We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Hi, after pressure washing including removing flaking transparent stain, how long should I wait before reapplying RAD transparent stain? Thanks
After fully removing the old stain, you can then apply the RAD Stain to a dry or damp deck.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood
Hi, I sanded down a pressure-treated wood deck with a belt sander last spring, brightened the wood, and then applied Restore a Deck transparent mahogany stain. The first picture shows the area with one coat applied about 12 months back, which is starting to show white areas. The second picture shows part of the deck that had two coats applied at the same time. Question. Do I need to sand down the whole deck or just use your cleaner and then apply a fresh coat of restore a deck stain, same color and make? Thanks for the advice,
Clean and brighten and then recoat with same.
thank you
I used RAD 2 years ago. Can I reapply RAD?
Of course. Make sure to prep first.
how should i prep?
Cleaner and Brightener.
Hi! I’m trying to figure out what products I need. Last year I redid my deck with cedar boards and made new railings with pressure treated lumber. I have also let it sit for a year to let it weather. I kept the old pickets however and don’t know what type of stain was used on them. I would like the deck to have the same overall look, so will I need to go with a solid/semi-solid stain in order to match the PT wood with the Cedar? If I go with that type of stain will I need to remove the stain from the old pickets?
Your railings look like a solid stain. Have you considered a two-toned look? Solid stain for the verticals and a semi-transparent for the flooring. Looks great!
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/two-toned-decks-with-restore-a-deck-wood-stains
Thanks for the idea! If I were to go with that idea, would I only need to use the Cleaner and Brightener? Can I also use those on the railings and just stain over the existing stain without fully removing it?
Yes, clean and brighten all, even the old stain.
I have a 20 year cedar fence that was stained 20 +/- years ago. The wood is in ok shape. I had some of your cleaner and brightner left over from a purchase several years ago and applied both to about 50′ ft of fence over the last 12 days, trying to see the best way to apply since I have about 250′ linear feet to do. The areas came out clean and bright but have dried and been rained on since cleaned\brightned. Do they have to be cleaned and brightned again before applying your semi-transparent stain or can they be wet down and then stained?
Since it is veritcal wood, just give it a good rinse with water.
After rinsing, does the semi-transparent stain get applied to the wood wet, damp or dry?
How much longer can the wood sit before something more than rinsing with water works?
You can apply the RAD stains to damp or dry wood:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood
This will not work for other stain brands, just the RAD Stains.
Looking to confirm procedure for 20 year old cedar fence. It old but vertical wood, one or two coats?
The how to deck stain to damp wood says:
The Rad Stain on Wet Tips says
Since it is an older fence, it is most likely very dried out, so it is best to apply the 2 coats wet on wet.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application
I have deck, railings, stairs, posts etc. that add up to about 900 square feet that I would like to clean/strip old semi-transparent stain, brighten and re-stain using the RAD wet-on-wet method. I think I know the products needed – but my question is around the patio – made with concrete-based/formed pavers – might the cleaner/stripper and/or the brightener harm that in any way? I know I will need to put out drop cloths/tarps for any stain drippings – and wet/protect any foliage nearby when cleaning – but for the cleaning/brightening portion – could that discolor the pavers at all? The wood is treated pine – about 8 years old. Appreciate any other tips you could provide here as well! Thanks!!!
Prep products will not discolor the pavers but make sure to rinse them well when done to remove all the grime that will come off your decking.
Good Morning! Over the weekend, we used the Cleaner, Sanded deck and railings with a manual pole sander, then Brightened. The color looks great, except there are a zillion little white fuzzies. The more it was sanded, the worse it got. We began staining the rails with Light Walnut yesterday. The stain is very uneven and the fuzzies are picking up more stain and looking dark. Here is a photo of a railing section. We have a ton more to go, then the flat deck. I’m afraid it will look bad if we continue with the staining. Help!
