Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper

Makes 5 Liquid Gallons ...Enough to Strip 500-1000+ Sq. Feet!
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper: the Best Deck Stain Stripper
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper is a biodegradable, powdered concentrate that quickly removes worn finishes to restore wood surfaces. Stains and varnishes are removed along with collected dirt, mold, mildew and mill glaze.
The Restore A Deck system is a multistep deck cleaning system, and best results are achieved when using all 3 products. This product is Step 1 Stripper of the Restore A Deck system and can be substituted for or used after Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner.
WHERE TO USE
Restore-A-Deck Wood Stain Stripper removes most oil and latex based finishes including: clear sealers, transparent stains, and semi-transparent stains.
SURFACE PREPARATION:
Surfaces to be stripped must be above 50°F. Protect adjacent surfaces; cover with plastic sheets and/or tape off any adjacent areas not being stripped. Thoroughly wet and/or cover plants and shrubs. Rinsing residue will not harm plants or roots. Exposure to full strength product will burn foliage.
The Restore-A-Deck Wood and Deck Stain Stripper needs to be neutralized with the Step 2 Wood Brightener.
ADVANTAGES
- #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Stripper
- Removes most clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid coatings.
- Powdered formula makes 5 liquid gallons when mixed
- Extremely cost effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon.
- Eco-Safe formulas
- Preps previously stained wood and decks
- Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
- Applied with pump sprayer for max results or injected through pressure washer for easier to remove finishes
- Can be mixed at a stronger ratio for difficult to remove finishes. Max would be 3 gallons of water to one container of Restore-A-Deck Stripper
Coverage: 500-1000 sq. feet per container.
*Will not remove excessively over applied stains, solid color stains, paints, or polyurethanes fully.
Do you Have a Difficult to Remove Coating?
Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper Additives
Restore-Deck Stain Stripper Application Tips
Available Sizes: |
2 lb Container |
Powder Concentrate: |
1 Container Makes 5 Liquid Gallons |
Purpose: |
Stain Stripper |
Coverage Per Gallon: |
100-200 sq. ft Per Gallon |
Application Tools: |
Injector, Sprayer, Stiff Brush |
Neutralize: Yes |
RAD Step 2 |
Reviews
Sunday, 24 December 2017
#1 Rated Wood and Deck Stain Stripper that removes clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and most semi-solid coatings.
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We will reply to your comment shortly· 09/08/2019Will this stripper or whitener harm vinyl siding?
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI got some of the dissolved stripper on a window when I was spraying it on the deck. It left spots on the window that do not want to come off. I have tried detergent and a razor blade, window cleaner, and acetone. Any ideas?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIt should not do this unless the glass has a coating on the exterior of it? Do you know if it does?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyPreviously had Behr "Semi-transparent" in Chocolate (which seems a lot more opaque than most other semi-transparent stains?). The Behr was wearing and peeling.
I've done 3 full rounds of stripping and power washing with RAD stripper + both boosters, followed by brightening. This got "most"--but not all-- of the Behr stain off. I just can't bare to do any more prep at this point (sanding this is out), but would prefer to avoid a completely-solid stain covering if there's something that will work.
What's going to get the best results (with easy reapplication of future coats), despite the little bit of lingering old stain remaining? I had hoped the RAD stripper would prep this well enough to be able to use TWP, but it seems like the semi-transparent oil-based might not provide good "coverage" of the lingering Behr?
What do you recommend that I should stain with at this point? (North Carolina, full sun, pine)-
We will reply to your comment shortlyAt this point, you could try the TWP 103 Dark Oak. It will blend much of the old Behr but it will show through slightly and will be a little shiny in the areas it goes over this Behr. The other option is to sand.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyOh interesting, I figured the TWP was fairly see-through and would be totally out of the question, especially given that the Behr seems 'more opaque' than the TWP, and that the oil based are more of a "soak in" rather than sit-on-top stain.
Thoughts on TWP 100 vs Armstrong Clark oil based semi-solid for this?-
We will reply to your comment shortlyA dark semi-solid would blend better.
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyA small vertical section of ny deck is stained with semi-transparent Honeytone. Should I use the stripper, additive, and gel in preparation for using Classic White solid stain. If so, can I use smaller proportions of each? Photo attached.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyJust stripper. No need for the additives in this scenario.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIn one area on a teak table, I accidentally let some of the stripper dry. It had both additives in it. I have sanded and brightened the table, but when it is dry, I can still see an area of darkened wood. Anything I can do? I do plan to seal the table with semco in honey, will it show when finished?
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyPost a picture.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyPic is posted above.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyTry applying the brightener again and let it sit on the wood until it dries. Mix a little stronger at 10 oz per gallon of water. Hopefully, that helps.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyShould I rinse after it dries before staining?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyCan I use Restore-Deck Stain Stripper on this deck to remove the solid stain color (see attached image)?
