Is it ok to stain if the night time temperature will drop below 40? Daytime highs in the 69s.

If the shipping address is Canada, at the checkout, the amount shown...is that USD or CAD?

I used the RAD system two years ago on newly installed Port Orford Cedar (porch deck) and it needs to be refreshed. I over bought and have plenty of cleaner, brightner, and stain to do this. Since it was new wood two years ago, I didn't buy any stripper. Since it's only had one coat of RAD before, do I need to do the stripping step as if the existing finish was another brand or unknown? Thanks.

Did my order go through a few minutes ago? I have no confirmation. Thanks

couple of followup questions-
1) Do we need a sealer or RAD prevents further water damage?
2) Would you advise solid stain or semi-transperent?
3) How many gallons needed for a 450 sqft deck?
Thank you

Gazebo, 30 yr old Red Cedar, using oil based stain, stripped and brighten with Restore-a-deck (Used pressure washer)

We are hoping to start staining the spindles today since they are labor intensive. We have had cloudy weather with lows of 60s and highs 80s with humidity of 85%. They are reading 16-18% moisture level. It will be 48 hours at noon. Can we start at noon with this moisture level?

We have rain coming on Monday.
If we are unable to complete before rain, we will not be able to stain again until Thursday next week. Do we have to use the Brightner again before waiting 48 hours after rain?

Hello, we moved into this house and has an old deck which is not cared for very well. i dont think it has been stained for atleast 5 yrs. For now, i did a power wash and deep clean and able to get most of it back. but it still has some cracks and knots in the wood. Should i be using a sealer to prevent further damage? and then stain? ... please help with what would be the best approach to prevent further damage and restore some life into the deck. thank you

I was told by you a while back I had to RAD strip, brighten, buff, and use semi transparent stain on my 4 month old cedar deck which I cleaned with oxyclean, scrubbed with brush & used Thompson water sealer on. The deck had gray spots that the water sealer didn’t soak into and they looked like wood fuzzies. I’m doing the deck tomorrow and my question is what do I use to “buff” the wood fuzzies off after stripping?

Is this tool compatible with your solid color stains?

Can solid stain be applied with an airless paint gun?

I have a new deck 3 1/2 months old in IL. it is new pressure treated pine. 440 sq feet. we have a pressure washer. what should I buy to protect my deck.

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

My goal is to show off the wood color and grain on this 1 year old fence

- 1 Year old Cedar Fence with pressure treated posts: 150' X 6' (1 side only) = 900 Total square footage

- No stain currently

- I have a pressure washer


Thanks again!

John

Thanks for your product. We are happy with the result. Here are photos of our 300 sq. ft. cambara mahogany deck, first built 10 years ago and modified in late Fall 2019 with new boards that are quite obvious. We had made the error of treating the older deck with a paraffin-based sealer. With a combination of hand and reciprocating floor sander, we did manage to remove the sealer. We used RAD cleaner, then brightener on one day, waited two days because of rain, then applied RAD. We did color tests on lumber scraps, but changed our mind upon application. We tried the light walnut stain on a section, but it was too orange for us, so we mixed light walnut with dark walnut 50-50%. We also have a small 2 year old deck at the back of the house in cedar with cambara steps, installed this week (no cedar was available because of the lumber shortage). We will treat and stain the deck today, and I will post a photo as a comment here. We will wait to treat the cambara till it ages, per your suggestions. I am posting the photos because the FAQ helped our decision-making a great deal.

I have a standard deck made out of pressure treated pine. The boards are weathered and I replaced the rotten boards with new boards last summer in addition to all the railings. I am using an 80 grit drum sander to bring some of the deck boards back to life and remove some of the cupping. The deck boards have been stripped of all paint. The deck rails are 1 summer old and are pressure treated wood. I have them one season to dry out so they would accept the stain better.

I purchased the Restore a Deck Comb / Cleaner and Brightener (didn't need th stripper because there is no stain or paint as I previously removed that last summer. My question is about my aluminum balusters. As I understand it, I do the cleaner and the brighter and then put two applications of the stain down. Since this is a wet application, I know It's okay for me to walk on the first coat, but not the second.

My question is about my aluminum balusters.

1. Since I do have aluminum balusters, do I use a brush to put those two coats on the rails?
2. If I'm not suppose to use a brush but use the wet application (same as the deck boards) does the stain wipe off the the black aluminum balusters if I spray them at the same time I do the deck boards?
3. If it is suggested to to paint the rails with a brush and not the spray, what happens if I accidentally get stain on the wood railings when I'm spraying? Is that going to be blotchy as they will undoubtedly get more stain on the bottoms as I'm spraying the deck boards during the wet application.

