We understand that everyone needs help with their wood/deck restoration and that not all projects are the same. Different species of wood, the age of wood, and types and brands of previous coatings make it difficult for homeowners to determine what is needed to restore their exterior wood or deck correctly.
We will ask some specific questions and reply to what you will need to do in your restoration process and the appropriate products and amounts to purchase, so it receives the proper prep and treatment required.
In the comment section below, you must include:
- Square Footage of Area to be Restored. See below.
- Type of wood if known:
- Approximate Age of Wood:
- If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based):
- If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained:
- Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.):
- Do you have access to a pressure washer:
- Miscellaneous Info:
- *Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for RAD Stains
The specified coverage rate for RAD is 150-200 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate of RAD for sure. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. RAD has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
I’m just a regular home owner with a 35 year old deck and I got to tell everyone I did my testing on my deck with about 1/2 dozen stains and deck cleaners— I TRYED THEM ALL but hands down RESTORE A DECK STAINS, stripper,cleaner, and brighter are the best no question about it so for all you people out there who r going to do your deck this is it.
Thanks, Peter!
Hi, we bought a home with neglected ipe hardwood on the back deck and around the front door. It appears to have been stained with a dark maybe reddish stain at some point. It was installed in 2005. No clue on when it was stained or with what stain.
Ideally we’d like to change the color, but not sure if that’s possible given it’s so dark. Will the stripper remove this stain given it’s so dark? Any chance of returning to its natural color? Interested in process recommendations. Thanks!!
Please send a closeup of the stain on the deck and does it have a “shine” to it? It is hard to tell from teh pics you sent.
Sure, see attached. Parts of the deck that are under cover (the eave overhangs thus more protected) have some shine left. The exposed parts really don’t. Around the front door in areas protected there’s more shine, you can see the transition from deeply weathered to more protected.
Use this kit: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
with both additives:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
After you would stain with our Restore a Deck Stain:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain-1-gallon.html
I stained my dock a year ago with your stain and have lightly power washed the dirt off last night. Can I restain it now?
Yes. Looks good to go.
I used Restore-A-Deck on my cumaru dock a year ago. It has started to fade just a little bit. What do I need to do to re-stain it?
Thanks,
Larry
See other photos I sent earlier
from the left untreated top deck
second upper part treated with stripper and brightener one time
third photo shows other view of treated area that extends to other side nothing done yet
Secon strip and brighten? I hate to use more power with the power washer but what do you suggest?
Yes, redo the stripping and get closer to the wood. You can get 95% of that off.
So I’ve stripped and brightened all the areas shown. The steps look pretty good and ready for stain. Does the upper deck need a second stripper and brightener? I didn’t power wash it as hard as the stairs. The second half of the upper deck hasn’t been done. Thank you
I want to buy only the stripper
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper.html
Deck is made of redwood. On the floor of deck you will notice for the four boards on left that some light stain remains accumulated.in some areas. So today I am focusing on removing the final stain having to alternate between 60 or 80 girt as effective removal by grit seems to vary on some boards. Not sure if you have any further suggestion on grit use. Tow other questions. Based on the overall quality of the prep of the boards in these pictures I assume I do not need to clean but should focus on brightening the boards. Would that be the correct assumption?? Second question is related to the knots. Appreciate as they are more porous the previous stain has likely settled in this area. The person who applied a stain used a red based tinted stain Will a stain remover help to get some of the stain out otherwise I appreciate the knots will continue to stain out darker when new stain is applied as we plan to use a transparent stain.
We would strip and brighten all wood when done to remove the stain in the knots. No need for the cleaner.
Hello, we purchased Restore A Deck stripper, brightener, and stain products approximately 5 years ago. I’m embarrassed to say, the project was never started due to various circumstances. The deck is in relatively good shape. We’d like to start it this summer and I’d like to use the materials purchased long ago. My question is two fold — 1) will the products still work given they’ve been sitting on the shelf for so long; and 2) a portion of the deck has black mold. Should the deck first be treated with a cleaner meant to address this issue, and then followed with the stripper, or can the stripper alone be used to remove it? I know the mold killers can be harsh, so my concern is one harsh treatment followed by the stripper might cause issues. Thanks for your time.
