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Armstrong-Clark Company Wood Stains
Armstrong’s deck and siding wood stain has nondrying conditioning oils that separate from the drying side of the formula. These oils penetrate deep into the deck or siding wood fiber where the wood’s natural oils used to be. This process rejuvenates the wood. The drying oils stay at the surface, lock in the conditioning oils and create a dry to the touch barrier. Armstrong’s deck and siding wood stain formulas also contain vegetable oils, transparent oxide pigments, water repellents, mildewcide and solvent.
Quality is what Armstrong-Clark brings to you. Backed by five generations of oil based coatings experience, coupled with modern technology, Armstrong-Clark can meet and exceed your need for oil based wood coatings.
- Can be applied in direct sunlight and heat of day. If the first coat penetrates within 30 minutes a second coat can be applied for extra protection.
- Easily applied by brush, roller, garden sprayer or airless spray equipment.
When spraying – back-rolling or brushing will help even out appearance. If there are any puddles or glossy spots after 24 hours, remove with dry rag.
- Non-drying oils penetrate deep to recondition older wood.
- Drying oils, pigments and water repellents protect against water and UV damage and lock in the nondrying oils.
- Complies with all government environmental standards.
- No offensive odor.
Armstrong-Clark Wood Deck Stain applies at about 150-200 feet per gallon. Actual coverage varies depending on wood porosity.
I am planning to clean and brighten deck and reapply my Armstrong semi transparent deck stain. Does the deck have to be dry to apply the stain?
Yes. 48 hours after prep or rain.
I have wood siding in New England that was installed ~20 years ago by the former owner. I believe it is smooth, clear cedar but no idea what the coating was and I doubt if there has been much if any maintenance done over the years.
I attempted to clean a few test sections using oxygen bleach (Stain Solver – we have mature plants near but not touching the siding that I want to avoid damaging). I used a medium/soft brush after 15 minutes and garden hose to rinse (not a pressure washer). The grime easily came off along with what was left of the old coating I think. For the heavy sun exposed test section it has a rougher feel where some of the UV damaged wood came off but it isn’t too bad but probably would look better if sanded. In the shady test spot it remained smooth (most of the house is shaded by trees so I suspect this will be 70% of what I will experience). I can smell the cedar up close after cleaning.
I was thinking of sealing using Armstrong Clark Semi transparent and testing a few colors to see what looks nice once I prep the test sections. My understanding is it is easier to reapply coats as needed later to maintain the appearance with that stain.
Any recommendations on how to proceed given I don’t know what was on it before? Can I continue to use the oxygen bleach to clean given that seems to work well, and then RAD brightener and then stain?
Or do you think there would be benefit to using the RAD stripper instead of oxygen bleach going forward (without damaging the plants)? Or do I need to sand all sections using 60 grit and then brighten since I don’t know what the prior stain was last used 10-20 years before?
I would like to take the time to do it right so that the wood is protected and looks nice but avoid doing extra steps or risk damaging plants if it doesn’t matter. Thanks!
It should be stripped and then brightened for prep.
Here are the pictures; starting condition and sanding progress (or lack there of).
You have a lot of old stain build up. Best to use the RAD Stripper with both additives and pressure washing to remove as much as possible. If you can strip all off then sand after. Brightener would be last.
Very disappointed and now concerned if your products will work for my project. Applied stripper with both additives as instructed and pressure washed most of the weekend. The stripper did take more of the stain off but not nearly all … not even close. (Followed instructions to the letter). Plus, it turned mahogany color while working and then actually darkened the clean wood, almost like retaining it. Finally, it caused the sanded wood to swell and crack. I knew the water and extended dwell would cause this somewhat but not to this extent. Now what???
The stripper is designed to darken the wood and raise the pH balance. That is why you must neutralize after with the Brightener to lower the pH balance of the wood and restore the color. Have you used the brightener yet as the directions state?
The stripper does not cause wood to swell and crack, only water would do this.
I have not used the Brightener yet as your instructions were to strip, then sand, then brighten. But the concern is still the amount of stain still on the wood. I tried to upload photos without success. But explanation should be enough … if you saw it you’d say “yup, still a lot of stain left”. I’d say the striper took off maybe 20%.
Reduce picture size and upload.
Just to make sure, did you let the stripper dwell for 45-60 minutes before pressure washing off?
Actually much more. But not exactly on purpose. When nothing was coming off i ran out to rent a 3300 psi sprayer in hopes that would work faster. That took an hour. My sons kept it wet during which I’m sure contributed to the swelling. Some sections saw the stripper for 2 or 3 hours or more.
When that happens then the old stain is on the wood like paint. This means the multiple coatings through the years have built up to the point that a stripper is not as effective. Strippers can have issues fully removing paints or excessively over-applied coatings. For a stripper to work it has to soak through or get under the old coating, softening the bond between the coating and the wood.
