Question: What type of wood is Restore-A-Deck used on?
Answer: Restore-A-Deck is safe for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, redwood, ipe, and mahogany.
Question: What is in Restore-A-Deck?
Answer: The majority ingredient in the cleaning formula is sodium percarbonate. This is the one recommended by the Western Red Cedar Lumber Association. There is also a blend of proprietary detergents that makes the cleaner work faster and more powerful than just straight sodium percarbonate cleaners. The Restore-A-Deck brightener is a blend of mild acids that is much less harsh on your wood than the straight oxalic acid. These formulas are the exact formulas we use professionally to clean and maintain decks every day. There is nothing comparable on the homeowner market.
Question: Is your product just for wood that has already been stained? My deck was just built.
Answer: Restore-A-Deck can be used for maintenance cleaning, mild stripping, or to prepare new wood for sealer. For general cleaning, you would not allow the product to sit (dwell) for a long time before rinsing. For a more aggressive action, you would let the product dwell for a longer period.
Question: How does the cost of your product compare to what I can get at my home center?
Answer: Here is the best part, it’s not only of much higher quality and more effective but in terms of time invested and harshness it’s cheaper. By focusing on product development, we are able to offer a product that works effectively and does not cause the long term damage of bleach and soap cleaners. We are not shy in saying our product is the best out there for the money. Our smallest kit makes 5 gallons of cleaner and another 5 gallons of brightener. Your cost is about 5 cents per square foot.
Question: Is your product safe for the environment? I don’t like the idea of chemicals on my deck or in my soil.
Answer: Restore-A-Deck is less abrasive to the wood than most of the products on the consumer market. Its primary ingredient is also found in OxyClean™. There are other proprietary chemicals in the formula, but all of them, once diluted with rinsing, meet all E.P.A standards for disposal and will safely drain into the soil without affecting the soil pH balance. As with the use of any type of detergent, please read the safety precautions page.
Question: Can’t I just use bleach and dish liquid on my deck?
Answer: We do not recommend you use bleach (sodium hypochlorite) on your deck. Bleach attacks the lignin in wood. Lignin is the glue that binds wood fibers together. Without enough lignin in place, wood begins to break down more quickly. In addition, bleach imparts an unnatural whitening to the wood. This shows up very prominently when you apply a pigmented sealer as blotchiness. Every lumber association recommends against the using of bleach yet 90% of cleaning products available at your local home center contain bleach.
Question: Why use any chemicals at all? Isn’t using a pressure washer by itself good enough to do the job?
Answer: In order for a pressure washer to adequately clean wood, you would need to use extreme pressure at the surface. This causes the wood to split and the grain to raise, both causing the surface to become unpleasant to walk upon. Using a proper detergent like Restore-A-Deck eliminates the need for highly pressurized water hitting the deck. You wouldn’t take a shower without using soap or shampoo, nor would you wash your dishes with just water. The detergent does the cleaning, the water acts as the rinse.
Question: Do I need to use a pressure washer if I’m using Restore-A-Deck?
Answer: While initially, we wanted a product that would not need the added scrubbing action of a pressure washer, we feel it is safer to recommend one be used but with proper technique. In many cases, Restore-A-Deck will work it’s magic and can be rinsed using some brushing and garden hose pressure. We have included a more detailed explanation page on proper pressure washer usage here.
Question: What is included in the kit. What additional tools do I need?
Answer: Your kit will include a container of the cleaning agent, a container of the brightening agent and detailed instructions. You will also need at least one pump up 3-gallon sprayer (we recommend two), safety goggles, and PVC gloves. Optional equipment may include a pressure washer and moisture meter.
Question: I used Restore-A-Deck, and it looks great! Now I want to protect the beauty and protect it from the elements. What do you recommend?
Answer: Use the Restore-A-Deck stain in a semi-transparent color for UV protection and to enhance the natural grain of the wood.
Question: I have leftover materials from your kit, should I throw them away?
