When working with newly installed wood and decking surfaces, the Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is ideal after 3-6 months of natural weathering. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain’s long-lasting composition works hard to absorb quickly and penetrate deep into the wood grain to withstand the elements and stay true to its beautiful finish long after the staining project is complete.
Before beginning the staining process, it is recommended that new wood surfaces be installed 3-6 months before prepping and staining. To prep new wood surfaces after the waiting period, use Restore-A-Deck Cleaner. It’s concentrated powder formula is cost-effective, easy to transport, and especially good at removing dirt, grime, mold, and mildew that is prone to showing up on new wood surfaces.
Note: Kiln dried and KDAT wood still needs to weather after install. About 1-2 months. Rough sawn cut wood does not need to weather.
After the new wood has been cleaned, the wood will appear slightly darker. To restore the wood and neutralize the pH, use Restore-A-Deck Brightener to lighten it to its original appearance. The RAD Wood Brightener further opens the wood pores for an ideal surface to apply Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain.
Following Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener, continue with Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain. Unlike other brands of wood stain, Restore-A-Deck’s formula can be applied to wood surfaces following the Brightener on the same day on damp wood or can be applied to dry wood on following days. If applying to damp wood, it is recommended to allow the wood to dry 2-4 hours after prep is complete.
Only 1 coat should be applied to new wood that is less than 9 months old for the RAD semi-transparent stain. A light maintenance coat of the RAD semi-transparent stain should be applied 12-18 months after the first coat was applied. Every 2-3 years after that is normal.
For the RAD Solid Color Stain, apply 2 coats. Reapply as needed down the road.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
If you have any questions, please comment below.
Hello, I just applied RAD semitransparent stain on my deck after cleaning and brightening with RAD products. The deck looks great other than a few shoe prints where I stepped before the stain was dry enough. The stain has been on for more than 24 hours. Can I sand off these shoe print marks and just apply stain over the sanded areas?
Thanks for your help!
It will not blend if you spot prep and spot apply.
How long is it okay to delay between brightening and applying RAD semitransparent stain?
Stain within two weeks of prep.
how many gallons for new wood deck installed in july 2022 ….square footage of deck is 1400
About 10 Gallons for the 1 coat for new wood.
I have applied the cleaner and have a lot of raw wood fibers after power-washing — it is also taking a long time so I have a few questions.
I am no longer able to do it all in one day due to time. If it rains prior to staining (it’s supposed to rain tomorrow), do I need to re-prep with cleaner prior to staining? Should I brighten today and stain after rain? or brighten AND stain after rain?
Rain does not harm the prep so you do not have to redo it. Brighten today.
I have rust oleum deck restore on my deck will this product work?
You will have to sand it all off the fix this and then you can use the Restore A Deck Stains.
I have a 5 yr old pressure treated deck with PPG ProLuxe solid stain on it. The strain peeled badly after 1 yr and we are in search of a better option.
All decking is weathered already 3 months (some newer boards). How important is it to get all of the old solid stain off the deck of going with a new solid stain again?
Whatever can come off easily has already been removed. Can i just follow the clean/brighten/stain sequence at this point or will the properly adhered old stain need to be completely sanded off?
Remove all the peeling solid stain and then you can cover the intact stain that is not peeling with the RAD solid stain.
I have an unopened gallon of Restore-A-Deck Cedar stain that is dated 2021. Can I use that this Spring?
Yes, as long as it did not freeze. If using new RAD stain as well, mix together first.
Great! Thanks for the quick reply!
I used RAD Light Walnut Semi-Transparent stain on a new 600 plus SQ’ cedar deck. To my great dismay the snow finally melted last week, and the deck is peeling!
This is exactly what I did not want to ever see! I can live with fading color but my selection of using the RAD product was to avoid future high maintenance deck stripping.
So here is my story…
I built this crazy expensive very large cedar deck in the Fall of 2020. I let the cedar age through the winter and did the RAD prep (Cleaner/Brightener), in early August 2021. I absolutely followed all directions and thoroughly hosed off all products. On August 22nd I applied the stain using a low-pressure sprayer and soft brush pad. I used the pole mounted brush pad to be certain that I did not overapply and have pooling. I stained the cedar railings before installing the very expensive cable rail system to avoid staining the cables.
The end result looked great and met both the customers’ and my expectations.
18-months later… peeling! The deck is not used or shoveled off during the winter, so the peeling is not a result of abrasion. The deck did not see rain after applying the stain for about 20-hours. The deck is in the sun, and I did read the hot sun tips but perhaps still experienced some flash drying but I was not aware of it at the time.
