Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit
Our kit provides enough product to clean and then brighten an average 25’x12′ deck with rails and 3 steps (600-800 total sq.feet). For, a fence this package will clean and then brighten both sides of 50 feet of fence.
You will receive 1 container of RAD Step 1 Wood Cleaner and 1 container of RAD Step 2 Wood Brightener.
RAD STEP 1 WOOD DECK CLEANER DESCRIPTION
Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner is a powdered concentrate that is mixed with water. It safely cleans and restores the natural beauty of exterior wood. This product also cleans weathered composite lumber, removing mold, mildew, and algae along with the silver-gray color that can develop over time. Restores all wood surfaces to their original appearance Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner will not harm wood fibers, pets, grass, or most plants. Restore-a-Deck Step 1 Wood Cleaner is not a stain stripper or remover of old stains. Please see Restore-A-Deck Stripper if you are trying to remove a semi-transparent stain.
*This product is Step 1 Cleaner of the Restore A Deck system.
RAD STEP 2 WOOD BRIGHTENER DESCRIPTION
Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that is mixed with water to brighten and restore the natural beauty of all species of exterior wood. This product excels at brightening, removing rust stains, and tannin stains caused by fallen leaves. Restore-A-Deck Wood Brightener is a safe, product that will not only brighten but neutralize the surface of the wood, creating an ideal surface that is ready to be stained.
*This product is step 2 Wood Brightener of the Restore A Deck system.
RAD CLEANER AND BRIGHTENER ADVANTAGES
- #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Cleaner and Wood Brightener
- RAD Wood Cleaner is designed specifically for all Exterior Wood and Composite Decking
- RAD Wood Cleaner Preps new wood, weathered wood, and maintenance coats
- RAD Wood Brightener neutralizes stain strippers
- RAD Wood Brightener brightens and restores wood surfaces
- RAD Wood Brightener restore pH balance of wood
- Powdered formulas makes 5 liquid gallons when mixed
- Extremely cost effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon
- Eco-Safe formulas
- Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
I used the cleaner and brightener kit and then used your stain and my very large deck turned out the best it has ever looked. I live in Southern California and in all good conscience cannot use as much water as is needed to clean and brighten my deck again per the instructions. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
No, you need water to properly do it.
I should have specified that I can’t rinse the brightener for 1/2 an hour for each section of the deck that I do. Can I use a more diluted solution of the cleaner and the brightener and then use less water to rinse? I understand that I will not get as good of a result.
No, you still need water to rinse properly.
We previously used a stripper (2 months ago). Today we decided to sand fully to take off all the old stain. What prep is needed before using your stains? Thanks so much!
RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit for final prep.
Thank you so much!
It says the Restore a Deck cleaner can be used on Composite decking? Does that mean I can clean my composite decking on a regular (every other year) basis with it? And while I am cleaning and brightening the new wood for staining, will getting any of the cleaner or brightener damage the composite decking?
You can use the cleaner on composite decking and no, the cleaner or brightener does not damage composite decking.
How long will unopened, unmixed Cleaner and Brightener last?
2-3 years, probably longer.
I have an old wood deck that has some newly replaced boards that are not stained. The old boards are a purple solid color and have some mildew on them. I am planning to use the Gray solid stain over the entire deck, can I just use the cleaner and the brightener or do I need to use the stripper for the old purple paint?
Clean and brighten will work. Make sure none of the old solid stain is peeling prior to applying the RAD Solid stain.
Is your Chapin sprayer the Chapin 2 gallon 26021XP Compression Sprayer
No. Model 25020 for the 2-gallon sprayer.
In W WA I have an 18-yr old fir deck that has never been finished. I scrub-brushed with only water ¼ of it on the N side 3 months ago because the algae made it very slippery. I plan to scrub-brush the remaining deck surface (deck is 430 sf with a painted metal railing), use your R-a-D Pkg 300, then stain with Armstrong Clark semi-solid stain.
1. Can I apply the cleaner and the brightener with a scrub brush?
2. Once the cleaner or brightener is mixed with water, is it active for only a given period of time?
This Old House: “Skip the pressure-washer when it’s time to clean a wood deck; it can really damage the wood fibers. Instead, use a pump sprayer to apply a bleach-free deck cleaner, scrub the wet boards with a long-handle brush, then wash off the grime with a garden hose,” says Tom Silva, TOH General Contractor.
3. Would this method work for the cleaner or the brightener?
4. If not, what is the minimum acceptable water pressure to use after cleaning and after brightening?
5. Does pressure washing after cleaning and again after brightening, every 2-3 years damage the wood?
Thanks for answering all our questions.