Answer: No way. Restore-A-Deck’s cleaner is excellent for cleaning vinyl patio furniture, garage floors, house washing, you name it. The only time we recommend caution is around colorfast material. The brightener in your kit is also excellent for removing rust stains from concrete. Restore-A-Deck’s materials have a shelf life of one year if kept sealed and dry.
Hi I absolutely love RAD products. Our deck is at least 25+ years old. I have learned some valuable lessons cleaning and staining and now Im on the right track. last cleaning and stain was 2 years ago. Do you recommnend using the cleaner and brightner to restain or should I strip?
Pictures of current condition?
Hello,
We stained our new cedar deck/privacy wall last spring after 6 months of weathering. The cleaner was applied – this created a lot of ‘fussies’ so we did a light sand, then applied the brightener. The stain was a lot more orange then our test bottle that we got which was disappointing. But the colour improved slightly with time. We were planning on applying cleaner and a new coat of stain this year but are seeing quite a few areas were the stain has lifted off.
Is applying cleaner and the 2nd coat of stain still appropriate?
Pics?
yes sorry they didn’t attach the first time. We used the semi transparent light walnut stain
We would strip and brighten for prep to ensure an even application. By the way, stripping is no more difficult than cleaning; it just fully removes the prior coating.
Is there a reason why this happened? We are really hoping we won’t have to strip and brighten each year. Without the stripping you would be worried the stain would be absorbed unevenly?
Or would a different stain be more successful?
It was most likely due to the new wood, as it is not very absorbent. Either it did not weather long enough, or it was over-applied. When the stain (no matter the brand) fully soaks into the wood grain, it cannot wear like this. In your case, it dried on top or near the surface.
The goal is to have it even. As we mentioned, stripping is the exact same process as cleaning, just a deeper removal.
Okay thank you for your help. Does the cedar semi transparent stain have less orange undertones than the light walnut? If yes then we may consider switching to that colour.
If we strip then brighten – would you recommend applying 1 or 2 coats?
Slightly less orange, but it does depend on the wood itself.
Two light coats applied wet on wet for the floors.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application
Thank you. We may stick with the light walnut as we have lots left. Would you recommend also stripping and brightening the privacy wall to keep the stain colour even? (The privacy wall does not have any lifting of stain)
Just clean and brighten the walls.
Dear Restore a deck
We have a 3 story pressure treated pine rear deck that was stained with Restore A Deck semi transparent dark walnut stain a couple of years ago. The stain has been holding up excellently and the deck still looked great. Unfortunately we recently had a fire at our building (the porch was not affected, fire contained in basement but smoke damage all the way up).
The problem we now have is that the demo/remediation company did not protect the deck/landings/stairs of the porch whilst they conducted interior demo on all floors, using the porch to throw everything on to. Extensive demolition debris, drywall dust etc has been walked/ground into the grain of the wood. Please can you advise how best to the clean the wood, would we need to re-stain the deck after cleaning, especially if a pressure washer is needed to get the embedded demo debris out of the grain?
Thank you in advance for any help you can offer
Please reply with some pictures. You can add them in the comments.
Dear RAD Products, heres some pictures, the demo debris has been left for over 12 months now and has now been repeatedly walked into the surface by workers going in/out of the building. We tried to address this problem when it happened but due to factors beyond our control we have had to wait. Thank you for your help!
You should strip and brighten for prep and then restain. Use this kit for the prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
I just installed new cedar steps to my deck. Next I’m planning to R-A-D the deck and recoat with Armstrong Clark semi-transparent stain. (I’ve been using these products for eight years.)
What do you recommend for the new cedar steps?
New wood needs to weather for 3 or more months and then prepped with our cleaner and brightener before applying the stains.
I used Mold Armor to clean my deck and then realized it was sodium hypochlorite. Would using RAD brightener be advised to neutralize the pH and restore a more natural look? Stained the deck 2 yrs ago, so I’m really hoping to not have to stain it again this year.
It is too late. If you used the Mold Armor you will need to recoat. Do a full prep with the brightener and then recoat.
I’m using RAD on a covered dock. Will I need to apply water at any time if it doesn’t get wet from rain?
For prep or staining?