Please help explain what went wrong and how I remedy the situation… I’m afraid this is going to be a ton of labor and cost. I am very detail-oriented and tried to do everything right the first time.
Please see the attached pictures throughout the process.
Thank you,
Joey K
It is normal for new wood to need a recoat about 12-18 months after the first coat. This is due to the lack of porosity for new wood, especially cedar wood. Clean and recoat. New wood tips.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
In my last picture I show the peeling that is occurring. Do I need to use the stripper first? or will the cleaner remove any loose product in preparation for a new semi-transparent application? And will the new semi-transparent RAD stain application provide a uniform finish?
I assume with the cleaning process you also need to neutralize with the brightener prior to staining.
Still, this doesn’t explain the peeling. I would not have thought with a semi-transparent product that peeling would result, only loss of color pigment over time.
Thank you.
Yes, new wood is not absorbent so that is the need for reapplying in 12-18 months and is also the reason it wore like it did.
Clean and brighten while pressure washing. No need to strip.
My deck is 1200 sq ft including 6×6 support posts. 9 year old PT yellow pine. Stained 8 years ago with Sherwin Williams Deckscapes (oil) Semi Transparent. Planning on using RAD Stripper and Brightener, before applying a non RAD solid stain (heavy sun exposure). I have some filling to do on cracks in posts and some on deck boards. Will have to sand some. Is this the correct order: Strip, Fill, Sand, Brighten, Stain?
Filles do not work well for outside wood. We should not suggest them and cracks are normal for exterior decking. No need to sand as well but if you do, do not sand finer than 60-80 grit.
Your order of steps would be correct.
Redoing an 18×22 deck… The only thing that will be old wood is the 4×4 posts.. Everything else that can be seen will be “seasoned” pressure treated pine.. The 4×4 posts have been sanded to look new… Thinking I would like to stain them before putting down the new boards since I’ll need to wait for the deck boatds to weather a few months before staining them.. What is the best process for my sanded 4×4 posts? Also, the decking has been covered and outdoors for over 6 months, how long should I wait before I stain it as well?
Weather all wood and prep and that includes the posts. Sanding is not the best way to prep as it can close the wood pores.
Follow the directions in the article. 3+ months and then prep.
Hello, I just bought an enclosed trailer with an OSB floor and interior walls. I would like to stain and seal to protect. I am not able to “weather” the inside of a trailer. Will this product work on fairly new OSB?
If it is rough cut and absorbent, it would work.
Hello, I just had a new rough sawn cedar fence installed one week ago.
1) Does it need to be prepped with products, pressure wash, or nothing at all?
2) Do I apply one coat or two coats of the semi-transparent stain for the first time?
3) For maintenance – it sounds like I need to clean and brighten in 18 months. Then one or two coats of stain?
4) Then how often do I repeat that in the future?
1. No need to prep rough sawn wood if clean and dry.
2. 2 coats for rough sawn.
3. One coat.
4. For a fence, every 3-4 years is typical.
Where do I start to treat new treated deck wood?
The above article explains weathering and prep for all new wood types.
when applying the stain, how much do you put down and do you rub it with a cloth to remove any excess?
Hello,
Instructions are on the product label under Application. See pic.
You only apply as much as the wood can fully absorb with the semi-transparent stain. Do not over-apply.
We have sanded the old solid stain off our pergola, treated mold with Concrobium, and then used Concrobium mold stain eraser, which contains peroxide, various acids/alcohol, and alkali metal carbonate (ph adjuster). All is rinsed off to remove any residue. We hope to use semi-transparent stain. After all of that:
1) Will one coat suffice?
2) Do we still need to use your cleaner and/or brightener or can we just move to staining?
Thanks!
1. Yes.
2. You need to clean and brighten after sanding.
Just completed this outdoor patio table for a friend. Made from Kiln dried Doug Fir. Just delivered it the other day and it will be on a covered patio, exposed to the elements but shaded from the sun. I told it would a few months before I can finish it with RAD Semi-Transparent Stain. We’re in California along the coast so we will have a mild winter. Should I just wait until early Spring to prep and stain the table? I did sand the table, but only with 80 grit.
Yes.
How after rain should I wait before using the cleaner, brightener, and semi-transparent stain (using all on the same day) on my 12 month old untreated deck? If it rains a lot the day before, is that too soon? Or should it have a full 24 hours (or longer?) of drying in between rain and treatment? If the weather is relevant, I’d expect it to be in the mid 50s during the day most of the time.
