Makes 5 Liquid Gallons …Enough to Strip 500-1000+ Sq. Feet!
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper: the Best Deck Stain Stripper
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that quickly removes worn finishes to restore wood surfaces. Stains and varnishes are removed along with collected dirt, mold, mildew and mill glaze.
The Restore A Deck system is a multistep deck cleaning system, and best results are achieved when using all 3 products. This product is Step 1 Stripper of the Restore A Deck system and can be substituted for or used after Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner.
WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper removes most oil and latex based finishes including: clear sealers, transparent stains, and semi-transparent stains.
Surfaces to be stripped must be above 50°F. Protect adjacent surfaces; cover with plastic sheets and/or tape off any adjacent areas not being stripped. Thoroughly wet and/or cover plants and shrubs. Rinsing residue will not harm plants or roots. Exposure to full strength product will burn foliage.
The Restore-A-Deck Wood and Deck Stain Stripper needs to be neutralized with the Step 2 Wood Brightener.
- #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Stripper
- Removes most clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid coatings.
- Powdered formula makes 5 liquid gallons when mixed
- Extremely cost effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon.
- Eco-Safe formulas
- Preps previously stained wood and decks
- Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
- Applied with pump sprayer for max results or injected through pressure washer for easier to remove finishes
- Can be mixed at a stronger ratio for difficult to remove finishes. Max would be 3 gallons of water to one container of Restore-A-Deck Stripper
Coverage: 500-1000 sq. feet per container.
Important Note: Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper may not fully remove Solid Color Wood Stains, Paints, Varnishes, and Excessively Over-Applied Acrylic Semi-Transparent and Semi-Solid Coatings. To remove these deck and wood stain types, use the RAD Paint & Solid Stain Stripper
Do you Have a Difficult to Remove Coating?
Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper Additives
The shelf life stamped on the back of the package for stripper and brightener says 36 months unopened. 36 months starting from when?
I applied the stripper today however the semi-transparent stain didn’t all come off. I’d like to reapply in a couple of days and may need to do some light sanding followed by brightener however I can’t do it all in one day so, is it ok to reapply the stripper, lightly sand once dry hopefully the next day then brighten?
Yes, that is okay.
Deck is prepped and ready for staining. Going to apply 2 coats of cedar semi transparent. When applying the first coat in sections, will light overspray from misting with water affect the stain that’s already down on the boards?
Do not break up the misting with the water. Do it once only and prior applying the first coat. Do all the first coat of stain and then apply your second coat within 20-45 minutes.
Will this remove clear water-based stains or will I need the additives? I applied cabot’s clear wood protector three years ago to my cedar fence. Most of the stain has faded but some sections have held up a little better.
This will work. Brighten after.
I had hired someone over a year ago to remove old & peeling Thompsons Water sealer Semitransparent Cedar stain. The men used a pressure washer and made a big mess. So much stain still remains on deck boards and I want to restain it. Will your Restore-
A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper work to remove the horrible remaining stain? If so, how do I apply and remove? I am a 70 year old widow and am at a loss.
Post some pics in the comments.
My deck is 3 years old made of cedar. I let it dry for a year, then used cleaner and brightener on it. Then stained it with semi transparent cedar stain. last year I did some touch-up in a few warn spots. This is what it looks like this spring after the snow has melted. It is pealing badly on the horizontal surfaces. Help! I don’t know what to do.
I just stripped a 1 year old Alaskan cedar deck that had a light water based penetrating sealer on it. We realized it was not strong enough. We tried to edit fir sealer to wear off but looked bad so decided to strip it with your product. I used a powerful hose and scrubber. I washed several times and lots came off but there is lots of residue. Do I need to strip again or sand the whole thing?
Post some pics please for advice.
so, I have the dreaded Behr semi-transparent stain…would I be better advised to use your solid stain stripper????????
Please reply back with some pics of the deck.
attaching pics…..you can see the deck condition in a couple of pics…I have flipped the steps to use the bottom, completely replacing the railings. The Behr semi transparent is coats, because as it peeled, I tried to touch it up in places. Also have replaced boards for a second time….so, from what I have read, Behr is very hard to strip…would the solid stain stripper and additives be a better choice? Or, should I powerwash and sand anything loose and just solid stain over the mess???????
It looks like a solid opaque stain. Behr has a tendency to lie about their transparency with deck stains. You should use our RAD PaintStrip.