There are not any deck strippers on the market that are stronger than the RAD with additives. You can try again (if you have some left) with the stripper to see if more comes off as it is possible that you waited too long while getting the pressure washer. BTW, a pressure washer is definitely needed for this job.
If that does not work then you might want to rent a drum sander like you use for hardwood floors if you go this route. Your screws are counter sunk so it should not be an issue.
Pics are switched … after is the darker one.
This past winter my sikkens finish on my Mahogany deck gave up the ghost. I have ordered the Strip & Brighten combo w/ the Mahogany hardwood stain. I’ve tried to attach pics of the starting condition and of my sanding progress after about 7 hours with the deck sander. Only about 1/3 finished and certainly not down to the wood.
Question is 1)how much will the stripper remove of this Sikkens (probably a dozen coats over 17 years!) And 2) thinking sand, strip, power wash, brighten, (sand again?), and stain. Is this correct??
We will need to see pics posted.
Planning to stain a few IPE decks & stairs – total 900/1000sq ft to cover.
First planning to use RAD stripper & brightener and rinse off with scrubbing brush & garden hose. Will this be enough to fully prep for staining or would pressure wash be needed too? What about sanding?
Decks are greyed out with mildew area since stained done over a year ago so not much color left just dirty from mildew & ocean salt weather etc.
For staining, read good on AC stain in mahogany or black walnut for IPE decks. Would apply with stain pad. Is 1 coat enough or 2 coats ok until desired color achieved?
Mahogany seems to be closest color. Wipe excess is only if needed?
What quantity of products should I order? And if any products is left can it be reused next year if cans are protected etc?
pictures shows decks & stairs to stain.
Thanks in advance for the great help!
Best to use a pressure washer while using the stripper. Brighten after. One coat is needed for hardwoods like IPE. Do not wipe off right away an excess. Only do this after it has not fully absorbed after an hour. Shelf life is about 12 months if stored correctly after opening.
Can AC Amber and Mahogany for Ipe be mixed to get an in between color?
I prepped our mahogany deck yesterday using the RAD stripper and brightener kit. Planning to stain using AC mahogany stain. Sounds like I need to wait 48 hours before applying stain to allow deck to dry? Any other tips? I just happened to catch that in the comments here. Is there a tips and tricks site for staining?
48 hours is correct.
Thanks! How about wiping excess off? Should I wait an hour to wipe down stain?
Only if needed.
I have prepped deck for staining. Using ac semi solid. I have read conflicting info on how to best stain. What is best practice? Tu
Stain pad or brush is best.
Thank you, start with pad and then use the brush? Can you back over the stain with the brush?
Best practice to mix my five gallons?
Use either or. You do not need to brush in after a pad. Just use either to apply evenly.
Tx. Best way to stir/mix my 5 gallon stain container?
Remove top completely and then use a 5-gallon paddle mixer on your drill. You can get these at any hardware store.
I have an outdoor table that I made 3 years ago from Ipe. I coated it with Armstrong Clark Amber 3 years ago. After 3 years in the sun, it was time to re-stain it. I hit it with Restore-A-Deck stain stripper and then brightener. After waiting an hour or two I stained it with the same can of Armstrong Clark Amber. My problem is that I forgot to wipe off the stain, and now after several days of drying, it looks tacky and like it has fur. What would you suggest I do to fix this at this point?
You cannot apply AC 1-2 hours after prep. It has to dry for 48 hours after prep. You will need to strip it off and start over as it will probably not cure now.
My apologies. I waited 48 hours. I should have said that instead of “an hour or two”. Can I just apply a light coat now and then wipe immediately?
Light coat and wipe after an hour, not right away.
How much would shipping be for 5 one-gallon cans? I know it’s free shipping on 5 gallon container but too heavy to pour.
Add all to cart and enter your shipping info. It will update with the cost.
Sorry, but there is not a way to darken it.
I stained my new deck last year with transparent natural tone. I waited three months before using restore a deck kit and staining. After the winter my deck was really dirty I guess it’s black mildew (see attached photo). All the horizontal surfaces on my fencing was the same. I have now cleaned my deck and fencing ready for a second coat which I intend doing a wet on wet coat. I believe the deck was dirty due to the fact that the stain did not allow any water to absorb into the wood. My question is, will I see this dirt after every winter and require to clean every year.
Hard to say but in general, it is not possible for a deck stain to prevent dirt from laying on top of the stain.