Does not matter when it rains. Prep works on wet decks and the stain can be applied to damp wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
In response to questions regarding RAD solid stain custom color, the answer always seems to be that it cannot be done, although it was stated that two different premixed colors could be blended (adding a little white to coastal gray to lighten it up). On the Product Data Sheet for Solid Stain, however, it is stated: Color Tinting: Restore-A-Deck Solid Color Wood Stain can be colored/tinted with any high quality, water soluble universal colorant.
Which is correct?
We do not custom mix colors, only sell stock colors. RAD Solid does not come in a base that can be custom mixed at a local paint store. You can take two stock colors and intermix them if you like. Adding compatible pigment to a stock color can be done but the outcome is hard to predict, so we do not suggest this.
I am installing new rough sawn cedar siding. It sounds like rough sawn cut wood does not need to weather. Is that correct? Can I apply RAD semi-transparent stain now to the siding or do I need to clean and brighten new wood before I stain?
You can stain rough sawn wood right away as long as it is clean and dry.
Can I put on two coats of the RAD semi-transparent stain?
Rough sawn, yes.
We used the RAD stripper, cleaner/brightener & stain last year. Neighbor is paying to have 20 year old cedar fence replaced w/PT pine on 1/3 of our fence, today. Will be moving overseas in Jan/Feb, and want to stain the new pine before leaving. We live near Nashville, TN and want to know if staining in early Jan will be ok. If so, anything other than stain needed on the new pine?
Should be fine as long as you weather, prep, and stain as explained in the article.
Hello, we are in the process of restoring our large deck. We had some bad boards replaced (redwood), and the rest of the deck sanded down. Then, we applied your cleaner and brightener to all. Now we are ready to apply the stain. However, I am just waking up to the fact that some of the boards are NEW wood, and have not been weathered, as recommended. My question: if we stain the whole deck now, then come back next year and add another coat, will that be ok for the new boards, or will the premature application of the first coat ruin the new boards for taking up the second coat next year?
Thank you!
Just prep and stain all in the Spring. Do not stain the new wood now.
Thanks so much for your prompt reply! I realize that waiting to do all the staining in the Spring would be ideal. But we would prefer to protect the old wood (30 years old!) before winter here in the Colorado foothills. Can you help me understand HOW bad it would be to stain the new wood now? Would it make it so the boards would never take the stain right or something?
I do not think we can get the crew to stain around the new boards. If we did stain the whole deck, should we strip the new boards of the RAD before cleaning and adding a new coat to the whole deck in the spring? If we did that, would we then need to let them weather for 3-6 months, after the stain is off? How much additional benefit would we gain if we did this, as opposed to just adding an additional coat to them in the spring?
Please help me understand why the wood needs to weather first– that will help me make a decision. Is it that weathering dries it out, leaving more room for the stain to penetrate?
I greatly appreciate your willingness to help with all these individual variations and concerns, and to set it up so we can read others’ posts as well. I’ve learned a lot! This is a valuable benefit of using your product.
It is not an issue to leave your older wood unstained through one Winter so the best is to prep and stain all in the Spring. If you do it now, you will end up stripping and redoing it all again in the Spring.
Can i use RAD on a 1 year old rough cut cedar deck that was originally stained with oil based stain? There are some high traffic areas where the surface looks bare and i dont want the wood to grey.
No, you have to remove the old stain when you switch stain brands.
My deck wood is 2×6 cedar. Stainless steel screws were used. It is 15 years old. It was cleaned with tsp and bleach and sealed with a light oil-based cedar tone semi-transparent stain 10 years ago. Last fall I used Restore a Deck Stripper and Brightener with a power washer. The result was the wood blotchy. My house is at the beach in Oregon. Cold weather and rains set in with fall and I determined to not move forward with the staining. Over the spring and summer, the deck turned light uniform grey. I have sanded the grey off the wood with an orbital sander so it now looks like dried cedar.
I have just finished sanding and it looks like the weather will hold for the next 10 days. Can i used the Restore a Deck stain I purchased last fall to proceed without preping with cleaner or brightener.
Yes, you can.
Deck is Yellawood flooring, rails, pickets, almost 2 years old and unstained. Cleaned in May but unable to complete project at that time and plan to do full prep. I have RAD cleaner, brightener, semi-transparent stain.
1. Any special suggestions for Yellawood? One or two coats of stain for new wood over 9 months old?
2. Several grease spots 3-7″ long under grill. Any suggestions? It will be covered up again but would like for stain to “take” in those spots if possible.