Hello,
The stripper and brightener should be fine but the stain has a shelf life of about 3 years. The stripper will remove the mold.
I just ordered the restore-a-deck package 600. Does that look like what I should be doing? Decks are older. Don’t think we’ve ever stained them, but have resealed every two or three years. Please advise.
You should be stripping and brightening, not cleaning and brightening as you have an old stain.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
If you need to cancel your first order, please reply back to your order email.
Good Evening,
I sent my information. Did you get it?
Thanks
Less than 2 years ago, I had a new deck floor, spindles and trim installed. The deck size is 20×10 . Before I apply any new coating, I have tried one application of SW Superdeck Stripper. Before I purchase any more product, I am trying to see if there is anything else that is better. This is pressure treated wood that is about 15 years old. The stain is an Olympic Semitransparent that has been on for years due to numerous applications.
Hi,
Use this kit:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-stripper-brightener-kit.html
with the Booster and Gel additives:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
I received a package from Restore-a-deck that includes Cleaner, Stain Stripper Booster, and Brightener. So I am assuming I can adder the Booster to the Cleaner. If not, why would RAD send the Booster without the Stripper??? The directions are that you either Clean or Strip but not both. I sanded my (massive) deck 2 years ago and applied a transparent stain. The deck looks awful today. I want to restain with a “translucent” stain.
Gary, could you reply back with a picture of what you received? Also, did you buy this over the phone or online? We could not find an online order in your email. If a phone order, please send a picture of the invoice.
Shipping Label says I bought this April 2021. I do not have an invoice.
Initially my plan was to strip the deck as I have done many times before. For 15 or more years (clear cedar deck) I applied a solid stain for 2-3 years, then strip, brighten, and restain with a solid stain. Even though I bought the RAD materials as described, I changed my mind this time (2022) and sanded the entire deck with professional equipment. This deck is 65′ long and between 12′ and 20′ wide. Sanding took several days. Then for the first time I applied a transparent stain. The deck was beautiful. Best it has ever been. Unfortunately transparent stain provides zero protection. The deck is now a discolored mess. I do not believe there is any mold but it is discolored. The cedar is in excellent shape.
I ordered online. It was shipped from:
OPW LLC
Phone: 248 858-8900
2388 Franklin Road
Bloomfield Hills, MI 48302
We cannot find an online order from you in 2021. We have one 2022 for samples and then other orders from 2019. You cannot mix the Booster into the cleaner. It only works with the stripper. You would need to buy the stripper if you want/need to strip:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper.html
Attached photos for comment. Do I need to strip all stain if restraining with same product( dark walnut semi translucent).
Thank you
Yes, strip and brighten is correct. It will be easier and have a better appearance when recoating.
Hello,
Used your products (semi translucent dark walnut) a few years ago. Want to restrain using same stain. Do I need to strip ALL stain off before reapplying? I used cleaner/neutralizer after power washing. Thank you.
You can use either our stripper/brightener kit or our cleaner/brightener kit for prep. Which to use does depend on current condition. Post a pic or two in the comments.
I have a pressure treated deck with Armstrong Clark semitransparent stain on it. I need to apply a maintenance coat of Armstrong Clark stain. How should I clean it to prepare for staining? Also, I have a few rough spots I need to sand prior to applying maintenance coat of stain. What grit sandpaper should I use?
Thank you.
Use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit for prep. Spot sanding can lead to uneven application. We typically do not suggest it.
I have some RAD cleaner. Use it at full strength? I don’t have any brightener. Is using only cleaner ok? I have some areas that appear to have sap coming out of the wood. What should I do to those areas?
Thank you.
Post pics in comments for strength advice. Typically a brightener is needed to neutralize the cleaner. You cannot prevent or even remove sap with our products.
