Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain 1 Gallon

$40.99
free shipping with ground services
Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain: Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, Dark Walnut, Cottage Gray

Note: Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood.

COTTAGE GRAY GALLONS ARE ON SALE - $5 0FF!

Stain Color
 Back to: Restore A Deck Wood Stain

Stain and Prep on the Same Day!

RAD Stain Steps

Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is an advanced, water-based, semi-transparent stain formulation designed to penetrate deep into wood pores for maximum protection and longevity. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain protects wood from harmful UV rays and damage caused by water penetration. Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain is safe to use, has a low odor, and is easy to clean up with soap and water. It is ideal for all wood types including pressure-treated pine, cedar, fir, or redwood.

Recent advancements in water-based wood stain technology have allowed the active ingredients in the Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Stain to offer better UV protection, excellent penetration into the wood grain, the ability to apply to damp wood, all in 5 beautiful semi-transparent colors that highlight the natural wood grain.

RAD Semi-Transparent Wood and Deck Stain will increase the life, appearance, and durability of all exterior wood surfaces. With the easy-to-apply and maintain Eco-Safe formula, you'll be able to finish faster and enjoy your exterior wood or deck for years.

WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain is intended for all wood types of weathered, exterior wood surfaces including decks, fences, siding, outdoor furniture, gazebos, and playsets. You can apply Restore-A-Deck Premium Wood Stain to hardwoods including mahogany, ipe, or other types of exotic hardwoods. 

Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied the same day as the prep. Make sure that all standing water has dried off the surface after prep. Typically 2-4 hours at 70º F and less than 50% humidity.

Note: Restore-A-Deck Semi-Transparent Wood Stain can be applied to dry or damp wood. 

New Wood Note: New wood is not the same as "damp" wood and needs to weather and be prepped before staining. Restore-A-Deck Stain and New Wood

Coverage:
RAD Wood Deck Stain applies at about 100-200 feet per gallon. Actual coverage varies depending on wood porosity.

Restore A Deck Stain Application Tips

ADVANTAGES

  • Stain the same day as the prep!
  • Utilizing the latest advancements in water-based stain technology
  • Cost-effective stain and sealer for your wood
  • Deep penetration into the wood grain resulting in less chance of wear and tear
  • Protects wood from damaging UV oxidation and graying
  • Available in 4 beautiful semi-transparent finishes – Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut, & Dark Walnut
  • For use on all exterior wood types and surfaces, not just decks
  • Eco-Safe
  • Dries to a flat, natural-looking finish
  • Water-based, easy cleanup
  • Easy to reapply as needed
  • Easy to remove if needed
  • Does not promote mold/mildew growth
  • Low VOC content, compliant with all US states and Canada

Restore A Deck Semi-Transparent Stain Color Chart

Gallon Sizes:
1's and 5's
Coats  Required:
1-2 Coats
Coverage Per Gallon:
100-200 sq. ft
Temperature:
45-95 F
Application Tools:
Sprayer, Pad, Brush, Roller
Dry Time:
4-8 Hours
Cleanup:
Soap and Water
VOC Compliant: 50
Compliant in all States
More Info:
Product Data Sheet

Reviews

Wednesday, 20 December 2017

Awesome deck stain. Prepped the wood and 2 hours later we stained the deck. All done in half a day!

