Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain 1 Gallon
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain 1 Gallon
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain 1 Gallon
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Natural color
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain cedar color
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain light walnut color
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain dark walnut color
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain 1 Gallon
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain 1 Gallon Product Data Sheet

Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain 1 Gallon

4 Ratings 1 Shopper Review
$40.99
free shipping with ground services
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain: Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut, Cottage Gray

Note: Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood.

COTTAGE GRAY GALLONS ARE ON SALE - $5 0FF!

Stain Color
 Back to: Restore A Deck Wood Stain

Stain and Prep on the Same Day!

RAD Stain Steps

Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain protects wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.

Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain.

RAD Semi-Transparent Wood and Deck Stain will increase the life, appearance, and durability of all exterior wood surfaces. With the easy-to-apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you'll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.

WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is intended for all wood types of weathered, exterior wood surfaces including decks, fences, siding, outdoor furniture, gazebos, and playsets. You can apply Restore-A-Deck Premium Wood Stain to hardwoods including mahogany, ipe, or other types of exotic hardwoods. 

Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied the same day as the prep. Make sure that all standing water has dried off the surface after prep. Typically 2-4 hours at 70º F and less than 50% humidity.

Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. 

New Wood Note: New wood is not the same as "damp" wood and needs to weather and be prepped before staining. Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood

Coverage:
RAD Wood Deck Stain applies at about 100-200 feet per gallon. Actual coverage varies depending on wood porosity.

Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips

ADVANTAGES

  • Stain the same day as the prep!
  • Utilizing the latest advancements in water-based stain technology
  • Cost-effective stain and sealer for your wood
  • Deep penetration into the wood grain resulting in less chance of wear and tear
  • Protects wood from damaging UV oxidation and graying
  • Available in 4 beautiful semi-transparent finishes – Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, & Dark Walnut
  • For use on all exterior wood types and surfaces, not just decks
  • Eco-Safe
  • Dries to a flat, natural-looking finish
  • Water-based, easy cleanup
  • Easy to reapply as needed
  • Easy to remove if needed
  • Does not promote mold/mildew growth
  • Low VOC content, compliant with all US states and Canada

Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Stain Color Chart

Gallon Sizes:
1's and 5's
Coats  Required:
1-2 Coats
Coverage Per Gallon:
100-200 sq. ft
Temperature:
45-95 F
Application Tools:
Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time:
4-8 Hours
Cleanup:
Soap and Water
VOC Compliant: 50
Compliant in all States
More Info:
Product Data Sheet

Reviews

Wednesday, 20 December 2017

Awesome deck stain. Prepped the wood and 2 hours later we stained the deck. All done in half a day!

RAD Products

Please log in to write a review. Log in

Related
Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener KitRAD300_4cd1cb8e080ad.jpg

Restore A Deck Stain Stripper and Brightener KitRAD300_4cd1cb8e080ad.jpg

Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain 5 GallonsRestore-A-Deck Wood Stain 5 Gallons

Restore A Deck in A Day Stain Brush

Ask a Question or Post a Picture...
You are guest ( Sign Up ? )
or post as a guest
Loading comment... The comment will be refreshed after 00:00.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    WALT MCCORD · 07/27/2021
    DOES CYPRESS RAILING & CEDAR DECK LOOK GOOD TOGETHER OR BROWN OAK RAILING BETTER
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    NBrown · 07/24/2021
    How long does this stain last in caribbean rainy season type weather? Full sun and rain for 7 months. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ray · 07/22/2021
    On about 1/3 of the boards on my upper deck, I sanded off the old stain down to bare would.  After seeing how much work that was, I used the RAD Stripper,  followed up with the RAD Brightener.  I followed all the instructions, including "flooding for 30 minutes,"  using a pressure washer.  After that dried, I also sanded the entire surface using a 60 Grit Belt Sander & 60 Grit orbital.   I applied Light Walnut semi transparent to the entire deck, using "wet on wet" for two coats.  On the section where I did not use the RAD Stripper & Brightener,  the results were great (see photo).  On the section where RAD was Stripper & Brightener were used, I have a "chalk" like presence on the wood surface (see photos).
    What's strange is that not all of the boards that were treated with RAD Stripper & Brightener (see photo) were effected in this manner.

