Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain 1 Gallon

$45.99
free shipping with ground services
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain: Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut, Cottage Gray

Note: Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood.

COTTAGE GRAY GALLONS ARE ON SALE - $5 0FF!

Stain Color
 Back to: Restore A Deck Wood Stain

Stain and Prep on the Same Day!

RAD Stain Steps

Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain protects wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.

Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain.

RAD Semi-Transparent Wood and Deck Stain will increase the life, appearance, and durability of all exterior wood surfaces. With the easy-to-apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you'll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.

WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is intended for all wood types of weathered, exterior wood surfaces including decks, fences, siding, outdoor furniture, gazebos, and playsets. You can apply Restore-A-Deck Premium Wood Stain to hardwoods including mahogany, ipe, or other types of exotic hardwoods. 

Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied the same day as the prep. Make sure that all standing water has dried off the surface after prep. Typically 2-4 hours at 70º F and less than 50% humidity.

Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. 

New Wood Note: New wood is not the same as "damp" wood and needs to weather and be prepped before staining. Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood

Coverage:
RAD Wood Deck Stain applies at about 100-200 feet per gallon. Actual coverage varies depending on wood porosity.

Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips

ADVANTAGES

  • Stain the same day as the prep!
  • Utilizing the latest advancements in water-based stain technology
  • Cost-effective stain and sealer for your wood
  • Deep penetration into the wood grain resulting in less chance of wear and tear
  • Protects wood from damaging UV oxidation and graying
  • Available in 4 beautiful semi-transparent finishes – Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, & Dark Walnut
  • For use on all exterior wood types and surfaces, not just decks
  • Eco-Safe
  • Dries to a flat, natural-looking finish
  • Water-based, easy cleanup
  • Easy to reapply as needed
  • Easy to remove if needed
  • Does not promote mold/mildew growth
  • Low VOC content, compliant with all US states and Canada

Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Stain Color Chart

14ptWARNING: This product can expose you to Ethylene oxide, which is known to the State of California to cause birth defects or other reproductive harm, and Cumene, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer. For more information, go to www.p65Warnings.ca.gov

Gallon Sizes:
1's and 5's
Coats  Required:
1-2 Coats
Coverage Per Gallon:
100-200 sq. ft
Temperature:
45-95 F
Application Tools:
Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time:
4-8 Hours
Cleanup:
Soap and Water
VOC Compliant: 50
Compliant in all States
More Info:
Product Data Sheet

Reviews

Wednesday, 20 December 2017

Awesome deck stain. Prepped the wood and 2 hours later we stained the deck. All done in half a day!