RAD Products

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  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lisa · 10/15/2021
    Looking to darken new garapa decking. Ordered Restore A Deck Samples and after light sanding to remove the mill glaze, wiped dust, applied stain, all newly stained sample pieces are still quite light with little shade difference between them (Natural, Cedar, Light Walnut and Dark Walnut). Is that to be expected? The darkest color, Dark Walnut was not dark or even medium toned at all. ~Thank you~
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    Cody C · 10/05/2021
    I'm planning on using the Semi-Transparent Dark Walnut stain on a recently prepped deck. I may have completed a few steps in the wrong order and wanted clarification before staining.
    I stripped and brightened the deck Sept 24-25. I noticed there were several areas that needed some sanding after the deck completely dried out. I ended up completely the sanding process Oct. 1-2. Am I ok to go ahead and apply the stain, or should I use the brightener again directly before applying the stain? Or do I need to use the cleaner and then brightener and then stain?
    Second question, when applying the stain I believe I read you guys recommend a deck staining brush for the decking and pads for the railing. Is using a stain brush (paint brush style) ok for this? I don't believe a pad will hold up for very long while staining the rails. 
    Thank you!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 10/06/2021
      Clean, brighten, and stain is the best way but at least use the brightener if you do not have the cleaner.
      Pad for rails and floor brush is correct. Pads are much easier for rails than a hand brush.https://www.restore-a-deck.com/decktools.html
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Cody C · 10/06/2021
        Thanks for your reply. I do have some of the cleaner on hand. I’ll go ahead and clean and re-brighten the deck before staining this weekend. 
        I’ll also try the pads out as well. 
        Thanks for the quick reply. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Danielle · 10/04/2021
    I had used your cleaner and then the brightener.., and then started sanding. The fibers of the treated yellow pine were coming out. (The boards were put in last year but not dried out in time before the cold weather came to stain so the wood had weathered over the year) And it appears I didn’t rinse long enough to get the brightener washed out as I see areas that appear a little bleached out. Though When the wood is wet you don’t see it those areas at all.But my question is I had first sanded with a 120 Grit as it was what I had but realize I need to use 60 or 80 Grit. Once I re-sand… do I need to use the cleaner and brightener again or just rinse off with water to clean it up and then stain? *One note is I’m not getting my stain until next week… (I was going to use another stain product I had but changed my mind and ordered yours). Thanks!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 10/04/2021
      Clean and brighten after sanding is correct. 
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Danielle · 10/07/2021
        I re-sanded with 60grit, then used the cleaner again, but is it really necessary to use the brightener again? As I already used the brightener the first go around. The boards look good and just rather not if not needed again.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Danielle · 10/04/2021
        Thanks! One more quick question, I have seen different options for when staining… that wet the deck right before staining and others who stain on dry deck?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lynne · 10/02/2021
    1. It will take me a week to stain my entire deck.  We're finishing sanding today. Can I clean and brighten the deck all at once, then stain in sections?  If there is a few days of rain and I need to stop staining could I just pick up where I left off? I'm using the RAD semi-transparent.   
    2. Also, I have a fence that got it's first coat of stain last year and will need a new coat this year. I read somewhere else I can wash and stain without using the brightener?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 10/03/2021
      1. Clean and brighten all at once and best to stain all at once. You cannot stop and start in the middle of a board and have it blend.2. Yes.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Lynne · 10/03/2021
        I was going to stain the deck in sections, its a multi-level deck, and I would do full boards. How many days do I have after brightening?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 10/03/2021
          You brighten the same day as you clean.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Lynne · 10/03/2021
            I already know that.  How long do I have after brightening to then stain.. I will not be able to finish in a day, I will not be stopping in the middle of a board. I will be staining a section at a time. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    JT · 09/26/2021
    Can left over semi-transparent natural stain be used 6 months to a year later?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/27/2021
      Shelf life if opened is about 12 months. Cannot freeze.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jeff · 09/24/2021
    I used your stain for my deck and it looks great. However, I have a few spots that dripped over the sides and dried like in the photo and doesn’t look good. Is there anything I can use to wipe it and blend it a bit so it’s not as noticeable?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/25/2021
      No way to spot fix and have it blend. You could sand that entire board and then recoat.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Steve C · 09/12/2021