Thx, and to clarify, I powerwash the deck, apply the stripper, be patient while it does its work, rinse off …do I need a cleaner/brightener? Do need to sand perhaps?? Lastly, suggestions on stripping the railing 4×4 posts????
You pressure wash off the stripper and coatings, not rinse. No need to cleaner or brightener. You might need to spot sand a little for difficult-to-remove areas.
so I think I want to use Armstrong Clark. They say their semi-solid should not be used on pressure treated less than 12 months old. If I dry the pressure treated (DIY kiln dry) to below 18%, can I then use their semi solid stains? Or their hardwood stains???
No, it is not about moisture % but about the porosity of the wood.
but I could use your solid stain on newer wood, if I dried it using a kiln????
No, it has to weather and be prepped with the solid stain as well. 3+ months. You need to wait if brand new. No way around it.
the deck has 5 or 6 new boards I installed last summer to let age. Can I just run the stripper over them also? Do they need brightener or cleaner used before staining???
Yes, but you will need to brighten all as well. No need for cleaner.
one more question (I think)….in Dec I had an email discussion with your sales folks…they did not recommend stripper, just powerwash, sand, then brighten, then apply RAD solid stain….which is correct, using the paint stripper, or just powerwashing and sanding….
We replied via email. Thanks
Doing a pergola on a stamped concrete patio. Will it hurt the finish on stamped concrete?
No, it will not. Rinse well with water to remove the soap and grime when done.
I have a Yardistry Cedar Gazebo previously sealed with Thompson’s Clear Waterseal over the factory stain. I pressure washed, sanded some fuzzies off then used RAD cleaner and brightener. On the outside surfaces which were very weathered all of the previous stain and sealer appears to have been removed. On the interior roof and beams which had less exposure there is still remaining stain. I plan to stain everything with RAD Light Walnut semi transparent stain. Assume I will need to use RAD stripper for all of the interior surfaces? Will this remove the paint off of the metal roof panels? I may not get to this for a couple of weeks. Will I then need to use cleaner and brightener on the exterior surfaces again?
To remove the remaining stain, you will need to strip and then brighten all of the wood after. It does not remove paint.
Will your stripper remove Cabbots Oil from an Ipe deck?
Our cedar deck is 2 years old, used Cabot Stain on it, but it has not lasted. Some of it has mildewed, some of it is bear wood and some may still have a bit of stain. Cleaner or Stripper? I know I will have to sand afterwards and use brightener before using the stain. I’d love to preserve some of the cedar look so probably use the semi-transparent version.
The Cabot has to come off. Post some pics for prep advice in the comments.
I have used restore a deck stripper. (Previously had Behr deck over on it) About 95% of it has come off. There are spots that look still stained red, and other spots that definitely have the stain still on it. I have done a couple practice runs of a sander and it still isn’t coming out. Do I need to keep sanding? Or can I brighten and add stain?
on another note, if I choose a solid stain Color, do I still need to get all of the previous stain off?
(last photo is a before and after)
You should be able to brighten and stain.
A solid stain can be applied over this as well.
Do I need to finish stripping and brightening the rails if I use solid stain?
even if i havent used the stripper or a cleaner on the rails? just brighten and paint over? (with solid)
No, the rails will need to be cleaned or stripped to remove any loose stain, dirt, etc. Then brighten all when done.
This is my deck, we purchased home 3 years ago, not sure what kind of stain this is they put on. Will the stain remover with additives get this off? I’v pressure washed some. Low traffic areas didn’t get anything with pressure washer.
You can strip some or much of this but it cannot be fully stripped so sanding will be needed to get it all off. This old stain is a filming coating like a varnish that is supposed to be used on siding, not decks. Probably Sikkens DEK.
Okay thanks! Would I wait to do the brightener until all sanded or do the brightener right away and sand as necessary?
Brighten after sanding. The areas on the floor that are excessively thick will be the areas that need to be sanded.
Sorry, one last thing. I’ve called a few local suppliers as I wanted to get this done today while the weather is nice. They don’t have the additives. Do you figure for mine I should have the additives being it’s more of a varnish?
Will the wood stripper work for this?
Yes. Use both additives as well and Brightener after.
feedback on removing this stain. Looks similar to Behr feedback below. Thanks
Picture of the stain on the deck?
Here’s a pic.