RAD Products

Please log in to write a review. Log in

Ask a Question or Post a Picture...
You are guest ( Sign Up ? )
or post as a guest
Loading comment... The comment will be refreshed after 00:00.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jessi B · 09/11/2021
    Looking for guidance on cleaner vs stripper for my deck. (photos attached) The spindles & railings still have stain on them but the horizontal boards don't. The stain left on the spindles is TWP. I am planning to use RAD semi-transparent. Do I use stripper on all of it? The last time I went a little rogue with the pressure washer and I would like to sand some of the furry areas I left behind on spindles. What is the recommended order that I do things as far as sanding? Also, I have an opened bag of brightener from 2-3 years ago that isn't mixed up. Is that still any good? Thank you! - Jessi 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/12/2021
      Stripper on rails and cleaner on floors. Sand after. Brightener last. The 2-3 year old bag should be okay to use.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Jessi B · 09/12/2021
        Great! Thank you. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Dac · 08/30/2021
    Given that this is a semi-transparent stain, what percentage of UV protection should I expect? Very little, some, or? The product description says it protects from UV oxidation and graying, however this is a semi-transparent stain, and they typically provide very little if any UV protection at all. 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/30/2021
      It will protect from UV fading for about 2-3 years on a deck and twice as long on vertical wood like fences and wood siding.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Marcus H · 08/27/2021
    My deck is about 300 sqft with a 10'x10' section that steps down to a 14'x14' section. There are also 3 steps that are 4' wide in addition to the two sections. I am only going to be using this on the deck floor for the surfaces mentioned. It is new pressure treated yellow pine that I installed in April so following what I've read, I should only need 1 coat of the stain after doing the prep. Will 3 gallons of dark walnut be enough? Also, do the cleaner and brightener have to be applied using a sprayer or is there another method that also works?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/27/2021
      Prep products is applied with a pump sprayer and then pressure washed off. 2-3 gallons will be enough for the 1 coat.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Joe K · 08/22/2021
    I applied the semi-transparent light walnut stain to a large cedar deck (over 600 SQ"). The deck is approximately 11-months old and the prep (cleaner/brightener) was done 3-weeks prior. 
    Unfortunately, weather forecast has been challenging and I finally had a small window to apply the stain with a period of 24 hours of no forecasted rain. I knew I was pushing the prep-to-stain timeline so I decided to go with the staining with temperatures around 85 degrees F and the day turned out to be full sun to overcast during the last hour of the application.  
    I applied the stain with a low pressure garden sprayer and a high quality pole mounted 12" stain pad that I kept wet using a large roller pan. I maintained wet-on-wet and typically did 2-boards at-a-time with the grain, the entire length (about 60'). The stain pad worked well allowing pressure against the wood and the ability to back brush leaving the surface consistent with no pooling. I was very cautions to not over-apply and have any pooling.
    The color and consistency of the deck looks awesome but the next day, I have some concerns that I might have made the mistake to not have pre-misted the deck surface with water. One reason that I did not pre-mist was the overall size, knowing that by the time I was halfway through, the surface would be long dry and with the caution to pick a day with no subsequent rain, I certainly didn't want to mist boards with spray getting on adjacent stained boards. 
    24-hours after the application, the surface is not tacky to the touch but it is slightly tacky when walking on it. I have read other posts and realize this will go away as the stain cures. I am wondering if the fact that the surface is slightly tacky 24-hours later, if this is a good sign that I did not experience flash-drying from the heat and sun? I did find that if I dripped some product on an adjacent unstained board that waiting as little as a few minutes to coat over would not always hide the splatter. Also, very surprising to me 24-hours later in the last section of deck that I did, there is a very distinct shadow through about 20-boards (perpendicular) that resembles the shadow of the top 2x6 railing, perfectly straight down the deck about 6" wide. The area is lighter in color and appears to have perhaps absorbed the stain into the wood more. Thinking back, we do not remember the sun providing a shadow at the time of application and actually believe it was cloudy at that point. I am wondering if the sun had just heated up the deck at this point with the exception of where the top railing was shading the wood? Can you help me with an explanation as this pattern certainly was not showing during the application and obviously is not from the stain being applied differently in this area.
    And if I have experienced differences in the penetration of the stain due to temperature, am I destined for problems such as future peeling? Again, I was careful to not overapply and there was no pooling and I have a slightly tacky surface 24-hours after applying.
    Lastly, I am assuming with this cedar deck (11-months seasoned), that I do not need to apply a second coat of semi-transparent stain as might be needed with a solid stain.
