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07/04/2021
HI i have roughly a 1415 sq ft deck to stain. old stain was oil and should come off easy since most of the deck is in the sun and is faded. How much stain est. would i need? there is no railings. Thank you
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain 1 Gallon
4
Ratings
1
Shopper Review
$40.99
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain: Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut, Cottage GrayNote: Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood.
COTTAGE GRAY GALLONS ARE ON SALE - $5 0FF!
Stain and Prep on the Same Day!
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain protects wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain.
RAD Semi-Transparent Wood and Deck Stain will increase the life, appearance, and durability of all exterior wood surfaces. With the easy-to-apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you'll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.
WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is intended for all wood types of weathered, exterior wood surfaces including decks, fences, siding, outdoor furniture, gazebos, and playsets. You can apply Restore-A-Deck Premium Wood Stain to hardwoods including mahogany, ipe, or other types of exotic hardwoods.
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied the same day as the prep. Make sure that all standing water has dried off the surface after prep. Typically 2-4 hours at 70º F and less than 50% humidity.
Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood.
New Wood Note: New wood is not the same as "damp" wood and needs to weather and be prepped before staining. Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
Coverage:
RAD Wood Deck Stain applies at about 100-200 feet per gallon. Actual coverage varies depending on wood porosity.
Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips
- Applying RAD Stain Wet on Wet Tips
- How To Apply RAD Stain to Damp Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood
- Restore-A-Deck Stain Hot Sun Application
- RAD Two-Toned Wood Decks
ADVANTAGES
- Stain the same day as the prep!
- Utilizing the latest advancements in water-based stain technology
- Cost-effective stain and sealer for your wood
- Deep penetration into the wood grain resulting in less chance of wear and tear
- Protects wood from damaging UV oxidation and graying
- Available in 4 beautiful semi-transparent finishes – Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, & Dark Walnut
- For use on all exterior wood types and surfaces, not just decks
- Eco-Safe
- Dries to a flat, natural-looking finish
- Water-based, easy cleanup
- Easy to reapply as needed
- Easy to remove if needed
- Does not promote mold/mildew growth
- Low VOC content, compliant with all US states and Canada
| Gallon Sizes: |
| 1's and 5's |
| Coats Required: |
| 1-2 Coats |
| Coverage Per Gallon: |
| 100-200 sq. ft |
| Temperature: |
| 45-95 F |
| Application Tools: |
| Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller |
| Dry Time: |
| 4-8 Hours |
| Cleanup: |
| Soap and Water |
| VOC Compliant: 50 |
| Compliant in all States |
| More Info: |
| Product Data Sheet |
Reviews
Wednesday, 20 December 2017
Awesome deck stain. Prepped the wood and 2 hours later we stained the deck. All done in half a day!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI live in Northeast Ohio in the "snow belt." 6 years ago, I used Sickkens oil based semi-transparent on my pressure treated deck. I used Olympic Premier Deck Cleaner with a pressure washer which removed about 90% of the finish. I sanded the entire deck with an orbital sander using 60 grit, which further removed the remaining finish. The boards look clean and ready to be refinished.
I'd like to use the Restore, water based light walnut. Is there anything else I need to do at this point?-
We will reply to your comment shortlyClean and brighen the wood for final prep.