Will your stripper remove Behr semi-transparent stain?
Please add some pics. Behr has a tendency to lie about their transparency with their stains and it may actually be a semi solid or solid stain in appearance.
Here is a photo of the sanded deck, two photos as it is now, and one of the can of stain.
Use the RAD Stripper with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Apply and let dwell for 45+ minutes, misting to keep from drying out. Pressure wash off after. Apply the brightener last.
We have a 15-year old ipe deck that initially had Messmer’s oil-based natural stain, but hasn’t been stained since and is now gray. We plan to use RAD stripper, thickener, booster & brightener and then either Armstrong Clark Amber or Mahogany ipe stain. We have heard that it is very difficult to strip Messmer’s and wondered if you knew anything about that. If so, what steps should we take?
No need for the booster and gel for this one. Messmers is very easy to strip.
Hi RAD, We stripped and brightened our cedar deck yesterday, and today found we missed removing some of the stain in part of the deck. The stain is TWP 100 rustic and looked almost new in that area since it was in a covered area. It was very difficult to remove compared to the rest of the deck but we missed it last night when the deck was wet. Since we plan to use the same stain again will it be a problem? I was thinking of spot stripping that area but spot stripping does not seem recommended due to leaving uneven results after staining. Would spot sanding be better? Attached are pictures of the uncovered area and the problem area.
BTW the RAD stripper worked awesome. We had sanded the deck before and this works so much easier.
You can stain this and it will blend since you are using the same stain and color.
Deck is pretty old, not sure which product was applied here but wandering if this Stripper can remove it ?
What did you use? We have a similar looking deck and want that off….
What is the longest amount of time that I can wait between stripping and brightening, 1 week? Between brightening and staining? I have a large 13×31 ft deck and it will take awhile I have a feeling. thanks
Stain within 2 weeks of prep for best results.
Hey, this deck has most of boards under trees. 1st three boards looking good. Others not so much. This is before and after stripper. Thoughts? Thanks
Cannot tell since the wood is wet and you have not used the brightener as well.
Help!!! Just finished using the step 1 stripper and pressure washer. Trying to take off 2 year old Cabots Australian a timber Oil (which I disliked very much). The RAD did not fully remove all the previous product. Can we buy another bag of stripper and strip again? Thanks
Post some pics of your prep so far.
It was Cabots timber oil in natural (awful product).
Can we strip again? With the RAD of course
Yes, use the stripper again: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Stain-Stripper.html
and both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Let dwell for 30-60 minutes (keep wet from drying out by misting) and then pressure wash off.
Sounds like a plan. Ordering now. Thank you for your help!
Does it need to be completely bare?
After using RAD stripper, we will need to sand the raised grain areas on our cedar deck. When we stripped it in the past, we get several areas with raised grain. We want to sand it properly with 60 grit to prepare for stain. Question is, do we use RAD stripper then brightener then sand (rinsing in between and after sanding of course) – OR – do we use stripper then sand then use the brightener (rinsing between and after)?
Strip, sand if needed, then brighten.
Thank you for the reply. Will the brightener raise the wood grain like the stripping process sometimes can? And if it does raise the grain a little in spots, do we gently sand those areas again, rinse, dry 48 hours, stain?
Brighteners do not raise the grain but they do make the word more porous. Do not sand after. You want the wood porous, not smooth like a hardwood floor.
Got it! THANK YOU for the help. Just want to do this project and do it right! Thanks again for the clarification
Hi, used the stripper and additive and this is what I have. Thoughts? Its not as clean yet as I had hoped. Thanks
It looks like the old stain is gone, did you brighten the wood yet?
No, ready to do that but wanted to make sure you thought the stripper had worked properly. So, go brighten?
It does look like the stain has been removed so go ahead and brighten.
Hey, applied the Brightener after the stripper. Still looks to have some dark areas? Does it need another coat? Thanks
The dark spots (could be water stains internally) look deep in your wood grain and most likely will not come out if you try to strip and brighten again. We would stain.
Thanks, one last question. How wet should the wood be for a wet on wet application?