It looks like you “furred” the wood when you prepped it. This can happen when your wood has ehavily oxidized as you must remove the layer of damaged/gray wood fibers. See this article for an explanation.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Would it be okay if I was to get my deck completely prepped with stripping and brightening but wait I’m just a couple weeks before I stain? The reason for the question is that according to the semi transparent stain instructions the needs to be at least 12 hours from the time the stain is applied and before any precipitation and I don’t think I’m going to have that window and I will be leaving for a couple of weeks and will not have an opportunity to do that before then. So, the deck will be totally prepped but just not stained for up to two weeks. Do I need to do anything before applying the stain 2 weeks following the brightening of the deck?
No more than 2 weeks after prep to stain. If longer redo with the brightener.
Hello. Not sure if my message saved. Applied stripper then did brightener on Ipe wooed deck. What could have caused this difference in coverage/color? This is taken a year after application, but pretty much dried this way. Thanks for any advice!
It looks like you “furred” the wood when you prepped it. This can happen when you over-strip a deck. See this article for an explanation.
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
We would clean and sand buff the floors and give it another coat when needed.
I really want to avoid sanding. So cleaning and brightening only will cause same inconsistent staining, correct? Could it also happen if not all of the RAD brightener was rinsed off 100%? I had a really difficult time getting it completely rinsed – without any suds appearing. Thanks
It is not from the brightener. It happened during the stripping. The article explains why this sometimes happen.
Ok thanks. Maybe the “fuzzies” are not really visible. Nothing looked different than it has before when I stripped the deck then applied brightener.
Have you tried a light wash/rinse to remove dirt and just add another coat? It may even out. Try a test board.
I was going to do RAD cleaner and brightener.
In your case, I think you could skip the brightener and use the Cleaner at 1/2 strength. You want to just clean off the dirt. I would still suggest the light clean and test board with a coat of stain to see if it evens out and looks nice and rich in color.
Perfect. I’ll try that. I have 1/2 2.5 gallon container left that is a year old. Should it still be good? Have new stuff coming.
It should be. Just shake it very well for a minute and make sure there is no clumping.
When using the solid stain over rusty screws and hardware will the rust bleed through?
It will cover the black rust marks but if the nails continue to rust, it may bleed through. The only way to fix would be to remove the bad nails.
Have a 1400 square foot pressure treated wood deck that was previously coated with Behr Deckover(worst product ever made). I used a Diamabrush to remove all of this product last year. Had to replace a few boards. Now I want to use your semi transparent stain to refinish deck. Plan to use the cleaner, then brightener, then brush on stain. Will I be applying one coat or two wet on wet? Thanks for your help.
We would suggest one coat now and another maintenance coat as needed in 1-2 years.
At a coverage rate of approx. 150 square feet per gallon, should I order 2 of the kits containing the 5 gallons stain and cleaner and brightener, or does the cleaner, brightener go further than 150 sq. ft. per gallon. Just trying to make sure I order enough product without getting more than I need. Thanks again.
2 of the kits containing the 5 gallons stain and cleaner and brightener is correct.
8 moths ago, I used the 3 part system to apply the semi solid water based RAD. It worked well, and weathered ( just a bit) over winter as expected. I want to re apply RAD but want to use the cleaner , rinse then apply RAD, only. Is the brightener an absolute requirement?
Its a big deck and originally took some 20 hours to do the job. Simply put, I want to avoid the work and cut corners,
Thanks,
Brightener is strongly suggested to neutralize the cleaner. FYI, when doing a maintenance coat and the stain was applied under a year ago, you can use the Cleaner at 1/2 strength as you want to lightly clean off dirt, etc. only. Only 1 coat of stain since you will have a base coat.
Our deck is around 500 ft2, and was stripped, brightened and stained with light walnut in the spring of 2021. We did a separate deck last summer and have 2 gallons of light walnut, 1/3 bag of the cleaner and 1/2 bag of the brightener remaining. Will I have enough product to do the 500 ft2 deck this year, or what additional product should I order? I’m not sure how to attach a picture to show you the condition of the deck.