Prep. I’m trying to get rid of the mildew and algae.
Mist with water prior to applying the prep.
When I cleaned, stripped and neutralized deck……..I keep getting raised wood fibers. Am I doing something wrong ? How do I prevent getting raised wood fibers when getting the deck ready before staining ?
This can happen from over stripping or from a heavily gray/oxidized deck. See this for tips and explanation:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
My 12×12 cedar deck is only 1year 9months old. (stained when new and again a year ago with Ready Seal , one coat) This year, I used the cleaner, and brightener/neutralizer, sprayed on and then scrubbed with Bristol broom. I had a residue of old stain on several boards, plus many many fiber fuzzies. The next day, I went back and used 1 cup of the restore a deck stripper and 2 oz of restore a deck additive mixed with 1 1/2 gallons of water and used a broom to apply. came back with brightner/neutralizer sprayed on…….old stain removed, and still had fuzzies, but a lot less. Lightly sanded the fuzzies off before staining.
You should be good now to stain.
Do I need to use the wood brightener before staining my deck with solid stain?
You need to use the brightener after using the cleaner or stripper to neutralize.
How long is the shelf life for semi-transparent stains?
Opened about 12 months. Unopened, about 3 years.
Because of repairs my deck (redwood) is a mixture of old, previously stained/sealed boards and new, never treated boards. Should I use the cleaner or the stripper for the initial step?
Post some pics.
Using your product and its been very good. Question; did I need to use a sealer after applying the your stain? If so, what sealer do you recommend?
No need and you cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain, it would peel.
I have wood railing with aluminum balusters supported with plastic caps securing them in place (black colored, coated), will your product affect the metal, plastic and the coating?
It should not but always test spot first.
Does the stain include a sealer or do we need to seal after staining.
Deck stains are sealers. You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain, it would peel.
After using the cleaner and brightener as directed on the package, including a thorough rinsing with a pressure washer after each step, I noticed my pressure treated deck boards (two years old, never stained) are turning a green hue. It has only been two days (no rain, plenty of sun), so it shouldn’t be mold/mildew. Initially the boards looked wonderful. Any idea why this happened and what can be done? Thanks in advance for your help.
That is coming from inside the wood. It is treated wood and the chemical used to treat internally is green.
There is nothing you can do to remove it.
Thank you. The deck is two years old and was a weathered gray that looked great after I used the cleaner. It wasn’t until after I used the brightener a few days later that it turned green. Attached are the “before” pics taken immediately before brightener was applied. Is there something about the brightener that opens the wood to release the green?
No, there is nothing about the brightener that would cause this. It is not an issue as you will not even notice it after staining and it fully cures.
How bad would it be to split up the cleaning process into multiple days? The deck is too big to finish so I cleaned smaller sections, applying the cleaner then pressure washing it off. Will it be okay to finish the rest of the sections the next day or will it cause it to look uneven?
It would be fine but brighten all at once when done cleaninig.
I have used your semi-transparent stain two times over the past five years on treated pine. It’s time to stain again. There is a modest amount of stain remaining. Do I need to remove this stain, or just clean and brighten? I live in the high desert of New Mexico, where the problem is not mildew but is intense UV.
Clean and brighten while pressure washing should be sufficient.
I just finished applying your natural semi-transparent stain to my deck, it looks great. Before I begin reusing the deck, I just wanted to make sure: Will this stain provide me sufficient protection from water penetration or should I apply a separate waterproofing sealer? Thanks.
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain as it would peel if you did. No need.
Hi, i just used the deck cleaner and brightener on my wood per the instructions on the packages. after the wood dried it seems like it has left a sort of grey film on the wood. its not furred, but the film is pretty stubborn to get off. any suggestions?
You did not remove the oxidation fully. Redo using the cleaner and pressure washing and then brighen after.
Do I need to use cleaner and brightener every time I ?
When recoating, yes.
I have a mix of new deck boards(never been stained) and old ones(several years of staining w/ROD). I plan to sand the entire surface and then proceed with the Cleaner and go from there. What is the maximum amount of time I should allow between sanding and applying the Cleaner? …and are there any other items I should consider?