After reading a whole combination of reviews I went with Armstrong Clark Mahogany for my 18-year-old mahogany deck. I went to the company website and ordered a sample can to test for color. Liked it and the way it went on so ordered a 5lb can. Stripped old Cabots stain (Cabots actually worked quite well but wanted to try something else to see if it would last longer and also because AC is said to be able to just put on a fresh coat each year with little preparation) using RAD stripper and brightener. Then decided I wanted to sand it down to smooth out some areas and flatten some boards which had slightly curled over 18 years. Brightened again after sanding. (not sure if that was necessary but it looked awesome after I did it. Applied Armstong Clark with a combination of brush and pad. Went on very smooth (I recommend Cabots stain pad over the Amazon highly-rated Shurline pad, WAAAY better). I started at 6 am but as always the cutting and brush work took way longer than anticipated so I was still working at noon when it was scorching sun and over 92 degrees. Saw zero difference in application ability from 70 degrees in shade to 92 degrees and full sun. Thought it was going to dry much darker than I hoped as it darkened within minutes but actually settled into a very nice color with individual mahogany boards keeping their own character. Pouring rain today and very happy to see water beading as if the deck was made of plastic. This with only one thin coat. Will update this review in one year when I see how it holds up from a weathering standpoint. My deck is almost full sun from sunrise to sunset.
How long should I wait to stain a new deck that was built with KDAT (Yella) wood? I am reading that when the water does not bead up, and then to use a cleaner/brightener…is that correct?
Wait 1-2 months and then use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener Kits for the prep. Just one coat of stain.
I have 13 x 15 (197 sq ft) deck area + the railing and spindles around. Can I make do with one gallon? Also, do I need 2 coats or just one? I am thinking of semi-solid stain.
By the way, I just purchased your stripper + brightener kit.
One coat. Most likely 2 or even 3 gallons.
[quote name=”Bo Hica”]Can Armstrong Clark Semi-transparent stain be applied to new cedar deck and railing? If not, how long should I wait?[/quote]
Armstrong suggests that new wood weather for about 3 months. Prep after the wait with the Restore A Deck Cleaner/Brightener Kits.
Can Armstrong Clark Semi-transparent stain be applied to new cedar deck and railing? If not, how long should I wait?
[quote name=”Rujaecandado”]How long will a partially used can of stain last?[/quote]
Depends on how ell you store it and if the lid is 100% closed or not. It needs to be stored in a temperature controlled room. 12 months is shelf life but you may get longer if stored correctly.
How long will a partially used can of stain last?
[quote name=”Gingercat92″]I ordered the natural oak stain and your information on the website says that it can be applied with a garden sprayer. Information on the can says to NOT use a garden sprayer. Could you clarify this, please?[/quote]
It can be applied with a good quality garden sprayer. It will need to be back brushed to ensure is evenly applied.
I ordered the natural oak stain and your information on the website says that it can be applied with a garden sprayer. Information on the can says to NOT use a garden sprayer. Could you clarify this, please?
[quote name=”anelso86″]I purchased two gallons of A-C stain about 18 months ago. I ended up only opening and using 1 gallon. The other has sat unopened in my basement since I purchased it. I’m planning to use R-A-D cleaner and brightener and then re-staining the deck with A-C. Can I use this unopened can that I purchased 18 months ago?[/quote]
As long as it was not opened and it did not freeze, then it should be good. Stir well as it does settle.
I purchased two gallons of A-C stain about 18 months ago. I ended up only opening and using 1 gallon. The other has sat unopened in my basement since I purchased it. I’m planning to use R-A-D cleaner and brightener and then re-staining the deck with A-C. Can I use this unopened can that I purchased 18 months ago?
[quote name=”Linda”]I bought the stain in Amber and already applied it to my deck which is softwood. I read on the Armstrong Clark website that this specific stain colour is made for hardwood. How will this affect my deck?[/quote]
You can use the Amber on all wood types. No issues.
I bought the stain in Amber and already applied it to my deck which is softwood. I read on the Armstrong Clark website that this specific stain colour is made for hardwood. How will this affect my deck?
[quote name=”Shelly”]Is the transparent stain considered a type of timber oil? Can I re-coat every year with just a soap and water scrub down as prep? No stripping needed?[/quote]
AC is oil based. You can clean and reapply as needed. Use a deck cleaner as prep.
Is the transparent stain considered a type of timber oil? Can I re-coat every year with just a soap and water scrub down as prep? No stripping needed?
[quote name=”R Buford”]Currently have Cabot Australian Timber Oil in Mahogany Flame on a pressure treated pine deck. It is very difficult to find and have read some negative reviews online esp with the move to the water base formula. I plan on stripping the deck with RAD Stripper, then using the brightener, then reapplying stain. The ATO has held up well on the spindles, not so great on the deck boards, railings, and stairs. Is the Armstrong Mahogany close enough in color to the Cabot ATO Mahogany Flame?[/quote]
Is is very similar but not exact.
Currently have Cabot Australian Timber Oil in Mahogany Flame on a pressure treated pine deck. It is very difficult to find and have read some negative reviews online esp with the move to the water base formula. I plan on stripping the deck with RAD Stripper, then using the brightener, then reapplying stain. The ATO has held up well on the spindles, not so great on the deck boards, railings, and stairs. Is the Armstrong Mahogany close enough in color to the Cabot ATO Mahogany Flame?