For 500 Sq feet and two coats applied wet on wet, you need 4-5 gallons of stain. For prep, please add pics. Click the paperclip icon in the comments to upload pics.
On this site, I’m not seeing the paperclip icon, just Bold, Ordered List, Unordered List and Emoji. I’ve added a picture in reply to the email you sent me. Thank you.
Right side. Refresh the browser or maybe a different browser. See pic.
I’ve tried both Google Chrome and Microsoft Bing. No paperclip… no biggie.
You can email us the pics at sales@restore-a-deck.com. Also, please send a screenshot of the comment box so we can see it is missing the paperclip for our developers.
Done
We uploaded the picture. Was this deck prior stained with the RAD Light Walnut? You should use the Cleaner and then the Brightener for prep and then just 1 coat of stain. 3 total gallons should be enough.
Excellent! Thank you for your quick responses.
We want to stain a 3 yr old pressure treated pine deck, 14×20 ft (280 sq ft) with railings, slats, and 6 stairs. It’s never been stained before. The “apron” around the outside of the deck will be stained also. There is no lattice.
We want to use the 3 step process using the Light Walnut stain. How much cleaner, brightener, and stain do we need to buy?
Thanks
Hi,
What is the total sq footage added up that includes the rails, stairs, etc? We cannot guess based on your floor dimensions.
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Ok, husband measured it. 640 sq ft total includes flat surface, apron, stairs, railings. We will need enough of the 3 step process to do 2 coats.
For the 2 coats applied wet on wet, about 5-7 gallons of stain.
One cleaner and brightener prep kit.
Thanks! Also, how long should we wait to apply the second coat since we cannot walk on the first coat?
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application
Ok. Can the same Wooster Wide Boy bucket be used for the cleaner, then the brightener, then the stain if we rinse it out well between each? We plan on buying the 14″ brush for staining and it will fit into that bucket well, I assume.
You apply the cleaner and the brightener with a pump spryer and then pressure wash off. Applying it out of the bucket by mopping and scrubbing would take much longer and would not be as effective.
Need to know what product to use to strip the solid finish on my deck
Are you recoating with another solid stain? If so, you do not have to remove all of the old stain. Just the peeling portions.
About 4 years ago I replaced the surface boards on a 15′ x 54″ deck with redwood. About a year later I cleaned, brightened and stained using your natural semi-transparent stain. I recently power washed the deck but it needs to be restained. I am going to be using the same stain as before. Do I need to strip the deck or just clean and brighten before applying the stain?
Either would work but Clean and Brighten should be sufficient.
So in 2022 I did the RAD Cleaner and Brightener. But I only applied one coat of the RAD semi-transparent wood stain because it was darker than I’d hoped. It’s two years later and I was super busy last year… and did nothing in 2023. Now the deck has some mold and wear.
I assume for this season I should use the Cleaner and the Brightener before applying another coat of the semi-transparent stain? If so, should they both be at full strength? And should I only do one coat of wood stain or two?
THANKS!
Use the prep at full strength and then 1 coat of the stain.
Sweet! Not to be dense, but when you say “prep” do you mean the cleaner, the brightener, or both? They both say “PREPS” in the top corner. 🤔
Both.
Hello, we already purchased whole set from you guys of transparent stain with cleaning supplies, but also as it’s an old wooden deck we want to make sure it will be safe for kids, and be splinter free. Is there anything we can apply on the top to protect our kids? Thanks
Sorry but no, it is not possible to top-coat any deck stain brand. It would peel if you did this.
Ok. Thanks. Is there any solution?
There is no way to prevent splinters on a deck 100%. Staining will help but not 100% prevent it.
I have a new deck that was built about 11 months ago, made of new, kiln-dried wood. By the time it passed all the inspections it was too cold to stain it. I’m about to use the RAD cleaner and brightener, then a RAD semi-transparent water-based stain. The guidelines on your site say to let the wood weather 3-6 months; on the stain product it says wood less than 12 months old is still considered “new wood.” So should I use one coat or two on the deck? The deck is about 8 feet above the ground; should I also stain the underside, or not?
