut an option or do we need to lean towards solid. I did use both additives and let it sit for 30-45 min without drying. The wood has allot of rough cut sawn spots which I like. Lighting isn’t the best but hopefully these pics help. Drumroll on semi vs solid for us. Your expertise thoughts…
You can use the semi-transparent.
I have a 450 sq foot deck, stained using oil based semi-transparent “canyon brown” pigmented stain in 2019. The wood is about 30 years old; unknown type.
I would like to use your product, but would like to “lighten up” the color as it can get very hot in the summer.
I plan to strip, brighten, and stain using your product. The dark walnut color is closer in color to the current boards. Would I be able to successfully use the “light walnut” color after stripping and brightening the deck?
Thanks!
Yes, you would.
I have sanded the top rails but will be stripping the deck boards. Will the stripper hurt the sanded top rails if I apply on those as well.
No, but make sure to brighen all wood including the tops of rails when done.
Hi! I have been enjoying all the info on your website about how to be most successful with deck staining. A couple of questions:
1. if the whole deck is sanded, is it necessary to strip off old stain? It has been 3 or 4 yrs since deck was last stained, and the deck is 30 yrs old, with some damage that will be repaired.
2. So, if it is all sanded and stripper or cleaner are NOT applied, would the brightener still be beneficial?
I ask because I am paying someone to repair and stain the deck, and they prefer to simply sand, then stain. The deal is, I pick and purchase the stain. I like RAD especially for its health and environment advantages. They are used to using oil-based stains. Thank you!
1. All old stain has to be removed by sanding or stripping.
2. Clean and brighten all wood after sanding.
Hello, I went through the full Restore-A-Deck process in 2018, using the stripper and brightener. I just ordered the cleaner and brightener and more of the exact same semi-transparent stain. I ordered the cleaner, and not the stripper, because I’m restaining using the exact same stain, so I didn’t think fully stripping was necessary. Might be a stretch to say this is a maintenance application, considering it’s been four years, I’m in MI, and the deck is weathered; I will be power washing before I start. Should I have bought the stripper, not the cleaner?
You should be fine with the Cleaner and pressure washing.
I put Penofin Blue Label on my deck last year. It looked nice initially, but this year splotches of black “I-don’t-know-what” have developed all over my deck. I want to remove the Penofin and black splotches and re-stain using RAD.
Will RAD Stripper remove the Penofin and black splotches?
Thanks.
Yes, make sure to brighten as well when done.
Excellent! Thanks for the quick reply.
I just did the whole process and my deck looks great. It just rained today and noticed the water is absorbing into the wood. The stain had great penetration and soaked right in. Should water bead up on top of the wood? Or should it soak in? Would it hurt to apply a sealer over the stain?
No, it is not designed to bead water but shed water as it is a breathable stain. You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain.
Copy that, thanks for the reply!
All boards to the left of the pillars were replaced two years ago and never stained. Boards to the right are original and have old stain on them (not sure what). What should we do? Strip the old boards and just clean/brighten the new wood?
Yes, that is correct.
And I have a power washer that hooks up to the hose and there’s the reservoir on the long nozzle that mixes the product in—-is that the right device for these products?
No, you cannot use this for applying the prep products. You apply with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off.
Is there a kit with cleaner and brightener? There’s nothing to strip here. It’s about 200sq feet of dry ass neglected wood. Will this be enuf? Thank you!!
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/best-restore-a-deck-prep-products/restore-a-deck-package-300/flypage.tpl.html
Hello, I purchased the above kit with the additive and booster combo in hopes of properly prepping my deck before staining it with RAD semi transparent cedar. I also purchased another gallong of the stain. We purchased our home about a year and a half ago and from what I can tell the previous owner used Thompsons water seal. The deck is about ~475 square feet (not including the beams/roof).
My question is…
1) Did I purchase enough stripper/brightener/stain to complete my deck (flooring/beams/roof)?
2) From reading the comments, the process would be apply stripper, brightener, then stain. If I wanted to sand the beams/floor how much time do I have after applying the stripper then sanding before I apply broghtener?
3) What is the best way to tackle the small wooden beams on the roof? Can I just apply stripper/brightener without agitation then power wash?
1. Yes, you have enough prep.
2. If you want to sand, do it prior to the brightening. A few days in between is okay.
3. Yes, you will need to agitate any of the wood for this. Not a hard strip.
Make sure to do the fence next!
Looking to finish this new deck this year. Put in in Oct so it went thru the winter here in MI. Asking what I need for a natural finish. All that will apply so I get everything I need. Thank you Larry
For prep, use this kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Kits-Best-Prices.html
For stain, use the RAD in Natural. If in Metro Detroit, you can pick up at our location in Bloomfield Hills.
49068 Marshall, MI
No dealers there but we can ship to you.
Hi I used this product in 2020 to stain my deck. Now we have some faded sun spots. What products do I need to purchase to restrain/correct this area?
Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit for prep before reapplying.
Hello,
I am looking to buy this product for a porch for a customer of mine. I’ve not used this product before so I have some questions before I commit to buying.
1) one of his concerns is will the cleaner or stripper kill any of the plants and bushes growing around the edges of the porch?
2) he’s looking to clean the mold and mildew off of the ceiling of his porch (which is a finished knotty pine ceiling). Would you recommend this product for such an activity?
3) will the stripper take off paint from his house or the columns of the porch? If so, is there a way to protect the paint so this project doesn’t require a new paint job as well?
4) if he only want’s to clean the mold off of the finished ceiling and not do a full refinish, would the cleaner do that without destroying the pre-existing finish?