See this for your new wood.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
After the weathering, prep with a deck cleaner all the wood, and then the wood brightener. No need to sand but if you want, do it after the cleaner and before the brightner.
I did the full RAD 1-2-3 treatment on my 12×20 cedar deck in 2021, after it had weathered for a year. Now, 2 years later, I want to clean, brighten, and recoat it with the left over RAD materials from 2021. It’s been raining often for two weeks. Q1. Can I start the RAD 1-2-3. process as soon as the rain stops, or should I wait for the deck to dry out? Q2. See photo showing one board under the roof drip line where weathering was worse. The steps have similar wear. I suppose cleaning will have to be more aggressive there – correct?
I live in Ottawa, ON, Canada.
Let it dry out so it is not soaking wet. Prep all wood well and then recoat.
I waited a couple of days after the rain ended. Cleaned Saturday, brightened Sunday, stained railings Monday and floor on Wednesday when the weather warmed up again.
Looks great!
No, you need a full cleaning when recoating. Use the RAD Cleaner. You can mix it at 1/2 strength.
Will stripper hurt stamped concrete pergola sits on?
No.
I have an older cedar deck 31 yrs. or so, recently painted 2019 with Kilz Over Armor textured, Redwood color. Is peeling off and needs to be re-stained. How do I go about getting the wood ready for this? Or should we start over with fresh wood?
You would have to sand this all off to fix.
Is this done after cleaning/brightening or before? Are the boards even worth saving? some are cracked and warped.
Sand it all off first or replace the wood is correct.
Can left over brightener be stored in the the sprayer? If so, for how long?
A couple of weeks.
I have a new pressure treated pine deck 16 x 8 under a roof and protected from the element with plastic curtains. It is 6 weeks old. Do I need to Clean and Brighten the deck before I use the semi-transparent stain?
See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
Thank you for answering so quickly, but that doesn’t answer my question. I read that before I asked. It is new wood and will not be subjected to the elements because it is covered with a roof and plastic curtains. It is not dirty or stained and hasn’t been walked on so it doesn’t need cleaning or brightening. It has been drying in 85- 90 degree heat for 6 weeks. Will the stain absorb without doing step #1 or step #2?
Actually yes, it does answer the question. You have to wait for 3 months or more to weather and then prep, just like the article states. You cannot stain it after 6 weeks and yes you must prep. Does not matter if covered.
My 12-15 year old deck has a floor of Pressure Treated pine tongue and groove. Behr stain was used on it in 2008. I belt sanded it 2 days ago. Current photos attached. We want to use one of your solid stain products but need your advice on how to proceed to do this correctly.
Make sure all wood is clean and any peeling stain is removed. You can then apply the RAD Solid Stain over the Behr stain that is intact and not peeling.
Do we need to use your Stripper and/or Brightener (with or without additives) first?
If you have peeling stain that still needs to be removed then yes.
Two questions…I did a first coat last summer on new wood and would like to apply a second coat this year. I have leftover cedar stain from last year and will need to order additional stain. Is the stain from last year still good? Secondly, I will apply the deck wash beforehand, but do I need to do the wood brightner too? Thanks for your help…
Stain that is opened has a shelf life of about 12 months. Unopened for about 36 months. It cannot freeze.
Yes on the Brightener.
I finished staining our deck and we love the results. What cleaner or solvent do I use to remove the overspray I got on the tin roof when I sprayed the beams?
Thanks, Les
Try Goof Off.
I followed all the steps as you described, but after staining the flooring I would like it to be darker. Can I do a second coat a couple of days after I did the first coat.
No, it will not take now. Second coats have to be applied wet on wet: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
You can prep and redo in the Spring with a darker color.
I’m about to apply RAD semitransparent stain on an 18 month old Pressure Treated deck once I sand, clean and brighten. I did a few samples using a pre-stain conditioner and it looks great. My question is given the stain is water based should I use water based pre- stain conditioner or oil based? Seems oil pre-conditioner is recommended for exterior and water base for interior yet it is also recommended to use the same base for both pre-conditioner and stain.