You could go either way with the # of coats. If you do two, make sure they are two light coats applied wet on wet:
No need to stain the undersides.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application
Using the same semi transparent stain and color: For the yearly maintenance coat, do I need to Clean AND Brighten the wood before applying the semi transparent coat? Or can i just clean it?
If both need to be done, can i brighten immediately after the cleaning process is complete, or do i need to wait a little while?
Clean and brighten and brighten right after cleaning
We had a cedar deck built ~ 5-6 years ago and had it stained after 4-6 months of wood curing. The initial product was a Behr semi-transparent strain and applied in the fall. Within 18 months the product was pealing and the wood was exposed. We power washed and sanded with too fine a grit, and the two applications of Olympic Maximum clear waterproof sealant was applied. This lasted ~ two years and began to peal. I again power washed and hand sanded the deck surface and began on the slats and posts. Weather did no allow me to finish and the deck is now 6-8 months out again.
After reviewing multiple sites the Restore-A-Deck system and stain have been highly rated by multiple sites, including the DeckStainHelp.com site. I have calculated the staining surface at ~ 1000 sq ft.
My questions are:
Can a water based stain be used now after the two prior stain/sealants were oil based?
I am planning on using your RAD Stripper and Brightener to prepare the deck.
I think I need to re-sand the surfaces with a 60-80 grit sandpaper as we were using 180 before, which as learned now made the wood less available to accept the stain.
We have intense sun on the deck 8-10 hours a day with temperatures regularly in the mid-upper 90’s, and occasionally greater than 100 deg F. Our winters are occasionally harsh..
Are we better using the TWP Pro 1500 semi-transparent cedar stain which is oil based, or will your Semi-transparent cedar water stain penetrate and protect as good as the TWP product.
I am ready to order and complete my deck restoration by the end of this month before temperatures reach the 90’s. We live in Kansas City MO.
Thank you for your assistance.
Strip and brighten all with the RAD Prep and then yes, you can use the RAD stains. Do not sand, it closes the pores of the wood, reducing stain penetration.
The prior sealants/stains were oil based. Can we use the RAD water based stains or do we need to re-apply an oil based stain?
Given the weather parameters and high UV exposure, do you recommend the RAD stains or will the TWP Pro 1500 offer better protection?
Thank you.
Once you strip and brighten, you can use any stain base type. Use the RAD.
I have seven year old pine deck with Sherwin Williams solid stain. It is 12 x 24. I would like to restain it with solid stain, so solid stain to solid stain. Do I need to strip or just clean before staining? I do have a power washer. There are a few areas where the stain is coming off, flaking. Your product sounds really good, have been disappointed in the Sherwin Williams.
When preparing for recoating a solid stain, it is best to pressure wash and remove all the dirt, mildew, and any loose solid stain. You can then cover the intact old solid stain with the RAD Solid Stain
Thank you!
I’m trying to prep my old deck for staining with your semi stain, currently waiting on samples. I power washed, sanded the deck with 36 and finished with 60 grit. Still working on sanding sides and benches. I do want to stay away from any chemicals like brighter etc. is my deck ready to be stained? See pic below.
Once I decide on the color, what tools should I use and what amount of product ? since my deck is about 800 sf plus benches. after applying 2 coats to I need to use any sealer on top to keep moisture away? Also, are the darker colors are more easily peeled or chipped over time?
Thanks
When you sand, you need to open up the wood pores so the stain can penetrate by using the RAD Wood Brightener and light pressure wash rinse.
Use the stain brush to apply the semi-transparent stain.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-staining-brush.html
You cannot apply a sealer over a deck stain, it would peel if you did.
Thanks!
How many gallons do I need for 800sqf?
And how long does it take for the second coat dry completely?
About 7-8 gallons for 2 coats. Dries in 1-3 hours.