What do you recommend?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThank You!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyNo, the stripper will not remove a solid color stain fully. You can strip off some but you will need to recoat with a solid stain again: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-wood-stain/restore-a-deck-solid-stain.html
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyour deck was new July 2018. We used Olympic sealant from Lowes at that time. This spring we stripped and power washed and brightened twice to remove all the sealant. On Tuesday, we stained and now we do not like the color so want to restain. BUT the wood looks like it's furring! Should we lightly sand or can we not, with it being new wood? Thank you for replying.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIf you want to change the color you will need to strip it again. You could lightly sand after with 60 grit to remove any furring.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThe wood is actually very furred. Do I clean and prep before I sand? We have to replace a few boards also now because of a burn. Can I do this all in 3 months, like in September?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyStrip and brighten and then sand. You can do all in Fall.
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThese pictures look more like a solid stain. Try the additives with the Stripper and you will get off most but you may need to sand some as well.
https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
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We will reply to your comment shortlyLate last year I used Ready Seal (cedar color) to stain our screened-in porch. Porch was built over 35 years ago with cedar with redwood support columns and beams. Do I use your stripper or cleaner product before brightening and staining?
Secondly, should I use a brush to apply the stripper or cleaner as recommended above so product does not affect outside painted surfaces?-
We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, strip and brighten. Prep products do not remove paint.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIf I have very light spots and dark spots. Should I used stripper then brightener, or cleaner then brightener?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyBest to post a picture here so we can see the best way to prep.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHi. We just used a different stripper on our IPE deck and there are still areas that have quite a bit of stain left. Those areas were not exposed to the sun, so the stain was still mostly in tact. Looking to purchase RAD stripper and brightener for the next round. Do you have any tips or recommendations for removing stain from IPE? Is it helpful to use a brush when applying the stripper? Was thinking about possibly sanding, but not sure you're supposed to sand IPE. Not sure what stain the contractors used a few years ago, but it's a mahogany color. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyPost a picture on the stain that is still on the IPE.
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThe old contractors used the wrong type of stain in this. this coating created a film on top of the wood similar to a varnish, that is why you are having a hard time stripping it off. Stain strippers will have difficulty removing this. You can try the RAD Stripper with the Boost and Gel: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/rad-stain-stripper-additives.html
but there is no guarantee it will come off fully. Apply, let dwell for 30 minutes or longer by misting to keep it wet, then pressure wash off.-
We will reply to your comment shortlyOkay. Would it help to brush in at all while applying? If the stain does not come off, can IPE be sanded? Thank you for the advice!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyLori, let me know how your stripping goes. I had a fence company stain our Ipe and they used Miniwax Wood Finish and it looks terrible. We haven't tackled our project yet, but would be interested in seeing what worked for you. I'm getting ready to order the stripper/brightener but it sounds like I might also need the boost and gel. Thanks!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou can scrub/agitate the stripper after about 15 minutes, reapply the stripper again, and then pressure wash off.
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI plan on stripping the deck floor, TWP on there now, I have a solid stain on the railings, do I need to worry about getting stripper on them and affecting the solid stain?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThe stripper does not remove solid stain unless the sold stain is peeling already.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWhat angle nozzle do you recommend on the power washer? I figured out the right size for 800 psi but wondering what angle to use, 25 degrees?
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We will reply to your comment shortly25 degrees and up to 1500 psi.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIf I strip and brighten now, can I wait until Spring to stain? It's just the stain that is on there seems to promote mold . . . and with the weather changing, I may not can stain now . . . . Or should I just wait until Spring? Thank you!
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI plan on using this product in the spring. I have a year old deck stained with SW Superdeck. Have had lots of mold and mildew due to rain, humidity and aphid droppings from the trees. Have power washed x2 in a month and have power washed some of the stain off since I knew I would be stripping it anyway. When I get ready to start this project, can I skip the cleaning and just start with the stripping step? It's a treated yellow pine deck.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou do not need a cleaner if using the stripper. Apply stripper and pressure wash off. Rinse and apply the brightener. Rinse that well after about 15 minutes.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHave 1000 ft2 22-year old PT deck. Was RAD prepped and stained with Armstrong Clark semi transparent dark brown stain in 2015. Couldn't retreat with RAD 1 and 2 plus same stain as shady end of deck was heavy with green mold and mildew.
So, decided to strip, brighten and stain all with RAD (light walnut). Have stripped all and brightened just a couple hundred ft2. Periodic rain is going to delay staining a bit. Wood is still fairly wet, which acounts for some of the darkness variation iin pics.
Have seen references to "furring" in your replies. Is this what pictures of the more open grain are showing and should I sand those boards with 60-80 grit? Would that be sand, rinse and brighten? Also, would light use of an orbital sander be OK or should I stick with a sanding block?
IF you can reply quickly I'd be very greateful.