You cannot use a preconditioner with our stain or any penetrating exterior deck stain.
Will that cause it to fail or not seal? It looks so good with the pre-conditioner.
It will not soak in and cure correctly, leading to premature failure.
Bummer, I guess it will have to be blotchy pine stain. Thanks for the tip before I apply it.
Most likley that will not be enough pressure.
Is the coverage estimate for the semi-transparent stain (100-200sq/ft) for 1 coat or 2?
One coat. It averages about 100 Sq feet per gallon for the two coats applied wet on wet.
Post some pictures here.
I cleaned, brightened (RAD) and stained (Armstrong-Clark semi tran cedar) 2 weeks ago. I did not do the spindles – on purpose, my wife doesn’t want me on a ladder. Now the spindles really look dirty with some clean areas on them. Question: Can I apply cleaner to spindles and power wash off without affecting the deck boards and handrails OR am I stuck with just power washing?
No, it may harm the stain now on the floors if you use the prep products.
Can I clean and brighten the deck one day and stain it the next day?
Yes.
I stripped and brightened pressure-treated pine deck 1 yr ago and stained with RAD semi-transparent stain. Half of deck is covered and other half exposed to sun most of day. Exposed deck looks like it needs another coat of stain – covered area maybe okay but I would have to stain whole deck since there is no way to separate the areas. I have power washed deck and it looks clean (did not use cleaner). Do I still have to apply brightener or can I stain it without brightener. Assume I should apply only one coat of stain.
You do not need the brightener in this case. You can add one coat of the stain.
Resulted in blotchy white patches over entire deck. With it stain up ok?
We would need to see pictures.
We are in the rainiest county in the continental US and the 12 month old cypress unfinished deck was very mildewed. First We used Jomax because it cleans the house mildew well but it didn’t get the black stripes off. Then we used your cleaner and it was still full of black areas so we used a chlorine mix per can instructions and scrubber brush and rinsed very well….like 2 hours with the pressure washer to get the soapiness off, then the brightener and final rinse.There is some fuzziness and a lot of wood pulp came off but we had to get the blackness off.Any help appreciated. I just don’t want a blotchy finish. I think it was because it was unfinished wood sitting in the wettest year we’ve ever had…2020. Hopefully with some TWP sealer protection we can stay on top of the black mildew.
Might want to go over it one more time with the RAD Cleaner and the Brightener to remove some more of the white oxidation. This typically does not show when stained.
We are currently cleaning, brightening and staining our new deck round #2. The first time around (October 2020) we followed this process after letting our kiln-dried cedar weather for a month. We were pressed for time because nights were already getting down in the 30s. The stain did not hold up well. In round #2 the cleaner is removing the original stain. Is it supposed to? If not, what do you think happened?
Removing it is fine. This will allow the new coating to soak in deeper. Make sure to not over apply the stain.
It’s done now but I would like to figure out what happened for next time. My husband showed me where the cleaner was removing the old stain prior to hitting it with the pressure washer. Because of this he felt he needed to get really aggressive with the pressure washer, even though I told him not to, and really did a number on our brand new cedar. So we know next time, is the cleaner supposed to remove the original stain? Are you saying that it was peeling off with the cleaner because it was applied too heavy the first time?
It can remove the old stain if the older stain was over applied.
I have to laugh because he said I applied it too light this time yet apparently he over-applied it the first time. It does make me nervous to use the cleaner again. It was removing the old stain in strips and would have looked terrible if we didn’t remove it all. Not sure if we should used the stripper at that point.
I am in question as to what I need to do my deck. It has been previously done with Semi Transparent cedar natural tome Olympic fence snd deck treatment. I did not get it done last year. What kit would you recommend to use to strip,clean and stain with your product and additives if needed. The deck is 12 x 12 and six steps total. We are doing just the deck and steps not the railings. I would like to use your Semi Transparent Cedar Tone Natural. I am not sure what size kit to use. I will include pictures of my deck. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.