    I have stripped and brightened the first deck.  I appears that the two sections were added at different times. I used the booster additive, but the two sections are not yielding similar colors.  I opted for the natural stain, but wondering if I should order a darker shade to allow the sections to match, or used different shades on each section to try and get the colors closer. I've not used the product yet, so I don't know how much it actually darkens.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/12/2021
      It is not possible to get them to match exactly even with a darker color. The newer wood will stain light as it is less absorbent.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jessi B · 09/11/2021
    another photo.. 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jessi B · 09/11/2021
    Looking for guidance on cleaner vs stripper for my deck. (photos attached) The spindles & railings still have stain on them but the horizontal boards don't. The stain left on the spindles is TWP. I am planning to use RAD semi-transparent. Do I use stripper on all of it? The last time I went a little rogue with the pressure washer and I would like to sand some of the furry areas I left behind on spindles. What is the recommended order that I do things as far as sanding? Also, I have an opened bag of brightener from 2-3 years ago that isn't mixed up. Is that still any good? Thank you! - Jessi 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 09/12/2021
      Stripper on rails and cleaner on floors. Sand after. Brightener last. The 2-3 year old bag should be okay to use.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Dac · 08/30/2021
    Given that this is a semi-transparent stain, what percentage of UV protection should I expect? Very little, some, or? The product description says it protects from UV oxidation and graying, however this is a semi-transparent stain, and they typically provide very little if any UV protection at all. 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/30/2021
      It will protect from UV fading for about 2-3 years on a deck and twice as long on vertical wood like fences and wood siding.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Marcus H · 08/27/2021
    My deck is about 300 sqft with a 10'x10' section that steps down to a 14'x14' section. There are also 3 steps that are 4' wide in addition to the two sections. I am only going to be using this on the deck floor for the surfaces mentioned. It is new pressure treated yellow pine that I installed in April so following what I've read, I should only need 1 coat of the stain after doing the prep. Will 3 gallons of dark walnut be enough? Also, do the cleaner and brightener have to be applied using a sprayer or is there another method that also works?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/27/2021
      Prep products is applied with a pump sprayer and then pressure washed off. 2-3 gallons will be enough for the 1 coat.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Joe K · 08/22/2021
    I applied the semi-transparent light walnut stain to a large cedar deck (over 600 SQ"). The deck is approximately 11-months old and the prep (cleaner/brightener) was done 3-weeks prior. 
    Unfortunately, weather forecast has been challenging and I finally had a small window to apply the stain with a period of 24 hours of no forecasted rain. I knew I was pushing the prep-to-stain timeline so I decided to go with the staining with temperatures around 85 degrees F and the day turned out to be full sun to overcast during the last hour of the application.  
    I applied the stain with a low pressure garden sprayer and a high quality pole mounted 12" stain pad that I kept wet using a large roller pan. I maintained wet-on-wet and typically did 2-boards at-a-time with the grain, the entire length (about 60'). The stain pad worked well allowing pressure against the wood and the ability to back brush leaving the surface consistent with no pooling. I was very cautions to not over-apply and have any pooling.
    The color and consistency of the deck looks awesome but the next day, I have some concerns that I might have made the mistake to not have pre-misted the deck surface with water. One reason that I did not pre-mist was the overall size, knowing that by the time I was halfway through, the surface would be long dry and with the caution to pick a day with no subsequent rain, I certainly didn't want to mist boards with spray getting on adjacent stained boards. 
    24-hours after the application, the surface is not tacky to the touch but it is slightly tacky when walking on it. I have read other posts and realize this will go away as the stain cures. I am wondering if the fact that the surface is slightly tacky 24-hours later, if this is a good sign that I did not experience flash-drying from the heat and sun? I did find that if I dripped some product on an adjacent unstained board that waiting as little as a few minutes to coat over would not always hide the splatter. Also, very surprising to me 24-hours later in the last section of deck that I did, there is a very distinct shadow through about 20-boards (perpendicular) that resembles the shadow of the top 2x6 railing, perfectly straight down the deck about 6" wide. The area is lighter in color and appears to have perhaps absorbed the stain into the wood more. Thinking back, we do not remember the sun providing a shadow at the time of application and actually believe it was cloudy at that point. I am wondering if the sun had just heated up the deck at this point with the exception of where the top railing was shading the wood? Can you help me with an explanation as this pattern certainly was not showing during the application and obviously is not from the stain being applied differently in this area.
    And if I have experienced differences in the penetration of the stain due to temperature, am I destined for problems such as future peeling? Again, I was careful to not overapply and there was no pooling and I have a slightly tacky surface 24-hours after applying.