    What do I do now?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 07/22/2021
      Looks like you did not rinse the brightener well enough in those spots. See this article about this issue: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-rinse-a-wood-brightener-with-water/

      Does the "white" areas do away when wet with water?
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Ray · 07/22/2021
        Thanks for your quick reply.  The "white" areas does not go away when wet with water.  It appears to be part of the stain.   
        My rinse of the brightener consisted of each board being cleaned and rinsed with a pressure washer.  After that, I thoroughly "flooded" the entire area for more than the allotted time and once dried, I thoroughly sanded the entire area.  I'm really  baffled as to why this happened.
        Correct me if I am wrong, but it appears that I am going to have to strip this area of the deck and repeat the process?  If I do that, how can I be sure that this is not going to happen again?   Is there some way that I can neutralize the chemical effect other than just with water?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 07/22/2021
          Yes, it sounds like your brightener was still in the wood and it caused the reaction. It also seems that closer to the house was okay but as you get farther away, you start to see this happen. Was there possibly an issue where this was in full sun and you did not get a chance to rinse it out of the wood prior to drying?
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Ray · 07/22/2021
            The area closer to the house was not treated with the brightener.  I had sanded that area down to bare wood which made it look "new" so I didn't feel the need for it.  That's the area that came out great (in the first photo). 
            I treated it with the brightener late in the day when the sun is not hitting that area in "full sun."   Nothing had dried during this process, as I kept it damp with the excess that I had mixed in the pump sprayer.  
            Whatever caused this problem, I need to know what to do next.  It seems to me I am left with no other option other than to strip it again.  Any thoughts?
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 07/23/2021
              Before going down the road of stripping, do a test board with another coat of the stain to see if that will darken it evenly.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                Ray · 07/23/2021
                Thanks for your reply.  
                I will try that ... do you suggest I do a light sand just to rough up the surface slightly, or, should I just put another coat over it as is? 
                • We will reply to your comment shortly
                  RAD Products · 07/23/2021
                  A light hand sand with 80 grit would help with adhesion.
                  • We will reply to your comment shortly
                    Ray · 07/24/2021
                    Yesterday afternoon, I did a light sand with 80 grit on a test board and brushed on a light coating.  It seemed to have worked, so I decided to do the rest of the boards.  Checked it this morning and it looks great ... completely covered the problem. 
                    Thanks for all of your quick replies in helping me solve this problem.  I don't think I would have ever received this type of help from a box store. 
                    Thanks again!
                    • We will reply to your comment shortly
                      RAD Products · 07/24/2021
                      Great! Post some pictures when done.
                      • We will reply to your comment shortly
                        Ray · 07/24/2021
                        See attached photos.  Only one minor issue is that the boards closest to the house, which were not effected, are slightly lighter, so I may use the same "light hand sand" and add a light coat in order to even the color out.  Very happy with the result. 
                        The semi-transparent stain looks like a very durable product.