Hi – we have a small cabin that is approx 8 years old. The siding is cedar and doesn’t look like it was ever treated. We would like to apply the solid espresso – would you recommend just Step 1 prior to application? Would we need to do Step 2 to brighten if the final product is a solid dark stain?
You need both a Cleaner and a Brightener. The Brightener neutralizes the cleaner. Don’t forget to enter our contest when done:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-stain-contest-2024
Deck solid stain removal:
Approximate size of deck: 450-480 s/f
Wood type: I believe it is pine, I am not sure if it was pressure treated
Age: 20-25 years
Type of stain: solid stain
Last time stained: 6-7 years ago
I do have access to a pressure washer
Are you trying to remove it fully or prep for another coat of solid stain? The latter is easier.
lol I would like to remove it fully.
You will need the RAD PaintStrip: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paint-solid-stain-stripper-5-gallon.html
4 years ago, we stripped off the old stain on our deck and re-stained with restore-a-deck natural semi-transparent stain. The deck was fairly old (at least 10 years old, but really not sure how old) when we re-stained it and it is now showing some old grey wood poking through. When we re-stained it the first time, we hoped we might be able to just power wash and apply a new layer of stain the next time. Do I need to do the other steps?
Please post some pics in the comments of the current condition.
Sorry, I thought I had. It does not seem to be allowing me to add photos 🙁
I tap the paperclip, choose a photo and see a progress bar in the upper right of the screen, but nothing is added.
Here is a link to the photo on google photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/kVRtyPpKzR1NVKhe6
That can happen when the photos are too large in size. When reapplying, you use the RAD Cleaner while pressure washing and then the Brightener after.
Used semi transparent stain last year wanna recoat what’s the correct process clean brighten than stain 1 or 2coats
Yes, clean and brighten. After prep, if you still have a base coat then apply one coat.
Hi,
I have a 22 year old deck, pressure treated wood. Original product put down is unknown.
8 years ago, pressure washed and applied Olympic maximum solid stain.
What product will I need to prep and re-stain? I’m thinking regular rad strip and brighten then stain again. I am probably going to use a solid stain again.
Thanks!
Correct, strip, and pressure wash to remove any loose solid stain. You can then cover the intact solid stain with the RAD Solid Stain. No need to brighten in this scenario.
Will the water of pressure washing neutralize the stripper? Just want to make sure before I start.
No, you need the brightener to neutrlaize the stripper.
About two years ago, we put two coats of solid costal gray on our deck after carefully prepping it. Looks great and holding up very well. Some areas where water tends to stand after rain have mildew forming. What is safest way to remove the mildew? Thank you so much!
Try warm water and some dish soap and lightly wash with a car wash brush.
Hi, we are in the process of restoring our deck. Here is the information you asked for. The stairs will also be replaced in the coming weeks. When finished, they will just be straight down to a pad, so we’ll need enough product to do those as well.
Square Footage of Area to be Restored: 380sqft plus railings and spindles and stairs
Type of wood if known: Cedar
Approximate Age of Wood: 24 years
If Applicable, the Previous Stain Brand Used and Type Tompson’s Water Seal
If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained: 2-3 years ago
Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.): Deck
Do you have access to a pressure washer? Yes
Miscellaneous Info: We had a company powerwash the house last week. They did the deck, and now we want to refinish it. For some reason, they didn’t do the outside of the deck, so we’ll need to do something with that area ourselves.
We are learning toward solid-color stains due to the age of the deck and its splotchy nature. But if you think the deck may be cleaned and a semi-transparent material could be used, we’d be interested in that option. In reality, we are looking for whatever will be the best-looking and last the longest.
Hello,
If you prefer semi-transparent, then strip and brighten all to remove the rest of the old stain:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
If you prefer solid stain, then clean and brighten all will work:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
They both last about the same but the solid will give a more consistent look for the older wood.
Can I go over old stain with new? I originally used light walnut 2 years ago. It is time to stain again, but I want to go darker.