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHow do I apply the stain? Will paint brushes work? Or rollers?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyStain pads or brushes for the semi-transparent stain. Do not roll.https://www.restore-a-deck.com/decktools.html
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI need a little advice and a pep talk on tackling the stain application on my 16' square pergola. I'm working alone and it took me 25 hours to strip and brighten it and, while it isn't perfect, by golly I'm calling Steps 1 and 2 done. According to RAD stain directions, I need to do verticals first (one coat), then horizontals (two coats), and make sure to finish the entire length of each board while the stain is still wet. First of all, isn't pretty much everything here a vertical, except for the tops of the upper boards and the lower surface of the detailing around the sides? Second, with all of the crisscrossed boards I've got, standing on a tall ladder, climbing up and down between the rafters, should I be working from the top down, or the bottom up? Whichever direction, should I do all one layer at a time? E.g. if top down, then do all the narrow top boards first, then the 2 x 10 rafters, then the sides and detailing below that, then the posts? If I do topmost boards first, is it best to do all four surfaces at the same time, or wait and do the bottom surface when I'm doing the rafters just below them? Finally I'm not going to be able to keep the wood damp during the entire application process because I just won't be able to work fast enough. I've got a window of 3-4 hours in the morning before the sun hits it, and another 3 hours in the evening after the sun falls behind the house.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyJust do each board top down and do all sides and then move on to the next section/board. It is not that hard and you will get the hang if it shortly.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyApplied stain on 12 month old wood. Used provided brush. I'm not sure why there are so many horizontal lines along the wood? I also have some spots where the stain dripped off the brush and apparently wasn't spread fast enough and spots are now visble. Also some areas (such as by stairs as pictured) are very dark compared to the rest of the deck. I spread the stain pretty quickly and what seemed to be evenly so I'm not sure why any of this happened. I was kind of running out of stain and maybe didn't apply enough. I'm hoping another coat can remedy these issues?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIt is because you did not rinse the wood brightener fully/correctly. See picture. Unfortunately, you cannot add another coating on top once the first coat has cured and adding another coating would not fix it anyhow. You would have to strip and start over.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyOk so I REALLY have to rinse brightener off with a hose, I didn't cut the time short. Would applying more stain without stripping just make it darker? Do I need to strip, brighten and retain or just strip and stain again?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyPressure wash rinse is the correct way, not just a light hose rinse. You cannot apply another coat on top of this coat, it will not take now. Strip and then brighten.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIf that's the correct way then why is that not stated in the instructions? Pretty frustrating. I would have used my pressure washer if it was indicated that was the recommended way. Now I need to repurchase and apply everything again?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIt does state to rinse very well for 30 minutes after applying the brightener and flood the area. This was not done correctly and is why you are having this issue as the acid in the brightener reacted with the stain. Using a pressure washer is just much easier but a garden hose would have worked as well if you flooded correctly.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWe're looking at the idea of a company coming out to seal the deck with a product they say will penetrate the wood and keep the boards from splitting over time (we have a 20 yr old deck and have replaced a few boards already. They don't do coloring, they say we can stain after 6 months or so. Do you see any issue with your product being used over a deck treated like this after proper cleaning and brightening?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHello,
Their coatings, in our opinion, are a gimmick and will not help or do much. They claim that the silicone in the product will react with alkali in the wood, creating an internal bond. Problem is there very little to no alkali in wood. Works great for concrete, not so much on wood. Do not waste your money.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI used bleach to get rid of stubborn algae on my shed cedar facia board years ago. The facia board grayed over time. How do I prepare that board for staining? The roof is metal so spraying around it would be tricky. Would I use a particular cleaner? Brightener? How would I apply it. Already have the stripper and brightener for my front gate project- but wanted to know what to do to this facia board on my shed to bring it back to life?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyCleaner and Brightener for this while pressure washing.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have a small deck porch made of iron wood. I’d like to restore it to the original finish which is the cherry color that the door mat has protected in contrast to the now grey color (see pics). What stain would you recommend to go along the rest of the RAD products needed?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyFor prep, strip and brighten all. Stain with the RAD Stain in Light Walnut color.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHow do I use Restore A Deck products on outdoor wood furniture. I plan on sanding first.
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We will reply to your comment shortlySame as you would on a deck. Just follow the directions on the containers.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI am looking to restain my redwood deck - part new, part old and last coated with Cabots Australian Timber Oil. I have a few quick questions:
1. I am having it professionally done and they are planning to do their own cleaning/stripping/sanding to prep for your water based product. Is there anything specific they should know for use of the RAD stain? Best practices for stripping or sandpaper grit to get the best penetration?2. I really like the color of the redwood and don't want to cover it up too much - which color option would be best for this application?3. The deck is approx 440 sq ft, accounting for 10-15% overage for ends, vertical surfaces, etc. How much product will I need?4. I had seen a 2.5 gallon offering on another website, but don't see that here. Is this amount something you still offer?