Thank you for your help! We have a 1000 sq ft deck with wood handrail that is 10 years old. Not sure what products the previous owners used. My questions: 1) Should I use stripper on everything even though in some parts it looks like the previous coating is almost completely gone (see 3 gray photos)? Should I use cleaner instead? 2) I tested an area with stripper and brightener yesterday and got some fuzzies (see yellow-brown photo, though the fuzzies were showing up much better earlier today after a rain). Is sanding these fuzzies a must, or can I just sand the handrails and leave everything else fuzzy? 3) from what I’ve read, it seems like I should strip/clean and then move on to brightening only once I’ve cleaned the whole deck. Is this even true for large decks like mine that might take several days to clean (I’m slow!)?
Strip and brighen all. You do not have to sand fuzzies. Strip all and then brighten all.
I was under the impression that the stripper had to be used on dry wood. However, step 2 on the RAD stripper says to wet the wood (dampen the wood) first. Which is right ?? I suppose you need to sprinkle a tad of water on the wood before using the stripper ?
I’m planning to strip and brighten my hardwood Cumaru deck in three sections. I have one pump sprayer.
I could use the pump sprayer to apply the stripper and strip all three sections over the course of a couple of hours. Then put the brightener in the sprayer to brighten all three sections. This means there might be hours between stripping and brightening a given section.
Or I could try to find another way to apply the brightener to each section as the stripping is completed. This would be closer to following the instructions that say to apply brightener while wood is still wet from the stripper.
I read a comment here that said applying the brightener the same day as the stripper is still fine. But do you have any recommendation between the two options in this case? Thanks!
Strip all then and then brighen all when done. Make sure to rinse the sprayer out with water when switching.
I have completed stripping and brightening this Cumaru deck. I actually ended up going through the process twice after noticing some remaining stain in spots where I didn’t leave the stripper on long enough the first time. But I do have a question now.
There is one corner of the deck that gets a lot more sun and rain. This area had grayed considerably more than the rest of the deck. It is MUCH better now, but I’ve noticed that this area has retained a bit of its gray-ness after going through the strip and brighten process twice.
Should I try another round of brightener before staining? Or maybe try staining first to see how it looks? And if I did stain it could I immediately try to brighten again if it’s still noticeable? Or would I then wait until next year when I clean/brighten again? Thanks again!
Brighten would not make a difference. It’s just part of the wood grain due to more UV exposure. It should be fine to stain.
Thanks again for your help with this. I appreciate having a resource like this available. I think I have just one more question.
I stripped and brightened the whole deck once. When, done I notice several areas where the stain had not been removed (maybe due to me not leaving stripper on long enough). So, I stripped and brightened the whole deck a second time leaving the stripper on longer. After doing this, the deck looked good. A thorough inspection just found one spot where it appeared some stain remained. So, I stripped and brightened just that spot again (so the third time for this spot). After completing the process, the area appeared a bit darker than the surrounding deck and had some hard edges that made it quite noticeable, especially when wet. So, I brightened just that spot again the next morning. After this second brightening, the area looks a lot better. When dry, the area appears lighter and more gray. When wet, I struggle to notice that it’s there at all. I’ve attached pictures from two angles of the area dry.
What do you think happened? And what’s my best path forward from here?
It is because you spot brightened. You cannot do this and have an even pH balance for all the wood. If it does not show when wet then it will not show when stained.
About to do stripper+brightener+booster+gel+restain on wood paneling (vertical). The deck beneath it is Wolf PVC (not wood) in amber color. Will the product do any damage to the deck (i.e should we cover it)?
It should not harm the PV but make sure to rinse overspray right away and do not let the solution dry on the PVC
Do you sell this in any stores in upstate New York?
will this product damage painted siding? how best to protect if do?
The stripper will not remove paint. Best to prewet and rinse any over spray on the paint while working so you are not leaving a mess from the old stain you are removing and/or any dirt from drying on your paint.
Can this product be used on a fiberglass door to remove stain?
I bought a home last year that has an Ipe deck about 4-5 years old. At the time of purchase, the deck was a weathered grey. I have no idea if the previous owners ever maintained it in any way. I recently pressure washed the deck to remove dirt and mildew and discovered the rich, warm color of the Ipe which I would like to keep. However, there are some areas where the pressure washer left marks that can still be seen when the deck is wet, so I’m assuming they will remain visible after staining. I’ve opted to get the RAD stripper (and brightener) instead of the RAD cleaner because a small area of the deck under an overhang still appears to have some stain remaining. Will the RAD stripper and brightener remove these pressure marks, or will I have to sand? And if sanding is necessary, will lightly sanding just the affected areas cause uneven stain adhesion? Thank you
No, it will not remove the pressure washer marks. You would have to power sand all wood evenly to remove so the stain would absorb evenly. Do not spot sand.