Strip and brighten if changing colors.
Hi there! I used your product 3 years ago to stain 2 small decks and a pergola. The wood was not brand new – we had it all built in 2016 (so 5 years prior to staining). It turned out great. Three years later and the decks look awful, so I need to redo them. Do I still need the same amount of product and need to go through the whole process again? I still have a half a bag of Neutralizer/Brightener and a half of the 2.5 gallon jug of stain. We used a combo kit with Light Walnut. Without the pergola (which still looks fine), it will be just under 300 sq. ft. I can’t see a spot to post pics.
Hi, Yes you need to do the same prep and stain. It will require the same amount of products as prior. The stain when opened only has a shelf life of 12 months so it is probably not good anymore. The Brightener should be okay to use.
Good day – I’m looking to re-stain the following, and would appreciate any input – thank you! I am considering the RAD semi-transparent water-based stain.
Prep with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kits. Apply two light coats of the RAD Semi-transparent stain after.
No issues with prep runoff but keep the stain out of the pool. Clean and recoat every 2-3 years.
Appreciate this, thank you. Thoughts on amount of stain needed? Wanted to confirm approximate coverage amounts just because I have to import into Canada.
For 2 light coats, about 6-8 gallons. One of each Cleaner and Brightener.
Thank you!
Hello, I have a pressure treated deck, approximately 550 square feet on the south side of my home. New decking was installed in summer 2022. I applied Restore-A-Deck products in May 2023; Cleaner, Brightener then Cedar stain. The stain went on very easily and the deck didn’t absorb much stain as it only took 1 gallon to coat the deck even though I tried to apply the stain liberally. The stain has now come off on about 10% of the area of the deck.
I would like to give the deck another coat of stain as I have lots left over. What preparation steps do you recommend?
Thanks !
Prep with this kit:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
Project details:
Upper deck: 327 sq feet of horizontal deck surface, 56 linear feet of horizontal railing, and 104 vertical posts and rails
Lower deck: 356 sq feet of horizontal deck surface, 58 linear feet of horizontal railing, and 112 vertical posts and rails
Redwood – installed in 2018
Decks were last stained in 2021 using the RAD cleaner, brightener, and semi-transparent (natural) stain. Two coats on the horizontal surfaces, one on the vertical rails. The 2021 staining has held up nicely, as it only recently started to look like it needs a refresh. Prior to that they were cleaned, brightened, and stained with RAD products in 2019.
No pressure washer, but could likely get one
Here are my questions:
Should we use the cleaner as we have done in the past, or do we need to use the stripper?
Any reason to use a pressure washer? In the past we’ve used a pump sprayer to apply the cleaner, then scrubbed with a stiff brush.
We’re thinking about using the solid stain (maybe white) on the railings. Is the prep for this any different? If we do this, how long before we need to do it again? When it’s time to redo the solid stain, would we use the cleaner or stripper?
Does the white solid stain yellow over time (like white Lego bricks do in the sun)?
We’re in San Francisco, and rarely have more than two consecutive days of sun, so RAD has been great as we can apply it even if it’s foggy here. Should we be considering a different one of you products, or do the others require very dry conditions for application?
Thanks for your help!
Clean and brighten while lightly pressure washing for prep. You could scrub as well but pressure washing is easier. Same prep if you want to use the solid stain on the verticals. The white solid stain does not yellow over time.
We are in the process of replacing our railing on an extremely large deck with pressure treated posts and rails. We know the pressure treated has to weather for 3-6 months before being stained. When the time is right, do we use cleaner and brightener on the new pressure treated wood or can we just stain it?
Clean and brighten for prep.
Stripped and stained back deck last spring with RAD Natural semi transparent wood stain. Want to do a second clean and coat this spring. Can I use the Light Walnut over the Natural? Or do I have to strip and start over?
If you want to change color you would need to strip and brighten for prep.
Want to stain new steps and refurbish existing porch floor. New unstained wood on steps installed 1 yr ago. Stain on covered porch ( out of the elements) applied probably 10 yrs ago. Don’t remember stain brand but was probably from big box store.