1. Apply with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off.2. Cleaner is good for a few hours after being mixed. Brightener lasts weeks after being mixed. 3. Pressure washing is the best and easiest way to do it. It can be scrubbed and rinsed but it will take much longer. Tom really does not know that much about how deck cleaners work.4. 1200-1500 psi works well. 5. No. Damage happens when someone uses too much pressure and does not use proper prepping materials.
Hi. First timer, looking to redo deck on new house. Is this kit better or the other one? Deck about 23×12.
Also do you have smaller stain packages than 5 gallons? I think I need 2 gallons for this size + railings (1 side of railing is about 8 feet up)
Also do you recommend solid or semi transparent. I like Dark Walnut and expresso. HoA only allows for natural wood colors and stains.
Restore-A-Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit
You already have a solid stain so you will need the RAD Solid stain to cover it unless you want to sand it all off. Go with Espresso. Prep with the stripper kit to remove the loose stain. You can cover the intact stain after.
Okay, is brown oak possible also?
Stripper + Brightener (I think I can do this in 1 day), then patch a few holes with stainable wood filler (or is this before?),
Then next day 1 coat of stain on railings/2 coats wet on wet application on horizontal?
What do you suggest I do with extra stain/product?
You can use any solid stain color that you like. Solid stain is not coated wet on wet. First coat most fully dry first. Store product where it cannot freeze.
We have a deck that is about 12x 25. It is mostly about 20 years old a third of it was replaced about 5 years ago. It was stained 7 years ago and the new never was stained. There is very little visible stain left on what was done. Should I use a solid or semi transparent? Some of the new wood is beginning to deteriorate And what prep would be needed?
Reply back with some pictures for help.
We are planning on using your white stain for the rails (vertical portion) and your cottage gray on the deck floor. Is it ok to use the green painters tape to tape of the floor section prior to painting the vertical rails, not sure if it leaves behind something that would interfere with the stain on the deck floor. Thank you!
It should be fine.
These failed to load
Most likely this will not show when stained.
Thank you sooo much for your fast response! We are going to sample some of your colors and get them ordered!
Please help! Yesterday we applied cleaner with pump sprayer onto 1.5 year old bare pt pine deck and then used a scrub brush because the power washer failed to stay on. We thought we scrubbed off all of the hazy white areas, rinsed and then proceed with the brightner step. This morning it looks splotchy and kinda fuzzy! What should we do next? Thank you!
Do you need to wait 48 hours after cleaner to use brightener , or is the 48 hour wait time referring to after cleaner, and brightener one must wait 48 hour to stain?
You brighten right after cleaning on the same day. As for stain, that would depend on which stain you are using.
Do you suggest lightly pressure washing first, before cleaning, and brightening?
You pressure wash while using the cleaner. Rinse off the brightener.
I see, so add cleaner allow to set, then pressure wash off cleaner, then add brightener, allow to set and only rinse brightener off with hose?
I recently scrubbed with deck brush and power washed after cleaner and then brightened. I did two rounds of the cleaner brightner, and there is still some whitning of the wood around the knots of the wood and some white streaking it is pretty faint though the deck looks a lot better. Can I stain the deck now I am hoping or do I need to order more product bc Iam out of it now. I don’t know if anymore elbow grease will get this faint whiting out of the wood. I want to stain and get the project over but Iam also worried It could show in the stain. Or is this normal?
Knots are typically lighter in color. Not a big deal. Go ahead and stain. Even after staining knots can still be lighter in color. Nothing you can do about this as it is the grain of the wood.
Rinse with a pressure washer for the last step, not hose. The rest is correct.
I have a new wood deck never stained that is 2 years old and was grey in color. I researched and found your product, I read the label of cleaner and see that some of the wood grain can raise and cause fibers I suppose is what that mean??. But is doesn’t look right iN my final result. I bought a low pressured, pressure washer specifically for the job bc my heavy duty gas powered pressure washer has no low setting and I didnt want any discrepancies on hand with it Chewing up the wood . FYI: The washer I purchased is only 1400 psi… And I pressure washed at least 10-12 inches away.
So my question is, what’s normal raised wood grain that this product causes?
It looks like I pressure washed close up with a gas powered machine, which I did not! I was thoroughly careful and I pressure wash many times a year so I’m fairy acclimated, this is not my first rodeo. It’s looks bad. Fuzzy little hairs all over my deck which was very smooth to begin with. I’m worried my stain will look like s*** without a sanding?
Can you guys send a picture of what raised wood grain fibers is normal and acceptable?? I’m confused this is what the final product should look like. I’m unable to send a picture at the moment but maybe you could send me one that is acceptable so I could compare.
oh and can I lightly sand the wood fibers off or will it hinder the efficacy of the cleaner and brighter?