5) does your finish resist new mold and mildew from growing again in the near future?
Thank you kindly,
Faye
1. As long as you prewet and rinse any over spray right away, you should be fine.
2. Use the RAD Cleaner.
3. The Stripper will not remove paint unless the paint is peeling.
4. The Cleaner should only be used if you are planning on recoating.
5. Yes.
want to make sure I do this correct, currently the deck has Penofin deck stain very old would like to start fresh with your product. Stripper , cleaner, stain correct? thanks
No. Strip, Brighten, then stain. No need for the Cleaner.
I received my stripper/brightener kit a couple days ago and am ready to do the work today, but it’s going to be about 100 degrees here. I planned to powerwash the deck, then use the stripper, powerwash again, then the brightener, and powerwash one more time before applying the stain wet on wet. Do you have any comments on the above process, or tips/suggestions to get the best result on such a hot day?
Prep is fine but do not stain on such a hot day: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-hot-sun-application.html
How long can the deck sit if we only do prep today before it would need it again? It’s supposed to be over 90 degrees every day until this weekend here. Will it be ok to prep today and not stain for another 3-4 days?
Yes. Stain within 2 weeks of prep.
Actually, looks like 90% of the deck will be in shade by the time we are ready to stain today. Do you still suggest waiting until a <90 degree day overall?
Yes, 90 or less.
I have a weathershield pine deck that is one year old, my plan is to just apply finish since it is clean and pristine, should that be my plan?
You must prep. See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Can you tell me what type of wood is used in your stain test photos above? Trying to get an idea of the natural wood color before staining in order to choose color.
Cedar but colors vary not just on wood type but the age of the wood.
I am looking to restain my redwood deck – part new, part old and last coated with Cabots Australian Timber Oil. I have a few quick questions:
1. I am having it professionally done and they are planning to power wash and sand prior to restaining – will I still need to have them use the stripper for the previously stained portion of the deck after sanding? Will the stripper work as a cleaner for the unstained portion of the deck well enough not to buy both products? 2. Which color option is best for redwood? 3. The deck is approx 440 sq ft, accounting for 15-20% overage for ends, vertical surfaces, etc. How much product will I need? Thank you!
1. No need to strip if you sand it all off. Final prep after sanding with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener. One of each.2. Any color you like. Color preference is your choice.3. Only one coat of stain on sanded wood. About 3-4 gallons.
Thank you. Would you suggest sanding at all, or just using the stripper and brightener to remove the old oil stain then power washing? And color wise I was just wondering what most people use on redwood, if one color is more popular, or looks better on that grain.
You should not have to sand. Stripping will work, brighten after. Color varies based on wood type and age of wood so no way to say for certain what it will look like on your wood and there is not one color that is more popular than others.
With all that said, should I buy the kit with the stripper, or the cleaner?
Stripper Kit.
Last question – still 1 coat of stain if only using the stripper and not sanding? Or two coats needed?
One coat since part is new.
I need to repair some boards before applying stain. Can you recommend wood filler and method of repairing cracked boards before applying RAD stains?
Wood filler does not work on decking. It also will not blend when staining. Just leave as is. Cracks are normal in outside wood.
I used Thomson’s Water Seal on my deck last year. The house/deck is new to me so I don’t know if the previous owner ever did anything with the 10 year old deck. After one year the coating is pealing in areas which get a lot of sun and traffic. Would this kit be good to replace this finish?
Yes.
I applied a single coat of Natural Semi-Transparent to a treated pine deck a week ago. I noticed some areas of light coverage. Will it be ok to touch-up those areas?
No, it will not blend and or take after the first coating has cured and dried.
Thanks for your quick reply. Would it be better to apply a light maintenance coat in spring?
Yes.
I have a deck that was stained 3 years ago. There are a few areas with stain remaining. What would you recommend, stripper or not? Could I get a way with a cleaner than brighter if I go with a darker stain? Also it is 288 sq ft, how much stain?
You will need to strip and then brighten this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Kits-Best-Prices.html
About 3 gallons for two coats.
I purchased a home 2 years ago, it was build 15 years ago. The deck is 376 sq ft. Previously stained with Valspar or Flood Cedar penetrating oil (two empty cans in storage area). Would like to use Restore-A-Deck semi-transparent water base cedar stain. Looking at the kit with stripper/5 gallons of stain. The photo of the steps shows a pressure wash result on the first few steps without a cleaner or stripper. Question is best way to proceed. Thank you!
Use the Stripper with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Brightener after.
Should I complete the pressure wash before the stripper? Pressure wash to remove it? Any time needed between stripping with both additives and the brightener? Time between brightener & stain? Thanks again, will add 1 photo I forgot earlier.
No need to pressure wash first. You brightener as soon as you are done with stripping. You can apply the RAD Stain to damp or dry wood.
Which stain is best to achieve a look with less red/orange, and more brown?
Dark Walnut.
Hi there! We haven’t done anything to our deck since we moved in 5 years ago. It’s a 2 level 450 sq feet deck(plus the vertical railing). We don’t know what it was stained or painted with or the type of wood that it is made out of. The pictures are showing the deck after I power washed it and cleaned it with Valspar all in one wood prep cleaner. What are my option to get it cleaned off all the way? Sanding? If I do send it all down what are the products that I need to apply afterwards and how much of it? Thanks
Looks like you have a solid stain which it cannot be removed fully (unless you power sand it all off) and you will need to use a solid stain to go over it: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
If the stripping successfully removes all the old solid, why the need to stay with a solid?