                        Now I have to start on my lower deck ... 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ricks Painting · 07/04/2021
    HI i have roughly a 1415 sq ft deck to stain. old stain was oil and should come off easy since most of the deck is in the sun and is faded. How much stain est.  would i need? there is no railings. Thank you
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ray · 07/04/2021
    I live in Northeast Ohio in the "snow belt."  6 years ago, I used Sickkens oil based semi-transparent on my pressure treated deck.  I used Olympic Premier Deck Cleaner with a pressure washer which removed about 90% of the finish.  I sanded the entire deck with an orbital sander using 60 grit, which further removed the remaining finish.  The boards look clean and ready to be refinished. 
    I'd like to use the Restore, water based light walnut.  Is there anything else I need to do at this point?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Tom · 06/29/2021
    Will you be adding a redwood color to your RAD semi-transparent stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/29/2021
      No, and most use the Light Walnut as this is a reddish-brown color.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    heckstorm1985 · 06/13/2021
    How do I apply the stain? Will paint brushes work? Or rollers?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Liz · 06/08/2021
    I need a little advice and a pep talk on tackling the stain application on my 16' square pergola. I'm working alone and it took me 25 hours to strip and brighten it and, while it isn't perfect, by golly I'm calling Steps 1 and 2 done. According to RAD stain directions, I need to do verticals first (one coat), then horizontals (two coats), and make sure to finish the entire length of each board while the stain is still wet. First of all, isn't pretty much everything here a vertical, except for the tops of the upper boards and the lower surface of the detailing around the sides? Second, with all of the crisscrossed boards I've got, standing on a tall ladder, climbing up and down between the rafters, should I be working from the top down, or the bottom up? Whichever direction, should I do all one layer at a time? E.g. if top down, then do all the narrow top boards first, then the 2 x 10 rafters, then the sides and detailing below that, then the posts? If I do topmost boards first, is it best to do all four surfaces at the same time, or wait and do the bottom surface when I'm doing the rafters just below them? Finally I'm not going to be able to keep the wood damp during the entire application process because I just won't be able to work fast enough. I've got a window of 3-4 hours in the morning before the sun hits it, and another 3 hours in the evening after the sun falls behind the house.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/08/2021
      Just do each board top down and do all sides and then move on to the next section/board. It is not that hard and you will get the hang if it shortly.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Alex · 06/07/2021
    Applied stain on 12 month old wood. Used provided brush. I'm not sure why there are so many horizontal lines along the wood? I also have some spots where the stain dripped off the brush and apparently wasn't spread fast enough and spots are now visble. Also some areas (such as by stairs as pictured) are very dark compared to the rest of the deck. I spread the stain pretty quickly and what seemed to be evenly so I'm not sure why any of this happened. I was kind of running out of stain and maybe didn't apply enough. I'm hoping another coat can remedy these issues? 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/07/2021
      It is because you did not rinse the wood brightener fully/correctly. See picture. Unfortunately, you cannot add another coating on top once the first coat has cured and adding another coating would not fix it anyhow. You would have to strip and start over.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Alex · 06/07/2021
        Ok so I REALLY have to rinse brightener off with a hose, I didn't cut the time short. Would applying more stain without stripping just make it darker? Do I need to strip, brighten and retain or just strip and stain again? 
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 06/07/2021
          Pressure wash rinse is the correct way, not just a light hose rinse. You cannot apply another coat on top of this coat, it will not take now. Strip and then brighten.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Alex · 06/07/2021
            If that's the correct way then why is that not stated in the instructions? Pretty frustrating. I would have used my pressure washer if it was indicated that was the recommended way. Now I need to repurchase and apply everything again? 
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 06/07/2021
              It does state to rinse very well for 30 minutes after applying the brightener and flood the area. This was not done correctly and is why you are having this issue as the acid in the brightener reacted with the stain. Using a pressure washer is just much easier but a garden hose would have worked as well if you flooded correctly.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lynne · 06/03/2021
    We're looking at the idea of a company coming out to seal the deck with a product they say will penetrate the wood and keep the boards from splitting over time (we have a 20 yr old deck and have replaced a few boards already. They don't do coloring, they say we can stain after 6 months or so. Do you see any issue with your product being used over a deck treated like this after proper cleaning and brightening?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/03/2021
      Hello,
      Their coatings, in our opinion, are a gimmick and will not help or do much. They claim that the silicone in the product will react with alkali in the wood, creating an internal bond. Problem is there very little to no alkali in wood. Works great for concrete, not so much on wood. Do not waste your money.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Don · 05/27/2021
    I used bleach to get rid of stubborn algae on my shed cedar facia board years ago. The facia board grayed over time. How do I prepare that board for staining? The roof is metal so spraying around it would be tricky. Would I use a particular cleaner? Brightener? How would I apply it. Already have the stripper and brightener for my front gate project- but wanted to know what to do to this facia board on my shed to bring it back to life?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/27/2021
      Cleaner and Brightener for this while pressure washing. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    John Baker · 05/27/2021
    I have a small deck porch made of iron wood. I’d like to restore it to the original finish which is the cherry color that the door mat has protected in contrast to the now grey color (see pics).  What stain would you recommend to go along the rest of the RAD products needed?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/27/2021
      For prep, strip and brighten all. Stain with the RAD Stain in Light Walnut color.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Larry · 05/26/2021
    How do I use Restore A Deck products on outdoor wood furniture. I plan on sanding first. 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/27/2021
      Same as you would on a deck. Just follow the directions on the containers.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Brad · 05/26/2021
    I am looking to restain my redwood deck - part new, part old and last coated with Cabots Australian Timber Oil. I have a few quick questions:
    1. I am having it professionally done and they are planning to do their own cleaning/stripping/sanding to prep for your water based product. Is there anything specific they should know for use of the RAD stain? Best practices for stripping or sandpaper grit to get the best penetration?2. I really like the color of the redwood and don't want to cover it up too much - which color option would be best for this application?3. The deck is approx 440 sq ft, accounting for 10-15% overage for ends, vertical surfaces, etc. How much product will I need?4. I had seen a 2.5 gallon offering on another website, but don't see that here. Is this amount something you still offer?
    Thank you!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/26/2021
      1. Make sure to not sand finer than 60-80 grit and if you sand, brighten after. Just one coat of stain when the wood has been sanded.2. Natural is the lightest tint, similar to a wet look. You will need about 3-4 gallons for one coat. Coverage varies based on porosity. We do not offer the 2.5-gallon containers for sale and we are the only site that sells the RAD Stain.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Brad · 05/26/2021
        What should be used to brighten after sanding?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 05/26/2021
          https://www.restore-a-deck.com/RAD-Brightener-Only.html
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Brad · 05/26/2021
            Would your stripper also take off the old oil stain? It doesn't specifically say it removes oil based stains.
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              Brad · 05/26/2021
              I may just buy your stripper/brightener combo kit with 5 gallons of stain. I won't need the cleaner if I use the stripper, correct? It's more than I need, and more than I planned to spend on materials but sounds like it will provide the best option for my needs. Should the deck be powerwashed, then sanded, then stripped, then brightened, then stained? Want to make sure I tell these guys the correct method and order for your products.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                RAD Products · 05/26/2021
                No need for cleaner if you are stripping. Steps are correct.
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 05/26/2021
              Oil based semi-transparent, yes. Not solid color deck stains.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ted Berge · 05/24/2021
    We have an ipe deck previously treated with DeckWise Ipe Oil.  Are there any problems using a water based product on ipe previously treated with an oil based product?  Also, if using Restore-A-Deck on ipe, which color stain is recommended?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/24/2021
      You have to remove the IPE Oil first. Use the RAD stripper/brightener kits. Most use the RAD stain in Light Walnut for IPE.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Corie · 05/20/2021
    Can RAD semi-transparent stain be applied to a 1yr old cedar fence (no previous stain) without cleaning and brightening before staining the fence?   The three step process for a fence that is as long as ours would be too labor intensive.  We use RAD for our deck and do the three step process, but for our fence it would be too much process. 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/20/2021
      No, you must prep. You have to remove oxidation prior to staining with any brand of stain.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    jim · 05/19/2021
    how many coats for an aged cedar deck?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    David A · 05/19/2021
    Two days ago I refinished a deck with RAD natural semi-transparent stain. There are some spatters of stain onto white vinyl siding. How can I remove the spatters without damaging the siding? Thank you.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/19/2021
      Try Goof Off. Water based version. Do a test spot to make sure there is not a reaction with vinyl.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Sonny · 05/17/2021
    Hi, can you tell me if RAD semi-transparent deck stain has a UV protectant in it. I haven't been able to find the ingredients specifically, I've only read that recent advancements have allowed the deck stain to contain UV protection. I need that because 2 sides of the deck get a lot of sun during the day. Thank you.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    JC · 05/13/2021
    I would like my fence and swing set to look the same color. Leaning towards Light Walnut. Will cedar wood cause certain colors to appear more orange than if applied to pine?