Thank you!-
We will reply to your comment shortly1. Make sure to not sand finer than 60-80 grit and if you sand, brighten after. Just one coat of stain when the wood has been sanded.2. Natural is the lightest tint, similar to a wet look. You will need about 3-4 gallons for one coat. Coverage varies based on porosity. We do not offer the 2.5-gallon containers for sale and we are the only site that sells the RAD Stain.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWhat should be used to brighten after sanding?
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWould your stripper also take off the old oil stain? It doesn't specifically say it removes oil based stains.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI may just buy your stripper/brightener combo kit with 5 gallons of stain. I won't need the cleaner if I use the stripper, correct? It's more than I need, and more than I planned to spend on materials but sounds like it will provide the best option for my needs. Should the deck be powerwashed, then sanded, then stripped, then brightened, then stained? Want to make sure I tell these guys the correct method and order for your products.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyNo need for cleaner if you are stripping. Steps are correct.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyOil based semi-transparent, yes. Not solid color deck stains.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWe have an ipe deck previously treated with DeckWise Ipe Oil. Are there any problems using a water based product on ipe previously treated with an oil based product? Also, if using Restore-A-Deck on ipe, which color stain is recommended?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou have to remove the IPE Oil first. Use the RAD stripper/brightener kits. Most use the RAD stain in Light Walnut for IPE.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyCan RAD semi-transparent stain be applied to a 1yr old cedar fence (no previous stain) without cleaning and brightening before staining the fence? The three step process for a fence that is as long as ours would be too labor intensive. We use RAD for our deck and do the three step process, but for our fence it would be too much process.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyNo, you must prep. You have to remove oxidation prior to staining with any brand of stain.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyhow many coats for an aged cedar deck?
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyTwo days ago I refinished a deck with RAD natural semi-transparent stain. There are some spatters of stain onto white vinyl siding. How can I remove the spatters without damaging the siding? Thank you.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyTry Goof Off. Water based version. Do a test spot to make sure there is not a reaction with vinyl.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHi, can you tell me if RAD semi-transparent deck stain has a UV protectant in it. I haven't been able to find the ingredients specifically, I've only read that recent advancements have allowed the deck stain to contain UV protection. I need that because 2 sides of the deck get a lot of sun during the day. Thank you.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, it does.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI would like my fence and swing set to look the same color. Leaning towards Light Walnut. Will cedar wood cause certain colors to appear more orange than if applied to pine?
My fence is PT pine (5 year old never treated) and Swing Set is 6 yr old with a water based semi trans cedar stain applied by manufacturer.-
We will reply to your comment shortlyCedar and pine will not stain the same, but will be very close. You will have to remove all previous coatings first.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWhat do I do with a puddle that didn’t soak in, and dried on top of the deck?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou cannot spot fix this after it dried. Just leave as is.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI used your stain to refinish my deck last spring, and it looks amazing. I had such a good experience that I want to use your stain to refinish my fence now as well. It is a very old fence, and I intend to clean and brighten, just as I did with the deck last year. I have about 1400 sq feet of fence to stain. There is no stain on the fence now, and I'm not looking to drastically change the color of the fence, so I intend to use either the natural or cedar shade. I used the light walnut on my deck last year, and even though I love it, it definitely turned out darker than I thought it would. Do you recommend one or two coats of stain for my fence and how much stain do you think I'll need? Thanks so much.
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We will reply to your comment shortly2 coats applied wet on wet. About 15 gallons.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThank you. And will I need 3 packs of cleaner and brightener then? Also, what do you recommend as the best way to apply the stain to the fence?