    Thank you for your thoughts on this.
    -Joe
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/23/2021
      24 hours later and still slightly tacky just means it has not had a chance to fully cure. Not sure about the shadowing but it is possible it flash dried in full sun compared to where the shadows are. When you are in full sun and the deck is hot, the temp of the wood is actually much hotter than the air temp. In your scenario the wood was well over 100 degrees and this can cause flash drying and is why we suggest applying to a damp deck. It should not lead to peeling issues.
      You cannot apply a second coat at this point. You can in 9-12 months after a light cleaning.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jason · 08/21/2021
    Is there a measurement for how much square footage is recommended per gallon?I have a pretty small deck (177.5 sq ft) and want to make sure 1 gallon of stain is enough
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/21/2021
      For 2 coats you will need about 2 gallons.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Jason · 08/21/2021
        Is it recommended to do 2 coats for this stain? How long would you expect 1 vs. 2 coats to last for (on average)
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 08/22/2021
          Two coats are needed unless the wood is new.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Bob · 08/17/2021
    What is the self life of the semi-transparent dark walnut?   I think an unopened 5 gallon can has been in my garage for 3 years.  
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/18/2021
      About 3 years. Open and make sure it is 100% fluid and not clumpy.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Chundo McFay · 08/15/2021
    Can different colors be mixed? I'd like something between the cottage grey and cedar.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Maria Taylor · 08/12/2021
    I would like to stain a pressure-treated pine covered-porch floor that is about 10 years old and has never had any stain or paint. It has only been weathered by blown-in rain and snow, and hosed off on rare occasions. Would it be considered to be weathered from that after 10 years, or still pretty-much new wood? What should we do to prepare it, and how many coats of the semi-transparent stain should we apply?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/13/2021
      It is not new wood now. For prep, use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener. Stain with two coats of the stain.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    mike · 08/03/2021
    after first coat seems to be some tacky spots will this go way with the summer sun and hot weather?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Steve C · 08/03/2021
    For a an old deck pressure treated deck (30+ years), do you suggest brushing or spraying as the way to achieve best results?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Mike · 08/02/2021
    What is best way to remove the semi transparent stain from the vinyl siding? It has only a few days.The system work great just need to finish a couple of hard to reach spots, very happy so far!thanks
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Steve C · 08/02/2021
    Can Bug Juice be added to the semi-transparent stain with affecting its performance?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Joe Knoff · 08/01/2021
    We applied both the RAD cleaner and brighter to a 600 SQ’ cedar deck that was new 10-months ago. We have not yet applied the RAD light walnut semi-transparent stain.
    We maintained a wet surface during the application of the cleaner and scrubbed with a hard bristle brush. We worked the surface till the white/grey oxidation appeared gone.
    The area was thoroughly hosed off and the brightner was applied and also thoroughly hosed off. All directions were followed exactly as stated.
    The following morning after checking the dried deck you still see spots of white/grey especially around knots. The look is very consistent throughout the entire deck.
    Before applying the stain, do we need to reapply the cleaner/brighter to remove additional oxidation? Or will the light walnut semi-transparent stain provide a consistent coverage?
    Thank you for your help!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/02/2021
      It is normal for knots to be lighter in color after prep and even after staining. This is due to the density of the wood itself. Your prep looks good.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    WALT MCCORD · 07/27/2021
    DOES CYPRESS RAILING & CEDAR DECK LOOK GOOD TOGETHER OR BROWN OAK RAILING BETTER
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    NBrown · 07/24/2021
    How long does this stain last in caribbean rainy season type weather? Full sun and rain for 7 months. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ray · 07/22/2021
    On about 1/3 of the boards on my upper deck, I sanded off the old stain down to bare would.  After seeing how much work that was, I used the RAD Stripper,  followed up with the RAD Brightener.  I followed all the instructions, including "flooding for 30 minutes,"  using a pressure washer.  After that dried, I also sanded the entire surface using a 60 Grit Belt Sander & 60 Grit orbital.   I applied Light Walnut semi transparent to the entire deck, using "wet on wet" for two coats.  On the section where I did not use the RAD Stripper & Brightener,  the results were great (see photo).  On the section where RAD was Stripper & Brightener were used, I have a "chalk" like presence on the wood surface (see photos).
    What's strange is that not all of the boards that were treated with RAD Stripper & Brightener (see photo) were effected in this manner.