Here are some deck pictures
here are some pictures of my deck.
Yes, use about 2-3 ounces per gallon of water. Apply and lightly agitate. The goal is to remove any surface dirt, etc.
And then use brightener after, correct?
Correct.
Thank you
We’re building a new home and need to stain and mount cedar corbels we’ve had made. We need to mount them before the stone surround is installed nstaed. The corbels were rough hewn; however, our corbel maker sanded them somewhat to make them a bit more smooth. We’ve had them in our garage for 6 weeks. Can we apply the light walnut stain now before installing them up in the home?
As long as they are rough cut, yes.
I have already started the stripping and cleaning process with another brand. Can I swap mid way through my project? Only at the stripper (hehe) phase. Can return unused brighter product and do my swap there if that is recommended. I also would like to use a restoration product, the thick fill in damage type stuff, on the floor/steps and I’m wondering if there are any suggestions on color coordinating the 2 products. Complimentary colors. Or is there something else that can be suggested for an older abused (was a rental) deck floor. It’s covered with lots of beams and railings that can handle semi transparent. The flooring is different ages and there are some damaged areas.
I am sorry, but your questions are a little vague. Are you trying to switch to our prep and stain products? FYI, be very careful when using a Deck Resurface product. Many have extremely poor ratings for peeling and causing wood to rot:
https://www.deckstainhelp.com/behr-deckover-olympic-rescue-it-rust-oleum-deck-restore-do-they-work/
I am half way through stripping with a different product and assume that’s ok to finish using, but I already have a different brighter purchased. Can I use that brand or do I need to return it and use your brighter for better stain results? Comparability with other prep products is my question.
Got it. You should generally use the same stripper and brightener from the same brand. Also, if you are using a certain stain, you should use the same prep product brand as the stain, if applicable. For example, if you are using our RAD solid stain, then you should use our stripper and brightener products.
So I should start over?
Upload some pics in the comments.
Picture 1 has been stripped. 2 and 3 are still in need of stripping. Is it ok to use the stripper I’m currently using and then continue with RAD brightener for the second step or do I need to start over with RAD stripper?
You can continue with the stripper currently using and then continue with RAD brightener for the second step.
And yes, I’ve seen the reviews. I’m going back and forth. I’ll end up back on stain before long. It bent covered is the only reason is I’m even considering that poor decision. Lol.
20×15 two and a half year old pine deck. Treated with behr semi transparent water based stain two years ago. Currently using RAD 2 Step Stripper and Brightener, which is working fabulously. Have RAD Wood Stain ready and waiting for staining. We have a few rough areas on the deck that we would like to sand prior to staining. Would there be any issues if we wait for everything to dry, sand, and then apply the stain, following the directions?
If you spot power sand then it is very possible that the stain will take/stain differently in those areas. It would be better to sand all but if you do, make sure to only sand with 60-80 grit paper and only 1 coat of stain. You brighten after any sanding.
Yikes! Any tips on removing the semi-transparent stain from concrete? .It’s a fresh spill.
Try a paint stripper and pressure washing. Not easy as concrete can be very porous.
Hi! I used your complete kit to redo our cedar posts about 2 years ago. They still look great, but i want to clean and brighten them. Will using the cleaner and brighter harm the stain that’s already there?
Or what process should i take?
Our Cleaner and Brightener kit should only be used of you plan on recoating. If just cleaning off dirt, try water and some dish soap.
Deck size = 600 sq ft
Not sure on wood species, pressure treated supports
I’m guessing the deck is 15 years old
2 years ago was the last time it was stained with restore a deck dark walnut
I have a pressure washer with multiple tips
Hi, I purchased restore a deck stripper, cleaner, brightener and stain a couple years ago and used it on my deck. It didn’t turn out the way I wanted it, but I assumed some of it was user error, as I changed the application on a lower deck and it turned out much nicer. I am now pressure washing the deck just for general maintenance and to maybe remove some of the spots where I applied the stain to thick and it looks a little filmy. This is my second day of pressure washing but the boards look like they have a coating of pollen or mildew on top of them when they dry, they look very grey. Note that this is a dark brown stain.
