Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper

$34.99
free shipping with ground services
#1 Rated Wood and Deck Stain Stripper that removes clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and most semi-solid coatings.

Extremely cost-effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon.
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Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper Official Dealer

Makes 5 Liquid Gallons ...Enough to Strip 500-1000+ Sq. Feet!

Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper: the Best Deck Stain Stripper

Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that quickly removes worn finishes to restore wood surfaces. Stains and varnishes are removed along with collected dirt, mold, mildew and mill glaze.

The Restore A Deck system is a multistep deck cleaning system, and best results are achieved when using all 3 products. This product is Step 1 Stripper of the Restore A Deck system and can be substituted for or used after Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner.

WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper removes most oil and latex based finishes including: clear sealers, transparent stains, and semi-transparent stains.

SURFACE PREPARATION:
Surfaces to be stripped must be above 50°F. Protect adjacent surfaces; cover with plastic sheets and/or tape off any adjacent areas not being stripped. Thoroughly wet and/or cover plants and shrubs. Rinsing residue will not harm plants or roots. Exposure to full strength product will burn foliage.

The Restore-A-Deck Wood and Deck Stain Stripper needs to be neutralized with the Step 2 Wood Brightener.

ADVANTAGES

  • #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Stripper
  • Removes most clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid coatings.
  • Powdered formula makes 5 liquid gallons when mixed
  • Extremely cost effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon.
  • Eco-Safe formulas
  • Preps previously stained wood and decks
  • Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
  • Applied with pump sprayer for max results or injected through pressure washer for easier to remove finishes
  • Can be mixed at a stronger ratio for difficult to remove finishes. Max would be 3 gallons of water to one container of Restore-A-Deck Stripper

Coverage: 500-1000 sq. feet per container.

*Will not remove excessively over applied stains, solid color stains, paints, or polyurethanes fully.

Do you Have a Difficult to Remove Coating?

Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper Additives

Restore-Deck Stain Stripper Application Tips

How do I strip the sealer from my deck?

Strip or Clean the Deck

Available Sizes:
2 lb Container
Powder Concentrate:
1 Container Makes 5 Liquid Gallons
Purpose:
Stain Stripper
Coverage Per Gallon:

100-200 sq. ft Per Gallon

Application Tools:
Injector, Sprayer, Stiff Brush
Neutralize: Yes
RAD Step 2

 

 

 

 

Reviews

Sunday, 24 December 2017

#1 Rated Wood and Deck Stain Stripper that removes clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and most semi-solid coatings.

Scott

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  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Scott · 11/04/2019
    I used the RAD Stripper this weekend on my deck and the old stain has been really difficult to remove. I believe the old stain is Benjamin Moore - Arborcoat Semi-Transparent. I applied the RAD Stripper twice. The first time I let it set for 20 minutes and the second time for an hour. I used a power washer in both cases. I was planning on getting another batch of the RAD Stripper and also the booster additive and trying again. This time also using a brush along with the power washer.

    Do you think this will work and should I also get the thickening gel?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 11/05/2019
      What you have on the wood is a filming forming coating that dried on top like a polyurethane/varnish and why it is shiny. This is extremely hard to strip off as it is not a true penetrating semi-transparent stain but is acting more like a polyurethane. Also is why the BM peeled on you. The Booster and Gel will help some but you may have to sand as well to get it all off.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Scott · 11/05/2019
        Thank you for the response. What order would you recommend I do each step in? Should I user the stripper + additives, let dry, sand and then neutralize? Or should I neutralize before sanding? Also, would I need to use a cleaner again after sanding?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 11/05/2019
          Neutralize after sanding. You do not have to clean again.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Harriett · 10/11/2019
    Do you sell smaller sizes of your stripper and brightener? I only have 6 deck boards to strip. They are new boards and the person staining my 10 year old deck stained them while I was away instead of letting them age and darken to better match the old boards.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Kyle · 09/25/2019
    If I strip and brighten one weekend and then apply stain after two weeks will I have to redo everything?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/25/2019
      If longer than two weeks you should lightly pressure wash and brighten the deck.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jason · 09/18/2019
    I've cleaned, stripped, and brightened twice with RAD and still seeing some spots with the old stain - TWP Pecan. We'll be staining with TWP 116. Should this be stripped again or sanded prior to staining ?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Kyle · 09/09/2019
    We purchased a house with deck that needs some work. I don’t know if it is a solid stain or paint that is on there now. Can you tell me what you think and if this product would work on it. Pictures attached.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Tim · 09/08/2019
    Will this stripper or whitener harm vinyl siding?
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    Donald · 08/23/2019
    Will this harm stainless steel? I have cable rail around my deck and am worried the overspray will do something to it.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    D Johnson · 07/31/2019
    I got some of the dissolved stripper on a window when I was spraying it on the deck. It left spots on the window that do not want to come off. I have tried detergent and a razor blade, window cleaner, and acetone. Any ideas?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 07/31/2019
      It should not do this unless the glass has a coating on the exterior of it? Do you know if it does?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Nick · 07/07/2019
    Previously had Behr "Semi-transparent" in Chocolate (which seems a lot more opaque than most other semi-transparent stains?). The Behr was wearing and peeling.