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We will reply to your comment shortly2 of each will work. Apply with a stain pad or brush.https://www.restore-a-deck.com/decktools.html
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have purchased the cedar semi transparent and I love the result on my fence! Thanks... I am now looking forward to re-stain my deck. As far as maintenance of the fence, next year do I need to clean/brighten and then stain one coat again? What about for the many years after, is it the same process? If so, is there a need to use the stripper again at some point? Thanks
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, clean and brighten for prep whence you need to re-coat. Probably do not need to strip but you can.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI've got a little less than 500 sq feet (unfortunately used 4 gallons of Thompsons semi transparent wood protector last year) and after multiple pressure washings, some citri-strip, and sanding have got almost all off. I was planning to use the light walnut semi-transparent. Will the 5 gallon kit with cleaner/brightener work for me?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIt would cover 500 sq feet.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThank you for the reply! Is one coat all I will need? Also when staining with the semi transparent, can I cut in around stone and then finish the boards? (worried about lap marks)
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We will reply to your comment shortly1-2 coats depending on how porous the wood is. You can cut in but you have to work fast to finish the floor so it does not leave lap marks.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyLast question. I purchased the 5 gallon kit this AM. I was planning to wait and see how that looks before purchasing a second coat. Will the colors match well enough to do that? Thanks again for your time!!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIf you do a second coat, it has to be applied wet on wet. It cannot be applied days or weeks later: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-wet-on-wet-application.html
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We will reply to your comment shortlyJust want to add that these products are awesome and work as advertised!! See pics below of deck after cleaning/brightening, and after staining with semi-transparent light walnut. I will be using RAD from now on!!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyLooks great!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyExisting deck, at least 10 years old. Last year was completely sanded and sealed with Thompsons. This year, still looking good but, naturally needs another sealing. Wood still looks nice and bright. What prep is required if I want to use your semi-transparent stain?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyStrip and brighten to fully remove the Thompsons first.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI’m planning to re-stain my patio floor. The previous owner of my house left a half used container of you semi-transparent cedar stain. It looks darker to me than the example you have on your website. I would say it looks more like dark walnut. I’m adding photos of what the patio currently looks like.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIt could be cedar that just darkened from dirt, etc. Best to prep with the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kit and then apply one coat of the RAD in Cedar.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyRight, I plan to do all of that. Does one gallon cover 100 sq ft?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI last stained my deck in 2011 using Pittsburgh Paints "Ultra advanced semi-transparent" stain. My deck is now about 26 years old. I plan to do the whole RAD strip, brighten, & stain process and product. The horizontal surface of my deck is about 225 sq ft, I also have 12 steps, and the rail and slats are also wood. The steps and horizontal decking are very porous. I think I would only need one bag of each of the stripper and brightener. I plan to use the RAD semi transparent stain and plan to brush it on - 2 coats. How much stain will I need? and do you think 1 bag of stripper and brightener will be enough? Thanks
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We will reply to your comment shortlyPlease post some pictures here.
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyOne RAD Stripper and One RAD Brightener. Are you staining the lattice as well?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyNo, we are not going to stain the lattice.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWe need a total sq footage added up of all wood for stain amount needed. That would include the deck floor, rails, steps, outside edges, and lattice. Thanks.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyOk. I thought you would be able to give me an estimate based on the numbers I gave already and the photos showing what kind of railing and posts I have. So then I simply take that square footage and divide by 100 - 150 (2 coats per gallon) to get the number of gallons I'll need? Or is there something else I have to figure in yet?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, correct. If you add up the totals, let us know with that amount.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI just had new pressure treated railings installed on my deck a few weeks ago. The moisture content of the wood is between 10-12%. Will I need to use the cleaner and brightened both or just the Brit enter to open the pores? Or can I stain with your semi transparent without this step?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou cannot stain it yet. See here about new wood: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/restore-a-deck-stain-for-new-wood.html
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI had read this. Newly installed pressure treated wood is typically north of 20% moisture content. That’s the reason it needs to weather and dry. So what is the moisture % you recommend when it’s ok to stain. I have 5 year old wood on the house that never gets below 10% moisture here in the SE USA. So since I’m already there why not stain now?