Should I be using a cleaner prior to pressure washing on an already stained deck?
Any additional information would be appreciated.
Thank you,
The first picture is of an area that was pressure washed earlier today and has dried.
The second picture is of part of the deck that I pressure washed yesterday.
The third picture is of a portion of the deck that is still wet from pressure washing.
Are you reapplying? You should never use deck prep products or pressue washing on a stained deck unless you plan to recoat. It is not possible to just remove the thick spots only. You would need to remove all the coating and start with fresh unstained wood. There is no mildew in the pics.
I have tried several stripping brands and have sanded for 2 weeks I still and unable to get the behr solid stain off completely on the deck boards. I am wanting to go to a semi transparent stain but as you can see from the pictures on the samples the color is still bleeding thru and giving a zebra stripes affect. I. Sanded the railing and those boards down however still not the result I was looking for. What do you recommend I try next? I am wanting a Semi transparent stain that will not bleed thru and look terrible or should I just stain solid again and forget about the 2 weeks I spent sanding the railings?
Have you tried our RAD PaintStrip to see if you can get the rest off? You can buy a test jar here:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paint-solid-stain-stripper-sample-size.html
If you can get it fully removed from the flooring, you could go with a two-toned look. Solid for verticals and semi-transparent for floors. It looks great and offers the best overall protection with ease of recoating.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/two-toned-decks-with-restore-a-deck-wood-stains
Hi, I am working on my mom’s house which has a neglected mahogany deck that is around 1000 sq ft. Not sure how old the wood is but it must be older than 15 years. The wood was grey and had mildew and such things on it before I power washed it. This actually left the wood looking pretty good when wet but it doesn’t look so good when dry. Additionally, some boards had to be replaced because they were becoming unsafe. I believe that the boards which are already on the deck have been stained at some point because of some stain droplets on surrounding exterior shingles, and because the new mahogany does not match the boards already on the deck.
What combo of cleaning, sanding, stain stripping/brightening and new stain will allow me to get this deck back into good condition and having a uniform color between new and old boards? The goal is to have a fairly natural (not very colored) looking mahogany deck but I realize this may not be possible due to what I think is existing staining.
Thanks for your help in advance
Photo 1: Deck during power washing after not being cleaned for a long time
Photo 2: Dry deck during deck board replacement in same spot as photo 1
Photo 3: New deck boards vs. old deck boards in sunlight
Prep with the Cleaner and Brightener kits and then stain with the Restore A Deck Stain in Light Walnut. New wood will always stain lighter and there is nothing you can do to make it blend exactly the same as the older wood.
My deck is cedar and it is currently coated with Sico translucent stain. Attached are pictures. Can it be stripped with your stripper product?
Hello, it looks like a varnish type stain which means you would need our RAD PaintStrip:
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-paintstrip-paint-solid-stain-stripping-gel.html
I have a 20yr old 12×24 deck that I’m rebuilding, reusing what I can. All the decking is being replaced with composite, however all the framing (Pressure Treated) was stained with Behr Semi-Transparent. I’m going to strip, use the cleaner/brightener and re-stain. I plan on using Joist Tape to cover all the old nail holes and protect the top of the joist so my question is:
Should I put the tape on before I stain or is it OK to do it afterwards. I’m just worried about adhesion once the the deck is stained.
Post pics of your Behr stain to make sure it can be stripped. No need to clean if stripping. Stain may prevent the tape from adhering.
Here are some pics. So I just need the cleaner for the new wood? Stripper for the old stuff?
Correct. Use the Booster and Gel with the Stripper for the Behr stained areas.
Great, Thanks so much!
I applied two coats of RAD semi-transparent stain to new pressure-treated pine deck boards in Sept. 2020. Applied one maintenance coat in May 2022. I cleaned and brightened yesterday. Do you recommend one or two coats this time?