    My fence is PT pine (5 year old never treated) and Swing Set is 6 yr old with a water based semi trans cedar stain applied by manufacturer.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/13/2021
      Cedar and pine will not stain the same, but will be very close. You will have to remove all previous coatings first.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ken Ritter · 05/12/2021
    What do I do with a puddle that didn’t soak in, and dried on top of the deck?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 05/13/2021
      You cannot spot fix this after it dried. Just leave as is.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ethan · 05/07/2021
    I used your stain to refinish my deck last spring, and it looks amazing.  I had such a good experience that I want to use your stain to refinish my fence now as well.  It is a very old fence, and I intend to clean and brighten, just as I did with the deck last year.  I have about 1400 sq feet of fence to stain.  There is no stain on the fence now, and I'm not looking to drastically change the color of the fence, so I intend to use either the natural or cedar shade.  I used the light walnut on my deck last year, and even though I love it, it definitely turned out darker than I thought it would.  Do you recommend one or two coats of stain for my fence and how much stain do you think I'll need?  Thanks so much.  
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Florence · 04/23/2021
    I have purchased the cedar semi transparent and I love the result on my fence! Thanks... I am now looking forward to re-stain my deck. As far as maintenance of the fence, next year do I need to clean/brighten and then stain one coat again? What about for the many years after, is it the same process? If so, is there a need to use the stripper again at some point? Thanks
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 04/23/2021
      Yes, clean and brighten for prep whence you need to re-coat. Probably do not need to strip but you can. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    JohnB · 04/17/2021
    I've got a little less than 500 sq feet (unfortunately used 4 gallons of Thompsons semi transparent wood protector last year) and after multiple pressure washings, some citri-strip, and sanding have got almost all off. I was planning to use the light walnut semi-transparent. Will the 5 gallon kit with cleaner/brightener work for me? 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 04/18/2021
      It would cover 500 sq feet.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        JohnB · 04/18/2021
        Thank you for the reply! Is one coat all I will need? Also when staining with the semi transparent, can I cut in around stone and then finish the boards? (worried about lap marks) 
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 04/18/2021
          1-2 coats depending on how porous the wood is. You can cut in but you have to work fast to finish the floor so it does not leave lap marks. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Tammy · 04/09/2021
    Existing deck, at least 10 years old. Last year was completely sanded and sealed with Thompsons. This year, still looking good but, naturally needs another sealing.  Wood still looks nice and bright. What prep is required if I want to use your semi-transparent stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 04/10/2021
      Strip and brighten to fully remove the Thompsons first.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Eric · 04/07/2021
    I’m planning to re-stain my patio floor. The previous owner of my house left a half used container of you semi-transparent cedar stain. It looks darker to me than the example you have on your website. I would say it looks more like dark walnut. I’m adding photos of what the patio currently looks like.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 04/07/2021
      It could be cedar that just darkened from dirt, etc. Best to prep with the RAD Stripper and Brightener Kit and then apply one coat of the RAD in Cedar.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Kaye · 04/06/2021
    I last stained my deck in 2011 using Pittsburgh Paints "Ultra advanced semi-transparent" stain. My deck is now about 26 years old.  I plan to do the whole RAD strip, brighten, & stain process and product.  The horizontal surface of my deck is about 225 sq ft, I also have 12 steps, and the rail and slats are also wood.  The steps and horizontal decking are very porous. I think I would only need one bag of each of the stripper and brightener.  I plan to use the RAD semi transparent stain and plan to brush it on - 2 coats.  How much stain will I need? and do you think 1 bag of stripper and brightener will be enough?   Thanks
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 04/06/2021
      Please post some pictures here.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Kaye · 04/06/2021
        Photos
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 04/06/2021
          One RAD Stripper and One RAD Brightener. Are you staining the lattice as well? 
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Kaye · 04/06/2021
            No, we are not going to stain the lattice.
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 04/06/2021
              We need a total sq footage added up of all wood for stain amount needed. That would include the deck floor, rails, steps, outside edges, and lattice. Thanks.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                Kaye · 04/08/2021
                Ok. I thought you would be able to give me an estimate based on the numbers I gave already and the photos showing what kind of railing and posts I have.    So then I simply take that square footage and divide by 100 - 150 (2 coats per gallon) to get the number of gallons I'll need? Or is there something else I have to figure in yet?
                • We will reply to your comment shortly
                  RAD Products · 04/09/2021
                  Yes, correct. If you add up the totals, let us know with that amount.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Robert Covington · 03/31/2021
    I just had new pressure treated railings installed on my deck a few weeks ago. The moisture content of the wood is between 10-12%. Will I need to use the cleaner and brightened both or just the Brit enter to open the pores? Or can I stain with your semi transparent without this step?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Robert Arbios · 11/05/2020
    Just attempted 1st try of stripping our 20-year old, 15’ x 15’ cedar deck but am afraid “no rain/above 45 degrees” window is now closed here in Seattle for some months. In the meantime, I have these questions:

    1. Deck was last stained in 2009, with Daly’s Cedar DeckStain, an alkyd resin base which Daly’s says is considered “transparent.” Can I expect the deck to accept your Dark Walnut stain after the stripping done so far?

    2. Should I try re-stripping the darker, more weathered boards NOT under the overhang?

    3. About 4 or 5 of the weathered boards have some gouges I hoped the Dark Walnut stain would help mask. If I instead replace them with new cedar, should I put the new boards on the deck, exposed to the weather for 6 months or so, before brightening/ staining the whole deck? Am confused because your article on new wood says “rough sawn cut wood does not need to weather.”

    4. My jeans got soaked with your stripper solution. My wife is worried about putting them in the wash. Is that a problem?

    Many thanks,
    Robert A.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 11/06/2020
      1. We would need to see a picture after the Step 2 brightener is applied to determine if the wood is ready or not to be stained.

      2. Not sure if that is an old stain or if the brightener will remove the darker spots. See #1.

      3. The stain will not make gauges as it is semi-transparent. New wood will need to weather and be prepped. In addition, new wood will stain lighter in color as it is less absorbent.

      4. It should not be.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Kcenteno · 10/25/2020
    I applied this product a couple months ago and it looks very faded on the flat part of the deck. What should I do?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 10/26/2020
      No need to do anything at this point. You can lightly clean and add another coat next Spring if you would like.