Also should I dampen the wood with a light misting of water prior to staining?-
We will reply to your comment shortlyMoisture content is not the reason you weather new wood. It is about porosity and mill glaze and new wood is not porous enough. You cannot skip the weathering and prep process as explained in the article. All quality deck stains will require a proper weathering process and prep.
See here for damp wood application tips: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/Deck-Cleaning-Reviews-and-Tips/how-to-restore-a-deck-stain-to-damp-wood.html
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We will reply to your comment shortlyJust attempted 1st try of stripping our 20-year old, 15’ x 15’ cedar deck but am afraid “no rain/above 45 degrees” window is now closed here in Seattle for some months. In the meantime, I have these questions:
1. Deck was last stained in 2009, with Daly’s Cedar DeckStain, an alkyd resin base which Daly’s says is considered “transparent.” Can I expect the deck to accept your Dark Walnut stain after the stripping done so far?
2. Should I try re-stripping the darker, more weathered boards NOT under the overhang?
3. About 4 or 5 of the weathered boards have some gouges I hoped the Dark Walnut stain would help mask. If I instead replace them with new cedar, should I put the new boards on the deck, exposed to the weather for 6 months or so, before brightening/ staining the whole deck? Am confused because your article on new wood says “rough sawn cut wood does not need to weather.”
4. My jeans got soaked with your stripper solution. My wife is worried about putting them in the wash. Is that a problem?
Many thanks,
Robert A.-
We will reply to your comment shortly1. We would need to see a picture after the Step 2 brightener is applied to determine if the wood is ready or not to be stained.
2. Not sure if that is an old stain or if the brightener will remove the darker spots. See #1.
3. The stain will not make gauges as it is semi-transparent. New wood will need to weather and be prepped. In addition, new wood will stain lighter in color as it is less absorbent.
4. It should not be.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI applied this product a couple months ago and it looks very faded on the flat part of the deck. What should I do?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyNo need to do anything at this point. You can lightly clean and add another coat next Spring if you would like.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI used your products, stripper, brightener, semi-transparent stain on my full sun section of my old deck with great results. I'm having more trouble on the partial shade side.
In Maryland we have a 20 year old deck, with unknown wood and a lot of mildew. It was stripped of stain 5+ years ago.
I did stripper, sanding, cleaner, and brightener and then it was rainy for three days. I'm wondering about areas which look as though mildew has come back or remains. I'm also worried about how hard the wood feels. In areas I'd like to sand it remains very hard and impervious. At first I thought it was mildew that wouldn't allow sandpaper to grip, but after all the cleanings it remains.
50 and 60- grit sandpaper on a hand sander seems to stay on the surface and not sand at all. These photos are after all process listed above.
Thanks for all your help.-
We will reply to your comment shortlyIt looks like an internal discoloration of the wood. Did you pressure wash after applying the cleaner? Brightener was applied right away after cleaning to neutralize?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, there was pressure washing for rinsing the cleaner and brightener. The brightener was applied on the same day but it might not have been right away. The cleaner may have sat for a while as well. I was multi-tasking with kids about.
I don't mind about discoloration as long as it won't impact the wood's ability to accept stain.
I was planning on one coat of semi transparent because some places had a lot of sanding.
Any thoughts on how hard the wood seems to be?
Thanks!-
We will reply to your comment shortlyYou can stain it and it will not harm the stain in any way.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThanks
Anything I can do to prevent that in the last section of deck I haven't started yetor is it a function of long term mildew?
If I lightly sand after brightener do I have to re apply brightener or just rinse the deck before staining?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyBest to brighten all after sanding. It does not look like mildew.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWe have a deck and a wheelchair ramp. The deck is covered by a roof, and the wood is not treated. The ramp is not under the roof, and was built with treated wood. Can I use this product on both?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWe need two containers of stain to cover the deck. Do we need to mix them together before staining to account for color variation?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou should be okay to not mix.
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