When you leave wood unstained for two years the wood will heavily oxidize or the top layer will turn gray. When you clean you have to remove this oxidation and the longer you let the wood sit unstained, the deeper the oxidation. The results you are seeing are from the removal of the oxidation and cannot be avoided as it has to come off. It is not a result of the cleaner or the pressure washer but a result of having too much oxidation from the wood sitting for 2 years. At this point, you should sand or buff off the raised wood fibers.
Ok I understand that now thanks. So it’s fine to stain the deck after I sand
the wood and blow it off? No need to clean and brighten again after I sand right? And what grit do you recommend? Thank you
Brighten the wood after is best. 60-80 grit.
I ran out of product. Is that imperative I use Brightner
To even it out and make the wood more porous, yes.
I have a 30+ year old deck that I have power washed and stained every two years with Sherwin-Williams water-based stain. I plan on having my deck professionally power washed and then proceeding with your products. My question is ,do I need to purchase the stripper as well or are just the cleaner and brightener sufficient after having it power washed?
The SW does need to come off fully. Send a picture.
little add on the details: I used a 1600 psi water jet to rince off the stripper and I went over all the railing and spindle with the jet as well. Then I sanded everything.
I have a 16×16 soft wood deck. The floor is about 30year old and the railing and spindle are 2 year old ( I used brown pressured treated wood). The floor had an old opaque coating that was almost all gone, I have used somt techniseal stripper ( don’t know if you have this in the states) and I just spent 1 full day with a commercial grade floor orbital sander going from 24 grit to 80 grit to get rid of some nasty cracks dans kept the old stain in. The railing and spindles was never stained and I just sanded it down today.My next step was to use a cleaner and brightner that I bought with my stripper at the local store( it is from thompson waterseal). Right now I am making researches over the internet to find the best stain and I found your product. My question is: If I go with a restore-a-deck semi-transparent stain, do I still need to use a the cleaner and brightner? do I need to use the restore-a-deck one or can I use the Thompson water seal that I already purchase. Can you kindly explain why. Thx!!
If you use the RAD stain then you need the RAD prep products to ensure the stain soaks in correctly. Thompsons is not a decent prep product for our stain. It could create issues.
I have watched many videos on restraining a deck. I understand I will sand it, then use a restore a deck product. What product do I need to use when the deck had a previous stain? We recently purchased the house so I am unsure the last time the deck was stained or what type of stain was used. Thanks for your help.
We would need to see pictures.
Here are pictures. Thank you
Use this for prep: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/order-restore-a-deck/rad-kits-best-price/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit/flypage.tpl.html
I’m also interested in your products. His deck doesn’t look painted. Why does he need to use a stripper as opposed to just a cleaner? Thanks.
If you are changing brands of deck stain that are semi-transparent, you have to remove strip and or sand to remove previous stain coatings.
Thanks. I’m planning on staining my railings, which is built on top of a composite deck. Do I need to lay down a tarp on the deck to protect it from the stripper? Thanks again.
No, you should not have to do that.
We used step 1 & 2 to prep for stain. The deck looks great! There are some areas with more of these white fuzzies-they are soft, nothing seems to be splintery. Is this the normal grain raising that’s expected or did we do something wrong to cause it? I do notice more of it on areas we did the first day, that had more weathering and algae on them, but we also had some issues with the sprayer we were using for the brightener. So wanted to find out if it could be caused from a lack of neutralizer or something like that or if that’s normal and we’re okay to proceed with staining?
That happens from the oxidation of the wood (graying). It is normal for gray wood to do this when prepping as the oxidation ahs to come off.
Is it safe to stain over top of it now? Or does that mean that it needs to come off before staining and we need to do something else to it to get that off?
You can stain over it.
I have a Timber Tech composite deck floor and a cedar railing with painted or powder coated uprights that was installed 5 months ago. I need to stain the railing only. Will your cleaner or brightener harm the composite deck or the metal spindles of the railing? Thanks,
No, it will not harm the composite.
Is it okay for the painted metal uprights?
It does not harm paint.
Will the 2 step prep solutions harm an adjacent deck that I stained with the restore a deck semi transparent stain 2 weeks ago if I get some on it?
It shouldn’t but prewet and rinse any overspray right away to be certain.
How are you suppose to clean the spindles, by scrubbing them to?
Best is to apply with a pump sprayer and then pressure wash off.
Whew, that’s a relief! Thank you.
I have a deck that is fully skirted all the way around. It has 2 sections one about a foot elevated as an eating area. It is about 25 years old, in VG shape and has been properly maintained.
I will have to sand down the railings, some more than others. I do plan on using an orbital belt sander on the decking. I plan on using your cleaner and brightener and then proceed to my sanding, and last applying the stain. Any suggestions to insure a good finish?
If you sand, do this after the cleaner. Brighten after that. Stain last.
Just placed my order! My question: do I need to have a pressure washer for the cleaner/brightener steps or can I manage sufficiently with the hose nozzle? My deck is new wood and has been in place for about 11 months with nothing done to it. Thanks!