    Lastly, I am assuming with this cedar deck (11-months seasoned), that I do not need to apply a second coat of semi-transparent stain as might be needed with a solid stain.
    Thank you for your thoughts on this.
    -Joe
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/23/2021
      24 hours later and still slightly tacky just means it has not had a chance to fully cure. Not sure about the shadowing but it is possible it flash dried in full sun compared to where the shadows are. When you are in full sun and the deck is hot, the temp of the wood is actually much hotter than the air temp. In your scenario the wood was well over 100 degrees and this can cause flash drying and is why we suggest applying to a damp deck. It should not lead to peeling issues.
      You cannot apply a second coat at this point. You can in 9-12 months after a light cleaning.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jason · 08/21/2021
    Is there a measurement for how much square footage is recommended per gallon?I have a pretty small deck (177.5 sq ft) and want to make sure 1 gallon of stain is enough
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/21/2021
      For 2 coats you will need about 2 gallons.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Jason · 08/21/2021
        Is it recommended to do 2 coats for this stain? How long would you expect 1 vs. 2 coats to last for (on average)
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Bob · 08/17/2021
    What is the self life of the semi-transparent dark walnut?   I think an unopened 5 gallon can has been in my garage for 3 years.  
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/18/2021
      About 3 years. Open and make sure it is 100% fluid and not clumpy.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Chundo McFay · 08/15/2021
    Can different colors be mixed? I'd like something between the cottage grey and cedar.
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    Maria Taylor · 08/12/2021
    I would like to stain a pressure-treated pine covered-porch floor that is about 10 years old and has never had any stain or paint. It has only been weathered by blown-in rain and snow, and hosed off on rare occasions. Would it be considered to be weathered from that after 10 years, or still pretty-much new wood? What should we do to prepare it, and how many coats of the semi-transparent stain should we apply?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/13/2021
      It is not new wood now. For prep, use the RAD Cleaner and Brightener. Stain with two coats of the stain.
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    mike · 08/03/2021
    after first coat seems to be some tacky spots will this go way with the summer sun and hot weather?
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    Steve C · 08/03/2021
    For a an old deck pressure treated deck (30+ years), do you suggest brushing or spraying as the way to achieve best results?
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    Mike · 08/02/2021
    What is best way to remove the semi transparent stain from the vinyl siding? It has only a few days.The system work great just need to finish a couple of hard to reach spots, very happy so far!thanks
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    Steve C · 08/02/2021
    Can Bug Juice be added to the semi-transparent stain with affecting its performance?
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    Joe Knoff · 08/01/2021
    We applied both the RAD cleaner and brighter to a 600 SQ’ cedar deck that was new 10-months ago. We have not yet applied the RAD light walnut semi-transparent stain.
    We maintained a wet surface during the application of the cleaner and scrubbed with a hard bristle brush. We worked the surface till the white/grey oxidation appeared gone.
    The area was thoroughly hosed off and the brightner was applied and also thoroughly hosed off. All directions were followed exactly as stated.
    The following morning after checking the dried deck you still see spots of white/grey especially around knots. The look is very consistent throughout the entire deck.
    Before applying the stain, do we need to reapply the cleaner/brighter to remove additional oxidation? Or will the light walnut semi-transparent stain provide a consistent coverage?
    Thank you for your help!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 08/02/2021
      It is normal for knots to be lighter in color after prep and even after staining. This is due to the density of the wood itself. Your prep looks good.
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    WALT MCCORD · 07/27/2021
    DOES CYPRESS RAILING & CEDAR DECK LOOK GOOD TOGETHER OR BROWN OAK RAILING BETTER
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    NBrown · 07/24/2021
    How long does this stain last in caribbean rainy season type weather? Full sun and rain for 7 months. 
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    Ray · 07/22/2021
    On about 1/3 of the boards on my upper deck, I sanded off the old stain down to bare would.  After seeing how much work that was, I used the RAD Stripper,  followed up with the RAD Brightener.  I followed all the instructions, including "flooding for 30 minutes,"  using a pressure washer.  After that dried, I also sanded the entire surface using a 60 Grit Belt Sander & 60 Grit orbital.   I applied Light Walnut semi transparent to the entire deck, using "wet on wet" for two coats.  On the section where I did not use the RAD Stripper & Brightener,  the results were great (see photo).  On the section where RAD was Stripper & Brightener were used, I have a "chalk" like presence on the wood surface (see photos).
    What's strange is that not all of the boards that were treated with RAD Stripper & Brightener (see photo) were effected in this manner.