    What do I do now?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 07/22/2021
      Looks like you did not rinse the brightener well enough in those spots. See this article about this issue: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-rinse-a-wood-brightener-with-water/

      Does the "white" areas do away when wet with water?
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Ray · 07/22/2021
        Thanks for your quick reply.  The "white" areas does not go away when wet with water.  It appears to be part of the stain.   
        My rinse of the brightener consisted of each board being cleaned and rinsed with a pressure washer.  After that, I thoroughly "flooded" the entire area for more than the allotted time and once dried, I thoroughly sanded the entire area.  I'm really  baffled as to why this happened.
        Correct me if I am wrong, but it appears that I am going to have to strip this area of the deck and repeat the process?  If I do that, how can I be sure that this is not going to happen again?   Is there some way that I can neutralize the chemical effect other than just with water?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 07/22/2021
          Yes, it sounds like your brightener was still in the wood and it caused the reaction. It also seems that closer to the house was okay but as you get farther away, you start to see this happen. Was there possibly an issue where this was in full sun and you did not get a chance to rinse it out of the wood prior to drying?
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Ray · 07/22/2021
            The area closer to the house was not treated with the brightener.  I had sanded that area down to bare wood which made it look "new" so I didn't feel the need for it.  That's the area that came out great (in the first photo). 
            I treated it with the brightener late in the day when the sun is not hitting that area in "full sun."   Nothing had dried during this process, as I kept it damp with the excess that I had mixed in the pump sprayer.  
            Whatever caused this problem, I need to know what to do next.  It seems to me I am left with no other option other than to strip it again.  Any thoughts?
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 07/23/2021
              Before going down the road of stripping, do a test board with another coat of the stain to see if that will darken it evenly.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                Ray · 07/23/2021
                Thanks for your reply.  
                I will try that ... do you suggest I do a light sand just to rough up the surface slightly, or, should I just put another coat over it as is? 
                • We will reply to your comment shortly
                  RAD Products · 07/23/2021
                  A light hand sand with 80 grit would help with adhesion.
                  • We will reply to your comment shortly
                    Ray · 07/24/2021
                    Yesterday afternoon, I did a light sand with 80 grit on a test board and brushed on a light coating.  It seemed to have worked, so I decided to do the rest of the boards.  Checked it this morning and it looks great ... completely covered the problem. 
                    Thanks for all of your quick replies in helping me solve this problem.  I don't think I would have ever received this type of help from a box store. 
                    Thanks again!
                    • We will reply to your comment shortly
                      RAD Products · 07/24/2021
                      Great! Post some pictures when done.
                      • We will reply to your comment shortly
                        Ray · 07/24/2021
                        See attached photos.  Only one minor issue is that the boards closest to the house, which were not effected, are slightly lighter, so I may use the same "light hand sand" and add a light coat in order to even the color out.  Very happy with the result. 
                        The semi-transparent stain looks like a very durable product.