One coat should be enough.
I cleaned and brightened my deck and have some patches of the white fuzzies. What kind of sander and what grit sand paper should I use to remove them.
See this article for tips: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/wood-fuzzies-furring-on-deck/
Can I use your stripping products for Sico semi translucent stain on a cedar deck
Sico Exterior Wood Stains? Yes. Do you have pics of the deck you can add to comments to see if you need the Booster and or Gel?
Is there a special package deal for a stripper and brighter 4 pack (2 each) like the deal you offer with the cleaner/brighter 4 pack?
No, there is not.
My deck is about 7 years old and I just redid it for the 3rd time. It’s redwood and I’ve never used anything but RAD products on it. It’s approximately 16×14. I am assuming I need to go down to bare wood each time I redo it. Is that true? And at some point do you need to switch to stripper instead of cleaner if RAD is all that’s ever been used on it? This year the cleaner just didn’t do the whole job. Finally started using the bristle brush you recommend…and in spots it still didn’t want to turn loose. Yes, I was pressure washing too. After two days of struggling with it, I brightened it and stained it. It’s blotchy…I probably put the stain on too heavy. Just purchased a larger patio rug to cover most of the surface.
You have mentioned to some folks who haven’t been happy with their finished product that they should “lightly” clean in a year and restain. How do you “lightly” clean? You’ve mentioned to others that they’ve already put down a good base coat…but again…don’t you have to go down to bare wood each time? I’m pretty frustrated at this point. Would appreciate advice on how to rectify this years mistakes. I’m a senior citizen, not sure how many more years I’m going to be able to scrub the surface of my deck, board by board,
Stripping is just as easy as cleaning but gets the old stain off fully, down to the bare wood. Lightly cleaning and recoating is when you clean off dirt and grime and coat over top. It may be easier for you to strip and recot. That way there will not be any blotchiness.
Is the stripper harder on landscaping? Is it going to take a brush to clean every board again when I use the stripper? Or is it spray on, power wash off (which was what I was hoping for with the cleaner on a deck that has only had RAD products used on it)? The scrubbing every board is a killer at this age!
Spray on and pressure wash off. Very easy.
I’m getting ready to use your product to redo my deck using cleaner/ brightner and the semi transparant stain , Light walnut. but I need to replace to few feet of boards, Question is should I get treated or untreated wood?
You should buy the same wood type that you already have.
300 sq ft deck floor and last used Flood SWF Solid Covering about 5-7 years ago. Deck is 30 years old. Have power washed and ready for next steps as want to use RAD solid color Restore a Deck. What do I do to prep well for this deck coating. Also best RAD product.
Post some pics in the comments, please.
Pics uploaded or so it says. Ellie
No pics. Make sure the file size of images are not too large.
picture
Use the Restore A Deck Stain stripper and pressure washing to help remove any loose/peeling stain. You can then cover the intact stain with our RAD Solid Stain.
so, I’ve never reapplied the semi-transparent after 1 year like I’ve seen mentioned a lot. I’ve just let it go for a few years and then refinished/ cleaned / basically stripped it down to bare natural wood color and then brighten before applying RAD again.
my question is, when we’re talking about reapplying a coat at 1 year and you say “clean” and reapply, are we talking a full on clean/strip down to the bare wood color again? or can we literally just clean the deck after 1 year and it will take another coat of semi-transparant RAD product?
(pic attached was completed yesterday using RAD cedar color semi-trans on redwood cedar decking)
Deck looks great. You can clean off dirt and apply a light coat as needed 1-2 years down the road.
30 year old cedar deck, well maintained, cleaned and brightened 1 week ago but weather is bad for one more week so cannot use my oil based stain until 2 weeks after cleaning and brightening completed. Do I need to brighten again just before staining or ok to good ahead at 2 week mark?
Just stain if within 2 weeks of prep as long as deck or wood is fre of dirt.