Thanks!
1. One coat.
2. Grease if deep into the wood grain will not come off with prep. You can stain over it.
What will happen if I use RAD on new pressure treated wooded benches that are only about a month old? The wood appears to be pretty dry. No telling how long it sat in the lumberyard prior.
Thanks
Dave
If you do not follow the directions for new wood then your stain could prematurely fail.
Thank you for rapid delivery of semi-transparent stain samples, which arrived today. We’re going to apply to scrap wood before the day is done. Our new second-story deck, made of pressure-treated pine, is split level; one section is 27’7″x8’10”, the other (one step down) is 16’7″ x 13′, with eleven 3’9″x11.25″ steps (with risers) and five piers 5.5″x5.5″x7’3″; vinyl rail. The front stoop is 94.5″ x 59.5″, no rail. How much cleaner, brightener, & stain should we order for the first treatment?
The deck floor was completed on 7/7/22 and the stoop on 7/21/22. Recommended 3-month weathering puts us out to October, when we won’t be able to do the work, and also too late for your 2022 stain contest. Would it be better for us to hope for good weather in November, or wait until early 2023 to order and do the process?
What is total sq footage added up? Best to prep and stain in spring.
Here’s our math for total sq footage:
horizontal deck surface (459 sq ft) x2 (top & bottom) = 918 sq ft
steps & risers (66 sq ft x2) = 132 sq ft
joists = 610 sq ft
piers = 66 sq ft
stoop = 40 sq ft
Total = 1,766 sq ft
Why are you doing the joists and posts and underneath? There is no reason to outside of appearance.
Thought we had to stain all wood, including under side of the deck, in order to protect it. We’re in northeastern Pennsylvania, which is fairly humid. Below the deck there’s bluestone patio, which is utilitarian for us, not a place where we entertain. We don’t want any more work than necessary!
No need to do it unless you want for appearance. 99% do not bother.
Good. Our revised figures are: deck surface (459 sq ft) + facing (53 sq ft) + steps (66 sq ft) + posts (66 sq ft) + front porch/stoop (40 sq ft) = Total of 684 sq ft. It appears that one RAD Semi-Transparent Wood Stain (5 gal) and Cleaner/Brightener Combo Kit can cover 750–1000 sq ft, and would be sufficient. Is that correct?
Yes, that is correct.
Thank you very much. We’ll order & use in early 2023.
I used RAD cyprus solid after prepping an old deck with RAD stripper/brightener. A second coat is recommended on horizontal surfaces. Is there a time limit on how long after the first coat that this can be applied?
Try to stain within a day or so for the second coat to avoid dirt, etc.
Can I use a Sherwin Williams deck prep with this or do I need to use this specific brand and system start to finish?
The same brand of prep for the proper results.
Just installed new cedar railing with black aluminum spindles. Is this product safe for painted aluminum? What do you advise?
Do not get the stain on your black spindles when applying. it will look messy if you do.
We have ordered several Restore a Deck products to redo our deck. As part of the project, we have to rebuilt some of the deck with new boards (could be treated or untreated). I have read the information about waiting for new boards to weather several months before staining. Is there any product that I could use during the rebuilding part to help preserve the wood before staining. That is, sealing the ends or other cut sections and the backs, edges etc. What about something like Thompson’s Water Seal or is there another product you would recommend to help seal the wood before the rebuilding prevent access to these surfaces? Or could we just use some of the stain (RAD semi-transparent dark walnut) on the ends and other cut surfaces?
No, do not apply anything to the wood during the natural weathering. No need to stain end cuts but you can if you want.
Is it better to apply the RAD semi transparent stain 2-4 hours after brightening/washing (while still damp), or to wait till the next day when it’s slightly more dry?
Either is okay: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
I have a 10 mo. old “new” cedar fence that has started to weather and gray- 140 ft. x 6 ft tall. After cleaning and brightening, how many gallons of semitransparent will I need for both sides?
About 15-20 gallons for both sides and two coats applied wet on wet.
Is any prep needed for staining new Japanese cedar (cyprus wood) fence, boards are horizontal and rough cut?
No prep is needed if rough-sawn cut and the wood is clean and free from graying.
We just stained our weathered cedar deck with RAD after cleaning and brightening. We only applied 1 coat but it looks like 2 would have been better (it weathered for 1.5 years). The 1st coat is now dry. Can I apply a 2nd coat even though not wet on wet?