I have a pressure washer.
Approx 8’x20’ for porch plus 5 steps @5’ wide.
Love your products.
Strip and Brighten for prep.
I stripped, cleaned, brightened, and stained my deck last summer/fall using the RAD system. Should I apply another coat of the semi-transparent stain this spring? If so, should I use the cleaner and brightener beforehand, or just the cleaner? Thanks.
No need to apply this year. Wait until next year and clean and brighten for prep.
I have 2.5 gallons of semi transparent stain that’s 2 and a half years old. Is it still good to use. I need to by more as well but I only need another 2.5 gallons if what I have is still good to use.
Hard to say for certain. If it has been opened than it is most likley not good. Look for clumps. If clumpy then it is not good. If you do end up using it, make sure to shake well for 1-2 minutes and then mix with the nwe 2.5-gallon prior to applying.
Mathis is my third time doing maintenance coat for a semi transparent cedar. I forgot if it’s one coat or two coats for wet on wet?
If you have a base coat after prep, then just do 1 coat.
How do I safely and responsibly dispose of leftover materials? I have cleaner that is hard as a rock, brightener solution that is old and a half gallon of semi-transparent stain that is too old to use.
Best to contact your local city/municipality for assistance. They typically will have a day or two a year where they accept paint-related materials for disposal.
The product containers say to get Safety Data Sheets from the website. How can I locate them? A half-hour search failed to turn up anything.
Google “restore-a-deck SDS” and they will populate.
500 square foot deck we used your Solid Stain = Brown Oak in 2021. It’s faded in some places and needs to be refreshed. It’s not peeling or anything like that — which was my greatest fear when we pained vs. stained. So, how do I go about refreshing? Do I have to strip it? or can I clean, brighten and paint again? Thank you.
Just clean, no need to brighten when recoating with the solid stain. Add 1 coat of the solid stain.
Is this available in ontario canada
Cost of shipping?
Price in american dollars?
Can I pick up in michigan if not available in canada?
USA only. You can see shipping costs by adding products to cart and entering your shipping info. Prices are USD. You can pick up in MI.
~243 SQFT to be restored
Most of the deck is pressure treated lumber. The lighter part is 2.5 years old. The rest is ~8 years or older. If the deck was previously stained, it was over 4 years ago, though I cannot detect evidence of previous stain. I do not have ready access to a pressure washer. More details upon request. Appreciate the advice!
For prep, use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-package-300.html
For the stain, any color in the semi-transparent line:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon.html
I have aged dried larch 3/4 T&G flooring. Does it need to be weathered before applying RAD stain?
Yes and prepped.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood
Hi, I got some unforecast rain after staining. I had semi dark walnut stain, but it looks very light now. Wondering what I should do.
Leave as is until Spring. Lightly clean with water and apply 1 coat then.
I have 800 sf of deck previously stained 3 yrs ago with TWP Semi-solid stain. It is faded/worn in the sunny places but still intact in the shade. There is no peeling or chipping. I want to apply your Solid stain. Do I need to strip or just clean the deck? Also, must I brighten after cleaning or stripping? Finially, how much stain should I buy?
Strip and brighten for prep is your best option. About 8 gallons for 2 coats.
Hi,
Completed RAD steps for new PT railing and posts. Started staining with RAD natural but would like to change the color. I would need to strip the current stain off and brighten before using new stain (Natural to Cedar)?
Also how long before stain is rainproof? I read somewhere it was 12 hours?
Thank you
Yes, strip and brighten if you want to switch. It can take rain in 6-12 hours after applying the stain.
Hi I cleaned and brighten our dock yesterday. This morning, the dry and not yet dried parts look different. That’s understandable. Is it ok the apply the semi transparent stain as it is or will the stain look different because some parts of the dock is still wet?
As long as the darker areas are from being damp only, then it will stain evenly once all wood fully dries.