    What do I do now?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 07/22/2021
      Looks like you did not rinse the brightener well enough in those spots. See this article about this issue: https://www.deckstainhelp.com/why-rinse-a-wood-brightener-with-water/

      Does the "white" areas do away when wet with water?
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Ray · 07/22/2021
        Thanks for your quick reply.  The "white" areas does not go away when wet with water.  It appears to be part of the stain.   
        My rinse of the brightener consisted of each board being cleaned and rinsed with a pressure washer.  After that, I thoroughly "flooded" the entire area for more than the allotted time and once dried, I thoroughly sanded the entire area.  I'm really  baffled as to why this happened.
        Correct me if I am wrong, but it appears that I am going to have to strip this area of the deck and repeat the process?  If I do that, how can I be sure that this is not going to happen again?   Is there some way that I can neutralize the chemical effect other than just with water?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 07/22/2021
          Yes, it sounds like your brightener was still in the wood and it caused the reaction. It also seems that closer to the house was okay but as you get farther away, you start to see this happen. Was there possibly an issue where this was in full sun and you did not get a chance to rinse it out of the wood prior to drying?
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Ray · 07/22/2021
            The area closer to the house was not treated with the brightener.  I had sanded that area down to bare wood which made it look "new" so I didn't feel the need for it.  That's the area that came out great (in the first photo). 
            I treated it with the brightener late in the day when the sun is not hitting that area in "full sun."   Nothing had dried during this process, as I kept it damp with the excess that I had mixed in the pump sprayer.  
            Whatever caused this problem, I need to know what to do next.  It seems to me I am left with no other option other than to strip it again.  Any thoughts?
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 07/23/2021
              Before going down the road of stripping, do a test board with another coat of the stain to see if that will darken it evenly.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                Ray · 07/23/2021
                Thanks for your reply.  
                I will try that ... do you suggest I do a light sand just to rough up the surface slightly, or, should I just put another coat over it as is? 
                • We will reply to your comment shortly
                  RAD Products · 07/23/2021
                  A light hand sand with 80 grit would help with adhesion.
                  • We will reply to your comment shortly
                    Ray · 07/24/2021
                    Yesterday afternoon, I did a light sand with 80 grit on a test board and brushed on a light coating.  It seemed to have worked, so I decided to do the rest of the boards.  Checked it this morning and it looks great ... completely covered the problem. 
                    Thanks for all of your quick replies in helping me solve this problem.  I don't think I would have ever received this type of help from a box store. 
                    Thanks again!
                    • We will reply to your comment shortly
                      RAD Products · 07/24/2021
                      Great! Post some pictures when done.
                      • We will reply to your comment shortly
                        Ray · 07/24/2021
                        See attached photos.  Only one minor issue is that the boards closest to the house, which were not effected, are slightly lighter, so I may use the same "light hand sand" and add a light coat in order to even the color out.  Very happy with the result. 
                        The semi-transparent stain looks like a very durable product.