I have a nine year or pressure treated deck that has three coats of solid stain that has worn off in several places. What do you recommend to use for preparation of the deck for one of our solid stains? Strip, clean and brighten?
Strip and brighen to remove the peeling solid stain. You do not have to remove all, just the peeling or loose solid stain when applying our solid stain.
I used Olympic Maximum semi-transparent stain and sealant. Last year I ended up with a lot of peeling and would like to strip and redo. Will your product work for this application or must it be sanded? Also my vinyl siding was painted. If using this product will it affect the painted siding? Thank you
What you have on the wood now is a filming acrylic stain that is sitting on the wood like a paint. Not easy to strip fully off. Use the RAD stripper with both additives and pressure washing. Let dry and spot sand if needed any stubborn areas that will not strip. Brightener is last.
Thank you for your quick response. That does not sound good. No where on their can does it state it’s acrylic. Guess I have a lot of work to do. The stripper with the additives will not harm my painted vinyl siding will it?
No, but always prewet and rinse any overspray while working so you do not have any dirt and soap drying on your paint creating a mess.
The Olympic Maximum has lots of issues. Just search “Olympic Maximum Reviews” on Google
Don’t think I’ll be using that product in the future. Is your product available in a cedar tone? And is it a water sealant or stain? Everything I see says stain. And if I use it will your stripper remove it if needed? Thank you for you time
Yes, we have a cedar color. It can be easily stripped if needed. FYI, all deck stains are sealers as well. You can never topcoat over a deck stain with a sealer, it would peel.
Will this product damage the blk steel pickets on my deck, should I cover them when stripping rails please?
It should not but alwasy test a spot first.
I used Seal Once Nano Poly (clear) on my deck last year. The portion of the deck in the sun doesn’t bead up the water anymore, but the portion under the covered area does. Do you recommend I strip just the portion under the covered area, or the whole deck? Will this product remove Seal Once Nano Poly? Would a cleaner be okay to use instead of the stripper? Will the stripper ruin the aggregate concrete patio (with a sealer on it already) below the deck when it is washed off?
Post some pictures of the current condtion for prep tips. You will have to remove the old stain when switching stain brands.
Please see pictures
Use the RAD stripper with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Sand if needed any stubborn stain that cannot be stripped. RAD Brightener after.
Will the stripper harm the aggregate concrete below the deck?
It will not. Rinse when done to remove dirt, soap residue, etc.
Thankyou! Last question. Will the stripper damage the black spindles we have in the picture? I assume if we get some on it from spraying it on or from power washing, it would come off just fine by wetting it
It should not but test first to be certain. Prewet and rinse overspray is typically what you need to do.
Sorry, another couple of questions. I haven’t bought the products yet, but when you use them, do you have to scrub with a bristle brush or just mop and power wash them off? Also, my humungus deck is on the 2nd floor, so any product will drip down my newly painted house (acrylic paint) and we try to wash it down, but will any of them harm my paint if they sit awhile?
Apply and then pressure wash off. It should not harm paint but rinse overspray as soon as you can.
15 year old deck with some minor splitting and no rot.
Mostly cambara and with some red merant used on the top of the rails and privacy fencing.
Current coating is Messmers UV Plus done 3 years ago. I’ve used Penofin Red Label in the past.
I plan to strip and brighten the entire deck rails skirt and privacy fencing. Not having to
pressure wash would be nice but I have a machine if you think it’s needed.
Mildew and dirt typical here in southern New Hampshire
I’m not sure what I will put on this time.
Recommendations would be helpful on which cleaner stripper and brightener to use before applying a fresh coating. I really like a transparent coating that brings out the color and grain of the cambara.It’d be nice if something lasted a while.Your thoughts on a coating would be nice too.
A few pictures are attached. Any advice will be appreciated.
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper/Brightener Kit for prep. For the stain, use the RAD Stain in Light Walnut:
Thank you and keep up the good work. I know it takes a lot of effort to provide this service to us all. I, for one, appreciate it!