I’m just using the cleaner, Do I need to add the booster or thickner as well?
The Booster and Gel only work when added to the Stripper.
Thanks for clarifying that .🙂
We have a cabin in the mountains of WV with a large deck wrapping around the cabin (ca 1200 sq. ft.) made of pressure-treated pine, some of it only a few years old and some of it perhaps 15 or more years old. It was originally stained with a solid SW stain, and then stained again last October with a Cabot solid stain. After one winter the stain is peeling badly, especially on the older portion of the deck. I suspect the painter did not properly prepare before staining last October. (Please see the pictures). We would like to try again and change the color. Can you please advise a) whether to strip, sand, scrape or otherwise prepare before restaining, and b) how many coats of your solid stain would be necessary. Also the above square footage does not include the railing which is about 150 feet long and 40″ high. Please advise about how much product we would need. Thanks.
Bad prep cannot be fixed by adding more stain on top so you should remove as much as possible of the peeling stain. Strip and or sand until you are down to bare wood or old stain that is fully intact and not peeling. You will need two coats of stain. about 15-20 gallons for this larege deck and railings.
Based on the photos, can you recommend whether to strip, sand or scrape? Can we just uses the stripping product where the paint is peeling and not adhering or would it need to be applied everywhere? That would be a lot of stripping gel, yes?
There is no easy way about this as your prior contractor made it worse. Best to power sand or strip all the horizontals as much as possible. Our RAD PaintStrip would work well for this if you want to go the stripping route.
Which we may do! If however we sand, can you tell me what grit of sand paper should be used?
60-80 grit.
I underestimated how much stain to order so it’ll be a few days until I finish my project. the deck previously had RAD semi-trans stain on it, 8 year old cedar, deck was cleaned/stripped/brightened yesterday 5/30, my question is if it’ll feasibly be until next tue-wed until I am able to apply the stain, should I do anything to the wood besides a quick hose down to get the dusty dog prints off the deck from now until then?
No issues. Try to stain within 2 weeks of prep.
thanks. I just placed another order for more stain, I’m in Illinois so pretty quick transit times from you guys in MI! thanks as always! great products and outstanding customer support over the years using your stuff!
You are welcome!
I just did my lower deck with RAD solid gray and it’s awesome! Now we decided the balcony is going to be done so 2 questions. 1- I assume I should strip and brighten like my lower deck since it’s treated with 2 year old Cabot natural timber oil and not just go solid RAD over it? 2- If stripping can I protect lower deck by keeping wet? Area is very large and would not be possible to cover.
1. Yes, for best results that is correct.
2. No, you would have to cover it if you strip. You may be able to get away with the cleaner and pressure washing. Post some pics.
This is the worst of it in the more shaded area
Use the RAD Cleaner and pressure washing to prep, and then use the RAD Stain after.😀
Add booster and thickener? No brightener?
Thanks for all the advice, customer for life
Booster and gel only work for the stripper. Brightener after the cleaning.
I used your materials last year to restore our deck. I would like to restore the dark beams inside my house to their original color. They are 50 years old do not have any stain on them. Is it okay to use your clean and brighten chemicals on these beams. I plan on rinsing with a rag and a bucket of water. Would that be adequate rinse or what would you suggest?
Sorry but no, we would not suggest them to be used indoors.
I followed all the steps indicated by each product (stain remover with booster, brightener, and stain wet on wet application) and still did not get an even result. As you can see in the picture, the result is uneven, and it is evident that I was staining small sections (as recommended) since you can see where each of the sections starts and ends. Any specific reasons this happened? Did I make any mistakes? Is there any way I can even out the deck?
Note: The stripper and brightener are outstanding products. I was truly impressed with how well they performed in removing the stain and getting the wood ready for the stain
When staining you should go end to end with the deck boards, not stop in the middle and then restart later. This will create overlaps as you can see in your picture. This cannot be evened out outside of stripping the floor and starting over. There is a good chance it will even out over the next month and look more uniform after full cure and some UV.