                        Now I have to start on my lower deck ... 
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ricks Painting · 07/04/2021
    HI i have roughly a 1415 sq ft deck to stain. old stain was oil and should come off easy since most of the deck is in the sun and is faded. How much stain est.  would i need? there is no railings. Thank you
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ray · 07/04/2021
    I live in Northeast Ohio in the "snow belt."  6 years ago, I used Sickkens oil based semi-transparent on my pressure treated deck.  I used Olympic Premier Deck Cleaner with a pressure washer which removed about 90% of the finish.  I sanded the entire deck with an orbital sander using 60 grit, which further removed the remaining finish.  The boards look clean and ready to be refinished. 
    I'd like to use the Restore, water based light walnut.  Is there anything else I need to do at this point?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Tom · 06/29/2021
    Will you be adding a redwood color to your RAD semi-transparent stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/29/2021
      No, and most use the Light Walnut as this is a reddish-brown color.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    heckstorm1985 · 06/13/2021
    How do I apply the stain? Will paint brushes work? Or rollers?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Liz · 06/08/2021
    I need a little advice and a pep talk on tackling the stain application on my 16' square pergola. I'm working alone and it took me 25 hours to strip and brighten it and, while it isn't perfect, by golly I'm calling Steps 1 and 2 done. According to RAD stain directions, I need to do verticals first (one coat), then horizontals (two coats), and make sure to finish the entire length of each board while the stain is still wet. First of all, isn't pretty much everything here a vertical, except for the tops of the upper boards and the lower surface of the detailing around the sides? Second, with all of the crisscrossed boards I've got, standing on a tall ladder, climbing up and down between the rafters, should I be working from the top down, or the bottom up? Whichever direction, should I do all one layer at a time? E.g. if top down, then do all the narrow top boards first, then the 2 x 10 rafters, then the sides and detailing below that, then the posts? If I do topmost boards first, is it best to do all four surfaces at the same time, or wait and do the bottom surface when I'm doing the rafters just below them? Finally I'm not going to be able to keep the wood damp during the entire application process because I just won't be able to work fast enough. I've got a window of 3-4 hours in the morning before the sun hits it, and another 3 hours in the evening after the sun falls behind the house.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/08/2021
      Just do each board top down and do all sides and then move on to the next section/board. It is not that hard and you will get the hang if it shortly.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Alex · 06/07/2021
    Applied stain on 12 month old wood. Used provided brush. I'm not sure why there are so many horizontal lines along the wood? I also have some spots where the stain dripped off the brush and apparently wasn't spread fast enough and spots are now visble. Also some areas (such as by stairs as pictured) are very dark compared to the rest of the deck. I spread the stain pretty quickly and what seemed to be evenly so I'm not sure why any of this happened. I was kind of running out of stain and maybe didn't apply enough. I'm hoping another coat can remedy these issues? 
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      RAD Products · 06/07/2021
      It is because you did not rinse the wood brightener fully/correctly. See picture. Unfortunately, you cannot add another coating on top once the first coat has cured and adding another coating would not fix it anyhow. You would have to strip and start over.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Alex · 06/07/2021
        Ok so I REALLY have to rinse brightener off with a hose, I didn't cut the time short. Would applying more stain without stripping just make it darker? Do I need to strip, brighten and retain or just strip and stain again? 
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          RAD Products · 06/07/2021
          Pressure wash rinse is the correct way, not just a light hose rinse. You cannot apply another coat on top of this coat, it will not take now. Strip and then brighten.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Alex · 06/07/2021
            If that's the correct way then why is that not stated in the instructions? Pretty frustrating. I would have used my pressure washer if it was indicated that was the recommended way. Now I need to repurchase and apply everything again? 
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              RAD Products · 06/07/2021
              It does state to rinse very well for 30 minutes after applying the brightener and flood the area. This was not done correctly and is why you are having this issue as the acid in the brightener reacted with the stain. Using a pressure washer is just much easier but a garden hose would have worked as well if you flooded correctly.