Not right now. In 6-9 months you can lightly clean and apply another coat.
I am preparing to stain a new western red cedar railing made with high quality kiln dried wood. I will be using Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent and understand I need to wait a couple of months. Moisture reading is ok at this time and the trim seems ready to take the stain. Top boards have mill glaze. I figure in 4-6 weeks I will work on the mill glaze.
1. Am I correct that I use RAD cleaner (scrubbing gently) to get the glaze off?
2. And immediately then use the brightener?
3. If this causes the fuzzies I sand and then re-brighten? Is that correct?
4.How much time can elapse between this prep and the staining?
Thanks!
1. Use a pressure washer lightly after using the cleaner is the best way.
2. Yes.
3. Correct
4. For the Armstrong, wait 48 hours after prep and stain within 2 weeks of prep.
I’m afraid to pressure wash new cedar! I’ve ruined wood before. Is scrubbing not adequate for removing mill glaze? Thx.
You can scrub but much easier to use a pressure washer.
Hi! I had new porch post installed 6 months ago pressure treated pine. I was told to wait a few months to stain. I’m pretty sure they are rough cut as they are not smooth?
Do I need to prep these in any way before staining? I also had gables installed to my home 3 months ago that I plan on staining the same color. Pressure treated pine as well but the wood looks smooth. None of the wood is gray and I’m assuming I’m okay to stain? Would appreciate any advice / feedback.
Prep with this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/best-restore-a-deck-prep-products/restore-a-deck-package-300/flypage.tpl.html
Stain with this: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon/flypage.tpl.html
Does it need to be cleaned and brightened?
Yes, for best results.
I appreciate your help. I’m trying to achieve a color similar to this in the picture & I’m staining pine? I’m not sure if I should go with light walnut or dark walnut? Opinion?
Dark Walnut most likely but colors do vary based on wood type and age of the wood.
Hello – two quick questions on prep:
1) Last year I stripped/scraped/sanded badly worn solid stain from deck surface. Turned out to be a couple of coats under there – not fun. I applied a single coat of RAD grey-semi after cleaning/brightening. I will be applying a second coat to darken and even out color. After washing the first coat from last year, should I apply brightener prior to applying the second coat this year?
2) I will be doing a two tone scheme with the railings using RAD white-solid. Current railings are a mix of older semitransparent stained pressure treated wood and unstained PT wood repairs. As prep for the RAD solid stain on these railings, is it best to use brightener as well?
Even the single coat of RAD grey-semi held up well over winter and looks good. Application was easy. Very happy with the RAD products so far.
1. No need for a brightener if you have a base coat.
2. Strip and Brighten the railings.
We have an old cedar deck that was stripped and power sanded (finer than 80 grit) a year ago and want to apply your semi-transparent stain.
1. Should we still apply only one coat of stain bc it was sanded, even though a year has passed since then?
2. Also, some of the deck boards are more weathered than others due to one side being exposed to more sun. What tips do you have to ensure that the applied stain will look uniform?
1. Clean and brighten with RAD prep products first and then apply 2 coats wet on wet: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
2. Clean and Brighten all wood.
Thanks, that was an amazingly quick reply!
We built a new back deck in November of 2019 and had a roof over it built in December 2019. The contractor told us to go ahead and stain it before adding the roof and we did using the Restore-A-Deck stain. We used the cleaner and brightner then stained it. I know we should have waited for the wood to cure before staining but he insisted. The stain of course didn’t penetrate the wood and we need to restain it. What is the procedure for doing this. Do we need to clean and brighten again and then stain?
Best to strip and brighten since it never had a chance to fully soak in the first time.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
2 1/2year old cedar used RAD semitransparent after 9 months stripped and brightened first – suggestions on how to proceed- thanks! John
Use the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kit for prep before recoating.
I have a stainless steel wire railing system on my 3 year old pressure treated pine deck running through 4×4 PT posts. I used Armstrong Clark semi transparent stain on the deck and posts. The deck and posts still look pretty good, but I think it’s time for maintenance. I want to apply a second coat of the stain to the posts without cleaning and brightening but clean, brighten and re-stain the deck surface. Q1. Will your cleaner and brightener cause any harm to the stainless steel? Q2. Should I do any masking or the steel wires or of the posts where they meet the deck so I don’t get splash up and color variation from the cleaner/brightener when I stain?
You cannot apply more stain without doing the prep. You need to prep all the wood that is being stained. Prep does not harm the stainless steel.