    I've done 3 full rounds of stripping and power washing with RAD stripper + both boosters, followed by brightening. This got "most"--but not all-- of the Behr stain off. I just can't bare to do any more prep at this point (sanding this is out), but would prefer to avoid a completely-solid stain covering if there's something that will work.

    What's going to get the best results (with easy reapplication of future coats), despite the little bit of lingering old stain remaining? I had hoped the RAD stripper would prep this well enough to be able to use TWP, but it seems like the semi-transparent oil-based might not provide good "coverage" of the lingering Behr?

    What do you recommend that I should stain with at this point? (North Carolina, full sun, pine)
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 07/08/2019
      At this point, you could try the TWP 103 Dark Oak. It will blend much of the old Behr but it will show through slightly and will be a little shiny in the areas it goes over this Behr. The other option is to sand.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Nick · 07/08/2019
        Oh interesting, I figured the TWP was fairly see-through and would be totally out of the question, especially given that the Behr seems 'more opaque' than the TWP, and that the oil based are more of a "soak in" rather than sit-on-top stain.

        Thoughts on TWP 100 vs Armstrong Clark oil based semi-solid for this?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/20/2019
      That looks fairly thick. Do you know the brand and type of stain that is on there now?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Stan · 06/17/2019
    A small vertical section of ny deck is stained with semi-transparent Honeytone. Should I use the stripper, additive, and gel in preparation for using Classic White solid stain. If so, can I use smaller proportions of each? Photo attached.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/17/2019
      Just stripper. No need for the additives in this scenario.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    FurnitureRefin · 06/13/2019
    In one area on a teak table, I accidentally let some of the stripper dry. It had both additives in it. I have sanded and brightened the table, but when it is dry, I can still see an area of darkened wood. Anything I can do? I do plan to seal the table with semco in honey, will it show when finished?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Idesignedit · 06/12/2019
    Can I use Restore-Deck Stain Stripper on this deck to remove the solid stain color (see attached image)?

    What do you recommend?

    Thanks
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    jeff · 05/10/2019
    will this harm cement board siding ?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Miles Unruh · 05/08/2019
    our deck was new July 2018. We used Olympic sealant from Lowes at that time. This spring we stripped and power washed and brightened twice to remove all the sealant. On Tuesday, we stained and now we do not like the color so want to restain. BUT the wood looks like it's furring! Should we lightly sand or can we not, with it being new wood? Thank you for replying.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/08/2019
      If you want to change the color you will need to strip it again. You could lightly sand after with 60 grit to remove any furring.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        kaylene · 05/17/2019
        The wood is actually very furred. Do I clean and prep before I sand? We have to replace a few boards also now because of a burn. Can I do this all in 3 months, like in September?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 05/17/2019
          Strip and brighten and then sand. You can do all in Fall.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Carly · 05/06/2019
    Will this remove Thompson's Water Seal?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Kevin · 04/22/2019
    Will this work on Behr Semi-Transparent stain? Thanks!
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    Randy · 04/22/2019
    Late last year I used Ready Seal (cedar color) to stain our screened-in porch. Porch was built over 35 years ago with cedar with redwood support columns and beams. Do I use your stripper or cleaner product before brightening and staining?

    Secondly, should I use a brush to apply the stripper or cleaner as recommended above so product does not affect outside painted surfaces?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 04/22/2019
      Yes, strip and brighten. Prep products do not remove paint.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    john Kay · 04/16/2019
    If I have very light spots and dark spots. Should I used stripper then brightener, or cleaner then brightener?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 04/16/2019
      Best to post a picture here so we can see the best way to prep.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lori · 04/15/2019
    Hi. We just used a different stripper on our IPE deck and there are still areas that have quite a bit of stain left. Those areas were not exposed to the sun, so the stain was still mostly in tact. Looking to purchase RAD stripper and brightener for the next round. Do you have any tips or recommendations for removing stain from IPE? Is it helpful to use a brush when applying the stripper? Was thinking about possibly sanding, but not sure you're supposed to sand IPE. Not sure what stain the contractors used a few years ago, but it's a mahogany color. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Alex · 02/26/2019
    is scrubbing necessary if power washing? Looking to remove TWP 1500 from the deck
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Alex · 02/12/2019
    I plan on stripping the deck floor, TWP on there now, I have a solid stain on the railings, do I need to worry about getting stripper on them and affecting the solid stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 02/13/2019
      The stripper does not remove solid stain unless the sold stain is peeling already.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Alex · 02/12/2019
    What angle nozzle do you recommend on the power washer? I figured out the right size for 800 psi but wondering what angle to use, 25 degrees?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Tango · 10/10/2018
    If I strip and brighten now, can I wait until Spring to stain? It's just the stain that is on there seems to promote mold . . . and with the weather changing, I may not can stain now . . . . Or should I just wait until Spring? Thank you!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 10/10/2018
      If you strip/brighten now, you will need to redo in the Spring with a cleaner and brightener.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Tango · 10/08/2018
    I plan on using this product in the spring. I have a year old deck stained with SW Superdeck. Have had lots of mold and mildew due to rain, humidity and aphid droppings from the trees. Have power washed x2 in a month and have power washed some of the stain off since I knew I would be stripping it anyway. When I get ready to start this project, can I skip the cleaning and just start with the stripping step? It's a treated yellow pine deck.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 10/08/2018
      You do not need a cleaner if using the stripper. Apply stripper and pressure wash off. Rinse and apply the brightener. Rinse that well after about 15 minutes.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Tango · 10/08/2018
        Great to know! Thank you very much!!!
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Peter Jacobson · 09/21/2018
    Have 1000 ft2 22-year old PT deck. Was RAD prepped and stained with Armstrong Clark semi transparent dark brown stain in 2015. Couldn't retreat with RAD 1 and 2 plus same stain as shady end of deck was heavy with green mold and mildew.