Pressure will help to remove the oxidation that has accumulated. Hose nozzle will not be sufficient.
I have power washed and sanded my entire deck with 60 grit sandpaper. Do I still need to use the cleaner and brightner
Yes, that will help to remove the sand dust so the stain soaks in better.
I installed pressure treated southern pine over three months ago. I am now ready to stain. Is it correct that I need to use both the cleaner and the brightener? And of all things a skunk sprayed one of my dogs and of course the oil from the skunk sprayed directly on the most visible part of my deck and now there are dark spots all over it. Do you think that both steps will help get rid of those spots? One more question? Do you have to use the brightener after the cleaner? I understand that the wood is darker after using the cleaner but what if I don’t mind the end result coming out on the darker side after applying the stain? Thanks!
Yes, use both cleaner and brightener. Not sure if it will remove the skunk oil. I am thinking it will not since they could be deep in the wood grain. Yes, you have to brighten to neutralize the cleaner.
Just one coat of stain.
I am trying to establish if I should use your Stripper or your Cleaner on my deck. It presently has Sikkens Cetol SRD on it and I intend to use the same product again. There are some areas where the stain has somehow come off and you can see bare wood. I also have a part behind the BBQ that is slightly blackened with the heat. Pictures attached. Any help would be appreciated.
It would be best to strip and brighten this so you have a more uniform appearance when you reapply.
I have a 1 year old, unfinished, cedar ceiling over a brick paver patio. It is trimmed in the Trex siding so it is no exposed to the elements. I live in Northern Illinois and this past winter the ceiling did not get any snow or ice on it. It does seem to get some UV rays as the sun hits the patio mid-afternoon. Ceiling has darkened slightly over the past year and may have some very subtle gray streaks but can’t really tell. Want to use your product. Do you think I need to use the brightener or just the cleaner in this case?
Use both for the prep.
I am using Restore-A-Deck cleaner and brightner. I know I need to wait at least 48 hours for the deck to dry before staing with TWP but what is the maximum amount of time I can wait before staining? Do I
need to do anything if the deck drys after using cleaner and brightner and it rains before I get a chance to stain?
Rain will harm the prep. Just wait for the rain water to dry for 48 hours if this happens. Try to stain withing 14 days of the prep.
I have mold on a Perafin finished railings. (Apparently this is a familiar story!) If I want to remove the mold and also strip to remove the Perafin, so that I am able to apply semi transparent stain, do I start with the stripper or do I need to start with the cleaner?
Use the Stripper and then the Brightener. No need for the cleaner.
Can Restore-A-Deck cleaner be used on a wet deck such as after a rain or should it be dry?
It can be wet or dry.
….and the tropical plants that surround both the deck and the walkway.
I am putting the finishing touches to a new wood 35’x12′ 5/4 pine treated deck with a 15’x’4′ walkway. You have been recommended by Deckstainhelp.com. I have several questions. 1. Do I have to wait before I can apply your stain? If so, how long? 2. How much of cleaner and brightener will I need. 3. How many gallons of stain will I need? 4. The deck is adjacent to a koi pond, how careful do I have to be about seepage of cleaner and brightener into the water? Thank you..
1. See this about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
2. We need a total sq footage?
3. Same as 2
4. The prep products are Eco-safe.
Hi, I’ve been using the Olympic Cedertone stain for 15 years. Last year I re-stained but the formula has been changed to a water based formula. While the vertical pieces look fine, the top deck boards and floor boards are really faded bad. I am thinking of using the RAD cleaner and brighter products then using the TWP-100 Cedertone product. Will this combination work or will I have to strip also before applying the stain?
You will need to remove all the previous stain first so the stripper is the correct prep.
If i want to just do a maintenance clean periodically, can i just use the cleaner, or should both the cleaner and brightener always be used together? Thanks!
The RAD products are for prepping when recoating, not just for cleaning without reapplying.
Yes but do I need to always use both cleaner and brightener together? Our can I just use the cleaner?
Use both. The brightener neutralizes the cleaner.
I want to clean & brighten my Redwood deck boards but don’t want to bleach or affect the pressure treated framing.
Do I need to cover the treated wood? Will it bleach or discolor the brown pressure treated wood?
Thank you! (This pic is when the deck was new, the redwood doesn’t look this clean anymore)
The products do not contain “bleach” but it may clean and brighten the framing when you do the redwood.
The deck is off the second story of the house. Under the deck is a garden with tomato plants, dahlias, etc. What are the ingredients in your cleaner and restore product? I want to make sure they don’t harm the plants, or if the vegetables will be safe to eat.
Excellent deck cleaner for prepping to remove dirt, oxidation/graying and mildew.