I have a weathered deck that doesn’t appear to have ever been painted or stained. This is a south facing deck and it lives a hard life. I replaced some boards with new pressure treated wood. I need to get this deck stained this season and can’t wait months for the new boards to weather. I can handle spot repainting and color variations but don’t want to have a total failure to adhere.
What is the failure mode when applying to new wood?
It will not soak in as well and will need a recoat in less than a year. It will also stain lighter in color for the new wood.
I stripped, cleaned and stained my deck last year using all your products. I have a few green spots scattered a few places on the deck. What do I use to just spot clean these places?
Many thanks
Try a product called Wet and Forget to remove the green spots.
Our PT deck was installed last June. We won’t be able to get to our prep/staining in our Northern Minnesota location until end of May or early June. Does that fall under the “new” deck category? Will we need 1 or 2 coats of RAD semi-transparent stain after using the cleaner and brightener? Thanks for your help.
Not new since almost a year old. 2 light coats applied wet on wet: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
I have a pressure treated new dock 10 months old 170feet by 5feet
It has nothing on it and has weathered thru the winter.
I want to use the grey semi transparent
How many coats? How much product do I need? Thanks
Sorry, we did not see this question until today. 2 coats applied wet on wet. 1 Gallon should be enough.
Thanks for the awesome website! I have a few questions if your don’t mind.
1. RAD is your second best choice, above all the other oil based stains that you like?
2. When I reapply in 9 months, I don’t have to strip this water based sealer? It doesn’t create a film or anything? I just need to clean a bit, and put on a new coat?
3. I have rough sawn pickets. One side is really rough, the other is smoother, but still not perfectly smooth (see attached picts). I also have 2″x4″ that say they are rough sawn, but are smoother than the pickets. I have then in a barn, and I’m using dehumidifiers and a large fan to get the wood down to 15% moisture (since I was going to use an oil based stain). Also, the boards were really wet, so I don’t want them to dry out fast in the sun.
Questions:
a. I don’t have to weather the boards since they are rough sawn?
b. You said it was better to apply RAD to boards that are more moist, maybe even wet. Is this just because you got more coverage? Or am I degrading the process by drying out the boards?
c. Is it bad to back brush RAD in?
Thanks again! Best website I’ve found!
1. RAD is our top choice for stains.
2. No need to strip, just clean and recoat. It will last much longer than 9 months on your pickets. 2-3 years or longer.
3a. No need to weather.
3b. No, you are not degrading the boards. Applies easier to damp wood, not better coverage.
3c. No, but do it right away.
Wow! So impressed with this site. Two follow up if I may?
1. The grain is pretty high, which I like. I assume back brushing is the best. Or is pad the best? Something else? Is back brushing even necessary?
2. So there is no disadvantage to dryer wood?
I’ve been googling for a while, and this site is helped so much.
Thanks!
1. Pad or brush is fine. You do not have to back brush unless you are spraying and you have drips.
2. No.
I definitely plan in spraying. Is there a best sprayer? Is a just a hand pump pressure sprayer good enough?
Any quality pump sprayer will work: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/sprayers/chapin-clean-stain-sprayer/flypage.tpl.html
What’s the minimum temperature for application and overnight dry time?
45 degrees.
is the lowest apply temperature or the lowest for overnight/ 24 hours time frame? I was planning on doing this Saturday and daytime temps when I would do this would be 56, but the overnight low will be 30. Should I wait for another time when the temps don’t ever drop below 45?
45 is the minimum temp for application. It can drop below that at night as long as it has 4-6 hours of dry time prior. It cannot drop below freezing the first night.
My cedar fence is 4 months old, can i just pressure wash then use RAD semi-transparent stain or is it better to use the cleaner and brightener before staining.
Use the Cleaner and Brighener while pressure washing for proper prep.
I am building a deck on my home and I have sawn, kiln dried and milled white oak boards for the decking. The wood has acclimated and has an acceptable moisture content for exterior use in my region (wood is at 15-16% and I’m in the Carolinas). This wood has not been pressure treated and has been sanded to 80 grit. Reading through your installation instructions I believe I can use Restore a deck without weathering at this point but wanted to ask if I needed to prep the wood any way before staining. Also do you feel like restore a deck is the optimal choice for staining this project?
You still need to weather. It is not about moisture % but porosity. For kiln dried wood, weather for 1-2 months and then prep with the RAD Cleaner and the Brighener Kit.
I have a 5 year old PT deck that has never been sealed or stained. Do I follow “new wood” process and do only 1 coat or would it need two? Thanks!
2 coats.