The RAD Stripper with both additives for prep and then the RAD Brightener. One of all 4 of these: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Stain-Stripper.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Brightener-Only.html
Hello, In reference to the FAQ above .. “I used Restore-A-Deck …..Now I want to seal in the beauty…what do you recommend?” The answer states “pick a quality sealer from a reputable dealer….we suggest Woodrich Timber Oil….” My questions: sealers and semi trans stains are two different things correct? I don’t see just a “Sealer” on Woodrich.. they do make mention of a page with stains and sealers… it seems to be the same thing , a stain and sealer. Isn’t Restore-A-Deck trans stain a stain and sealer? Bottom line while I did purchase a trans stain cedar color my preference is a “clear” product so I get nothing but the natural beauty of the wood. I do not see such a product “clear” on your site or Woodrich. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
All deck stains are sealers as well. Clear will not give UV protection. You must use a stain. We will update this part of the article.
I have a deck that has old semi transparent stains on parts of it, grey areas in other parts. I want to clean it up in the next week, but will not be able to put your semi transparent stain on it until possibly June.I am planning to use your stripper but am not sure if I use the brightener since it will be about 1-2 months before I can stain it.
You will have to redo the prep if you wait 1-2 months to stain with the cleaner and the brightener. Brightener after the stripping is done now.
Before I wash and strip my deck using your product, do I need to protect the pained metal railing? What about limestone around pool?
It should not harm either but always do a test spot first.
I used the restore a deck system (semi-transparent walnut latex) on my dock and front stairs in Central Florida about a year ago. PT Pine construction. I have green algae on some shaded parts of the dock decking and drip line of front steps. I need to safely clean algae and re-coat deck boards and horizontal steps from use. Please advise.
Prep with this and then apply one coat: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Cleaner-Only.html
Since we have had unseasonably warm weather I made the mistake of getting eager and stripped and sealed the steps going up to my deck. They look great. I now realize there is going to be a big problem with ruining the stairs when I deal with the deck itself and have to rinse off the Restore-A-Deck. The obvious answer would be to cover everything with heavy plastic, but it still seems to me unlikely that I can avoid run-off on the steps. Is there any professional trick for this situation? (Probably not, since a professional wouldn’t be so dumb!) Thanks.
No tricks will work, sorry.
Close-up of droplets
Not sure what that is but it is not coming from the stain. There is nothing in the stain that would cause this to happen. Looks like something is leaching out of the wood? Does it wipe or scrub off?
On the upper deck I hosed it off which caused the stain to appear blotchy. I put a second coat on that deck and it looks fine. I started the lower deck (the photo with the blue droplets) yesterday and did not get to finish. This morning the droplets were on the lower deck but I just left them alone and they seem to have evaporated and the boards look fine. New question; can I put a second coat on if the stain has dried overnight?
No, once cured and dried you cannot apply a second coat as it will not take.
Again one did not post. This one shows some of the blotchy area.
Some of the photos did not post.
I have a question concerning the finished stained boards. The cedar boards on this top deck were put down in late April and May. They had been purchased two years prior but had been covered and protected. I used the RAD cleaner according to package directions using a sprayer and a stiff broom. Waited the appropriate time, then rinsed well. I applied the brightner according to the package directions, waiting approx. 15+ minutes. Rinsed until I no longer saw any bubbles. It was late in the day by then so I waited until the next day to stain. As you can see by the photos I have a lot of block wall along the deck so I chose to use a 3″ brush to stain with. Took about 3 hours but it went well. The next morning there was dew on the decks ( our days in the Portland, OR area have been mid-70’s & night mid-50’s ). The stained deck also had droplets of a blueish nature on portions of the deck. I rinsed the deck down but as you can see from the photos it has left patchy areas. I am now going to do the lower deck. Yesterday I cleaned, used brightner, and rinsed very well. This morning I rinsed the deck again very well. I am waiting about three hours until I start staining the damp deck. Any suggestions.
Here are photos of the blueish droplets.
It is Anne Again, The deck is so slick that you really cant walk on it without sliding. It is still wet.