                        Now I have to start on my lower deck ... 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ricks Painting · 07/04/2021
    HI i have roughly a 1415 sq ft deck to stain. old stain was oil and should come off easy since most of the deck is in the sun and is faded. How much stain est.  would i need? there is no railings. Thank you
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 07/05/2021
      For two coats, about 12-15 gallons.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ray · 07/04/2021
    I live in Northeast Ohio in the "snow belt."  6 years ago, I used Sickkens oil based semi-transparent on my pressure treated deck.  I used Olympic Premier Deck Cleaner with a pressure washer which removed about 90% of the finish.  I sanded the entire deck with an orbital sander using 60 grit, which further removed the remaining finish.  The boards look clean and ready to be refinished. 
    I'd like to use the Restore, water based light walnut.  Is there anything else I need to do at this point?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 07/04/2021
      Clean and brighen the wood for final prep.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Tom · 06/29/2021
    Will you be adding a redwood color to your RAD semi-transparent stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/29/2021
      No, and most use the Light Walnut as this is a reddish-brown color.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    heckstorm1985 · 06/13/2021
    How do I apply the stain? Will paint brushes work? Or rollers?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Liz · 06/08/2021
    I need a little advice and a pep talk on tackling the stain application on my 16' square pergola. I'm working alone and it took me 25 hours to strip and brighten it and, while it isn't perfect, by golly I'm calling Steps 1 and 2 done. According to RAD stain directions, I need to do verticals first (one coat), then horizontals (two coats), and make sure to finish the entire length of each board while the stain is still wet. First of all, isn't pretty much everything here a vertical, except for the tops of the upper boards and the lower surface of the detailing around the sides? Second, with all of the crisscrossed boards I've got, standing on a tall ladder, climbing up and down between the rafters, should I be working from the top down, or the bottom up? Whichever direction, should I do all one layer at a time? E.g. if top down, then do all the narrow top boards first, then the 2 x 10 rafters, then the sides and detailing below that, then the posts? If I do topmost boards first, is it best to do all four surfaces at the same time, or wait and do the bottom surface when I'm doing the rafters just below them? Finally I'm not going to be able to keep the wood damp during the entire application process because I just won't be able to work fast enough. I've got a window of 3-4 hours in the morning before the sun hits it, and another 3 hours in the evening after the sun falls behind the house.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/08/2021
      Just do each board top down and do all sides and then move on to the next section/board. It is not that hard and you will get the hang if it shortly.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Alex · 06/07/2021
    Applied stain on 12 month old wood. Used provided brush. I'm not sure why there are so many horizontal lines along the wood? I also have some spots where the stain dripped off the brush and apparently wasn't spread fast enough and spots are now visble. Also some areas (such as by stairs as pictured) are very dark compared to the rest of the deck. I spread the stain pretty quickly and what seemed to be evenly so I'm not sure why any of this happened. I was kind of running out of stain and maybe didn't apply enough. I'm hoping another coat can remedy these issues? 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/07/2021
      It is because you did not rinse the wood brightener fully/correctly. See picture. Unfortunately, you cannot add another coating on top once the first coat has cured and adding another coating would not fix it anyhow. You would have to strip and start over.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Alex · 06/07/2021
        Ok so I REALLY have to rinse brightener off with a hose, I didn't cut the time short. Would applying more stain without stripping just make it darker? Do I need to strip, brighten and retain or just strip and stain again? 
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 06/07/2021
          Pressure wash rinse is the correct way, not just a light hose rinse. You cannot apply another coat on top of this coat, it will not take now. Strip and then brighten.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Alex · 06/07/2021
            If that's the correct way then why is that not stated in the instructions? Pretty frustrating. I would have used my pressure washer if it was indicated that was the recommended way. Now I need to repurchase and apply everything again? 
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 06/07/2021
              It does state to rinse very well for 30 minutes after applying the brightener and flood the area. This was not done correctly and is why you are having this issue as the acid in the brightener reacted with the stain. Using a pressure washer is just much easier but a garden hose would have worked as well if you flooded correctly.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lynne · 06/03/2021
    We're looking at the idea of a company coming out to seal the deck with a product they say will penetrate the wood and keep the boards from splitting over time (we have a 20 yr old deck and have replaced a few boards already. They don't do coloring, they say we can stain after 6 months or so. Do you see any issue with your product being used over a deck treated like this after proper cleaning and brightening?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/03/2021
      Hello,
      Their coatings, in our opinion, are a gimmick and will not help or do much. They claim that the silicone in the product will react with alkali in the wood, creating an internal bond. Problem is there very little to no alkali in wood. Works great for concrete, not so much on wood. Do not waste your money.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Don · 05/27/2021
    I used bleach to get rid of stubborn algae on my shed cedar facia board years ago. The facia board grayed over time. How do I prepare that board for staining? The roof is metal so spraying around it would be tricky. Would I use a particular cleaner? Brightener? How would I apply it. Already have the stripper and brightener for my front gate project- but wanted to know what to do to this facia board on my shed to bring it back to life?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/27/2021
      Cleaner and Brightener for this while pressure washing. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    John Baker · 05/27/2021
    I have a small deck porch made of iron wood. I’d like to restore it to the original finish which is the cherry color that the door mat has protected in contrast to the now grey color (see pics).  What stain would you recommend to go along the rest of the RAD products needed?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/27/2021
      For prep, strip and brighten all. Stain with the RAD Stain in Light Walnut color.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Larry · 05/26/2021
    How do I use Restore A Deck products on outdoor wood furniture. I plan on sanding first. 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/27/2021
      Same as you would on a deck. Just follow the directions on the containers.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Brad · 05/26/2021
    I am looking to restain my redwood deck - part new, part old and last coated with Cabots Australian Timber Oil. I have a few quick questions:
    1. I am having it professionally done and they are planning to do their own cleaning/stripping/sanding to prep for your water based product. Is there anything specific they should know for use of the RAD stain? Best practices for stripping or sandpaper grit to get the best penetration?2. I really like the color of the redwood and don't want to cover it up too much - which color option would be best for this application?3. The deck is approx 440 sq ft, accounting for 10-15% overage for ends, vertical surfaces, etc. How much product will I need?4. I had seen a 2.5 gallon offering on another website, but don't see that here. Is this amount something you still offer?
    Thank you!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/26/2021
      1. Make sure to not sand finer than 60-80 grit and if you sand, brighten after. Just one coat of stain when the wood has been sanded.2. Natural is the lightest tint, similar to a wet look. You will need about 3-4 gallons for one coat. Coverage varies based on porosity. We do not offer the 2.5-gallon containers for sale and we are the only site that sells the RAD Stain.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Brad · 05/26/2021
        What should be used to brighten after sanding?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Brad · 05/26/2021
            Would your stripper also take off the old oil stain? It doesn't specifically say it removes oil based stains.
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              Brad · 05/26/2021
              I may just buy your stripper/brightener combo kit with 5 gallons of stain. I won't need the cleaner if I use the stripper, correct? It's more than I need, and more than I planned to spend on materials but sounds like it will provide the best option for my needs. Should the deck be powerwashed, then sanded, then stripped, then brightened, then stained? Want to make sure I tell these guys the correct method and order for your products.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                RAD Products · 05/26/2021
                No need for cleaner if you are stripping. Steps are correct.
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 05/26/2021
              Oil based semi-transparent, yes. Not solid color deck stains.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ted Berge · 05/24/2021
    We have an ipe deck previously treated with DeckWise Ipe Oil.  Are there any problems using a water based product on ipe previously treated with an oil based product?  Also, if using Restore-A-Deck on ipe, which color stain is recommended?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/24/2021
      You have to remove the IPE Oil first. Use the RAD stripper/brightener kits. Most use the RAD stain in Light Walnut for IPE.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Corie · 05/20/2021
    Can RAD semi-transparent stain be applied to a 1yr old cedar fence (no previous stain) without cleaning and brightening before staining the fence?   The three step process for a fence that is as long as ours would be too labor intensive.  We use RAD for our deck and do the three step process, but for our fence it would be too much process. 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/20/2021
      No, you must prep. You have to remove oxidation prior to staining with any brand of stain.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    jim · 05/19/2021
    how many coats for an aged cedar deck?