    So, decided to strip, brighten and stain all with RAD (light walnut). Have stripped all and brightened just a couple hundred ft2. Periodic rain is going to delay staining a bit. Wood is still fairly wet, which acounts for some of the darkness variation iin pics.

    Have seen references to "furring" in your replies. Is this what pictures of the more open grain are showing and should I sand those boards with 60-80 grit? Would that be sand, rinse and brighten? Also, would light use of an orbital sander be OK or should I stick with a sanding block?

    IF you can reply quickly I'd be very greateful.

    Many thanks,
    Peter
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/22/2018
      Sand rinse and brighten. 60-80 grit. Floor buffers work the best. I would not suggest an orbital hand sander.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Anthony Ojeda · 09/16/2018
    I live in Georgia and saw the reviews online for your products.

    I used Thompsons Timber Oil in Teak about 2 years ago on new wood and want to strip, clean and re-stain. Will your product bring back the natural wood color? Thanks
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/16/2018
      Could you please a picture of the current condition.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Anthony O · 09/17/2018
        Sent under 3 emails from phone.
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 09/17/2018
          The stripper should remove the stain but you will need to use a pressure washer after applying it and you may need to strip the verticals a couple of times to remove. Brighten after the stripper.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Katie C. · 09/04/2018
    Do I have to follow with the brightener if the wood is fairly new, or will water neutralize it?
    Thanks!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/04/2018
      Yes, you have to neutralize with the brightener.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Katie C. · 09/04/2018
        Yikes! OK, so I stripped yesterday, but don't have the brightener. Will it destroy the wood if I don't neutralize? Is there some other neutralizer I can use that I can purchase locally (I'm assuming your brightener won't get here fast enough)? Or is it OK to wait a week or so?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 09/04/2018
          Best to neutralize as soon as possible the same day as stripping to lessen the chance of "furring" but since it has already dried, it will not matter if it waits a week. Our brand will work the best for this.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    K.K. · 08/16/2018
    After I applied the stripper and brightener to my deck and power-washed, a lot of the blown off old stain got stuck to the walls. I power-washed the walls but brownish marks are left behind. These marks are like the sticky substance left behind by scotch tapes. How do I get rid of them? They are noticeable and ugly looking.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/16/2018
      Try a water-based graffiti remover cleaner from your local hardware store.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Dustin · 08/15/2018
    I have a huge tigerwood deck. It has crd sikkens stain on it. I have got everything off the railings with is stripper. I am having some trouble getting the stain off the floor. There are someboards where it is not coming completely out and when I scrub more it causes some maeks. see the picture. Will these mark show up when stain with restore a deck natural? Should I leave the stain that will not come off? I dont want to damage the boards. Or should I just sand the floor?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/15/2018
      Are you pressure washing after applying the stripper? Make sure that you brighten the wood after all the stripping is done.

      Try to remove as much as possible. It seems that most is removed in the picture. The brightener should help as well to even out the appearance some.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Dustin · 08/15/2018
        I am power washing and brightening while it is still wet. It is different boards which the stain remains. The stain will just not come off these particular boards even with scrubbing. I will send a picture of the board.
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Dustin · 08/15/2018
          Here are the photos. It tends to be the weaker boards thathat it wont come out of. That is why I am wondering if I should sand the floor instead because I dont want to damage the boards.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            RAD Products · 08/16/2018
            You could try the sanding.
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              Dustin · 08/16/2018
              What level of grit would you reccomend since most of the floor is stripped? Sand, vacuum, wash, brighten and then stain and in that order? I may just stain the floor this year since most is removed and sand the floor next year if I have issues with uneven fading as the railings have been completely stripped and those should not need to be sanded.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                RAD Products · 08/16/2018
                60-80 grit paper. Sand, lightly wash and then brighten for the final prep.