Any guidance or tips would be appreciated. Just don't want to screw it up.

I believe I over applied the deck semi transparent stain because the surface is slightly tacky even after 48hrs. What is the best way to resolve this? Everything else looks great. Thanks!

Don’t know what happened to the other 2 pics? Oh well my deck was pretty beat up so we are very happy with the results

This is cypress solid color stain. Looks great. Before and after pics up close. Literally used the the absolute last drop on the last board 2nd coat. ? I recommend this product.

Another question from a long -unstained deck. If a full cleaning, brightening and light sanding are done, does all oxidation have to be removed in order to accept the stain properly or will it mainly create color variation?

Thanks so much!

Here are some pics

I am planning on using your system to prep and stain my 425 sq foot multi-color deck. The deck is about 18 years old, don't know wood type. Last treated 3 years ago with Cabot semi-transparent. I hope to use the RAD Semi-Transparent on the deck and spindles and Solid white stain on the painted rails. My questions:

-How do I prep the white painted rails before applying the solid stain? Do I need to remove all of the white paint first? Is this even possible?
-I do have a pressure washer. Should I pressure wash first and then use the stripper? Or just use it after applying the stripper?
-There are some deep-ish trough areas where the wood splintered and came off. Is it possible to fill these first? If so, with what?
-How many gallons do you recommend for 425 sqf?

After applying RAD stripper and then brightener, I got the wood fuzzies or feathers. This is a common issue, I think. Tried to find previous posts about this. Can I just sand these then apply stain or should I clean and brighten again after sanding? Thank you.

5 year old pressure treated pine, never stained deck. I used the cleaner and brightener. I was left with fuzzies all over the deck. What caused this? How do I resolve this? I believe I will have to allow to dry, then sand the entire deck. What grain sandpaper should I use in my random orbital sander? After sanding, do I need to use cleaner and brightener again or can i just sweep away dust and start staining?

Should deck board be replaced before or after the stripper is applied?

Additional pictures

I am requesting recommendations on cleaning product and type of stain best for deck. There are areas with stain that has maintained color and other areas where the stain has faded.

I am considering a darker stain.

Type of wood if known:
Approximate Age of Wood:12-15 years
If Applicable, Previous Stain Brand Used and Type (Examples of Type: Transparent, Semi-Transparent, Solid Stain, Oil-Based, Water-Based): TWP 100 series (purchased from restore a deck) semi transparent stain.
If Applicable, When was the last time wood was stained: October 2015
Wood Type to be Stained (Deck, House, Fence, etc.): Deck
Do you have access to a pressure washer: yes if necessary
Miscellaneous Info: Plan to complete deck project this fall.
*Must Include 1-3 Photos of Restoration Project. There is a link to upload photos in the bottom right corner of the comment area.

My deck is just about a year old and hasn't been treated with anything. I just bought your kit that includes the 5 gallon stain, cleaner and brighter. Should I do a light sand?

One additional question would be.

Since I'll be waiting for my RAD cleaners and brighteners to be shipped, any reason why I can't do a first cleaning and then some sanding work now and then apply RAD cleaners a couple of weeks later. Are they bad for bare wood? Thanks

In Maryland we have a 30 year, 500 square foot deck that was cleaned but never re-stained years ago.

1.I prefer to do semi-transparent because of how it looks. Is that even possible with a deck of this age? I don't mind color variation.


2. Since clearly we're horrible with deck maintenance, I also care about ease of maintenance. For semi can you clean it an apply another coat in a few years or does it have to be stripped? (assuming we'd do it in a couple of years, not 10?)

The up close photo shows the deck with one power wash with a deck cleaner. The picture with the apple shows the deck in its uncleaned state.

Thanks!

RAD light walnut is very orange. I have an old deck, used RAD steps to clean and brighten. Very Orange, what are my options to re-stain?

I saw in your FAQ that I should not hope to remove the dark stain I just applied to my brand new deck. It is awful looking. Looks thick, like a semi-solid even though it sells as a transparent. Would using your stripper with the booster at least remove some of the color? I can then wait six months. Now, it hurts my eyes every time I look at it. Do you recommend that I apply a clear stain after the stripper + booster + brightener if only to protect the wood (it is new) until I have better prospects to remove it completely in the spring? Thanks for any advice.