My deck restoration project is finished for this year. Following the Restore-a-Deck process and using the recommended products the results are fantastic. Attached are a few images of the deck after stripping and brightening. Also attached are a few images of the deck after one coat of the semi-transparent stain in Light Walnut. The entire deck is constructed of Cambara with some Red Meranti mixed in for railing tops and trim boards. The deck was constructed in 2008 and to this point has no rot whatsoever. I plan to clean and re-coat in 2023.
Looks great! Don’t forget to enter out contest: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2022.html
My deck is sealed with Lumber-Seal clear wood sealant. They call it a tricopolymer sealant. Will your stripper remove this?
Yes, it should be fine on this.
Would the stripper or Brightener harm asphalt roofing shingles?
No, they will not.
I just bought a new home with an 80’ x 12” deck. Deck has never been stained but unfortunately it has been treated with a water sealant. After power washing twice I am not sure anything was removed and unsure if wood will accept a latex stain. Will your stripper remove water sealant and prepare wood to accept stain?
Yes, it will remove a sealer like Thompsons.
what’s the storage time for a mixed RAD Stripper? I need to parse out my stain removal on my fence and wanted to see if there’s a storage life on mixed batch.
The stripper does not go bad or have an active shelf life when mixed.
ok great. thank you
test this again.
Will this product work to strip off this?
Post some pictures here in comments
It’s an older formula I think from 2009 on the spindles (the deck is something different) I’ve sanded off some of the larger areas but the spindles are impossible to get between.
In many areas, it looks like it is applied to the point that it looks like a solid/opaque stain, not semi-transparent. The RAD stripper will not remove a solid stain fully. You can use it with both additives and remove some or a lot, but sanding will be needed as well to get it off fully.
For ipe front steps (in full sun and weather all day), I’ve been using the cleaner and brightener then a non-toxic oil Penofin Verde. It darkens very quickly, and I’ve been doing the process twice a year. It’s a real pain! Would the stripper work better to clean? Thanks!
Yes, and the issue is the Penofin. It has known issues of darkening or turning black. Use our RAD Stain in Light Walnut. Much better and will not darken in color.
I’ve started stripping cedar siding on my house with your Wood Stain Stripper and it’s working well, but have not applied the Brightener. Will NOT neutralizing the stripper with the brightener cause problems when staining (with Ready-Seal stain)? The siding is completely dry.
You cannot skip the Brightener step.
Will it cause any problems applying the brightener a few weeks (or more) after stripping?
Sooner or same day is best. If you wait more than 2 weeks you will need to redo a light prep by washing with water and then applying the brightener.
I used your stripper (with booster) and whitener full strenght on a cedar ceiling that had been stained 3 years ago and started getting black mold. Stripping worked perfectly. I then stained a section with 2 coats of your cedar stain. I didn’t like the way I applied it (it was splotchy) so I decided to strip it the next day and planned to re-stain it. Well, I tried stripping it twice (full strength with booster) but it barely put a dent in it. Have you had people successfully strip your stain a short time after application? I am wondering if I have to give up stripping it and will have to sand it.
We have been able to strip newly applied RAD semi-transparent stain without issues. Not sure why you are having an issue. Send a picture.
here is a picture after stripping twiceThanks!
Looks like you really over-applied it maybe? Try letting the stripper dwell on the stain for 30-60 minutes. You may need to mist it to keep it from drying out.
I applied 2 very light coats of stain. I will try letting the stripper stay on longer. Thanks for quick reply
The system works. I had 3 year old Behr Premium Redwood Deck Stain. Used RAD stripper with additive and gel. Pressure washing took some time but 99% came off. I used had sander for the little bit left plus to smooth out some places where I went to hard with the pressure washer. Used brightner and a week later applied the RAD dark walnut semi transparent stain with the car wash brush. Looks great. Very happy with the results.
Here’s a better pic fully dried.
Very nice color
I am building a new house and they just stained our front porch cedar posts and header. It is stained a dark walnut color. As soon as it was done, my heart sank. I wish I could go back to the original cedar color. The builder said that we would never be able to get the color out because cedar is such a soft wood. Would this work to strip the color back to normal? (One pic is of the original and the other is after the stain)
What stain brand did they use?
Sherwin Williams Woodscapes
Try the stripper with both additives: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
Wait about 45-60 minutes (mist to keep wet) and then pressure wash off. Brightener last.
The net of it is ….. should I worry about the foam? Is it OK just to go ahead with Brightener? The correct answer is yes (I hope)