Many thanks,
Peter-
We will reply to your comment shortlySand rinse and brighten. 60-80 grit. Floor buffers work the best. I would not suggest an orbital hand sander.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI live in Georgia and saw the reviews online for your products.
I used Thompsons Timber Oil in Teak about 2 years ago on new wood and want to strip, clean and re-stain. Will your product bring back the natural wood color? Thanks-
We will reply to your comment shortlyCould you please a picture of the current condition.
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We will reply to your comment shortlySent under 3 emails from phone.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThe stripper should remove the stain but you will need to use a pressure washer after applying it and you may need to strip the verticals a couple of times to remove. Brighten after the stripper.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyDo I have to follow with the brightener if the wood is fairly new, or will water neutralize it?
Thanks!-
We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, you have to neutralize with the brightener.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYikes! OK, so I stripped yesterday, but don't have the brightener. Will it destroy the wood if I don't neutralize? Is there some other neutralizer I can use that I can purchase locally (I'm assuming your brightener won't get here fast enough)? Or is it OK to wait a week or so?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyBest to neutralize as soon as possible the same day as stripping to lessen the chance of "furring" but since it has already dried, it will not matter if it waits a week. Our brand will work the best for this.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyAfter I applied the stripper and brightener to my deck and power-washed, a lot of the blown off old stain got stuck to the walls. I power-washed the walls but brownish marks are left behind. These marks are like the sticky substance left behind by scotch tapes. How do I get rid of them? They are noticeable and ugly looking.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyTry a water-based graffiti remover cleaner from your local hardware store.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have a huge tigerwood deck. It has crd sikkens stain on it. I have got everything off the railings with is stripper. I am having some trouble getting the stain off the floor. There are someboards where it is not coming completely out and when I scrub more it causes some maeks. see the picture. Will these mark show up when stain with restore a deck natural? Should I leave the stain that will not come off? I dont want to damage the boards. Or should I just sand the floor?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyAre you pressure washing after applying the stripper? Make sure that you brighten the wood after all the stripping is done.
Try to remove as much as possible. It seems that most is removed in the picture. The brightener should help as well to even out the appearance some.-
We will reply to your comment shortlyI am power washing and brightening while it is still wet. It is different boards which the stain remains. The stain will just not come off these particular boards even with scrubbing. I will send a picture of the board.
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We will reply to your comment shortly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHere are the photos. It tends to be the weaker boards thathat it wont come out of. That is why I am wondering if I should sand the floor instead because I dont want to damage the boards.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou could try the sanding.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWhat level of grit would you reccomend since most of the floor is stripped? Sand, vacuum, wash, brighten and then stain and in that order? I may just stain the floor this year since most is removed and sand the floor next year if I have issues with uneven fading as the railings have been completely stripped and those should not need to be sanded.
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We will reply to your comment shortly60-80 grit paper. Sand, lightly wash and then brighten for the final prep.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHi, RAD.
Couple question about using this on wood fence.
First, May I use it on to wood fence?
Second, fence is vertical stand so I think it will be flow down when I spray on.
Does it still work as this condition?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, it can be used on a fence. Apply and back wipe tight away to make sure you catch any drips and to make sure it is applied evenly
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThree month follow up. I was very skeptical using a water based stain. My friend, an executive from SW, was talking trash about doing so. I’ve been using TWP, and the cedar tone turns blackish every year. Plus it’s a pain to apply, and you need 3 dry days in a row.
I stripped my deck and posted the finished photo in April. I’m posting it again today.
Here’s my April work timeline. I pulled the pressure washer out of the shed at 10 am. Stripped and neutralized twice each to get to bare wood. Was a warm day, southerly exposure. I let the deck dry 90 minutes. Then stained it. Walked on the deck at 3PM same day.
Full southern exposure, deck take a heat beating. Still looks like identical to April application. Rained all night so I’m posting the water bead up at 4 months! I’ll follow up April 2019.
Move over oil stain, there’s a new sherif in town!-
We will reply to your comment shortlyHi Brad,
Thanks for sharing. Please enter our contest as well: https://www.restore-a-deck.com/restore-a-deck-prep-wood-stain-contest-2018.html
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI tested your stripper and brightener on a very small part of my log cabin - however, the person I hired to do the job fell off a ladder and won't be able to start until mid September. Do I need to stain that small are or is it OK to get wet for several months then be stained
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou will be fine to leave as is until the Fall.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWe just paid $$$ to have our large deck stained with SW Superdeck semi-solid Charwood. It is beyond horrible. Way to dark, uneven, sprayer and roller marks and blotches/missed spots everywhere. Will this take it back to where it can be restrained with a different product? Or will anything help?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou sure it is semi-solid and not semi-transparent? Please post a picture of the deck and the can of stain.
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We will reply to your comment shortlywhat are the ingredients in this product?