Restore-A-Deck Brightener Only

This last weekend finished stripping 130ft of treated pine retainer wall but held off on brightening because I want to do some sanding and not quite through stripping porch post and rails. Basicly I can't get it all done in one weekend which is when I'm able to work on it.
You always say brighten while wet from stripping/cleaning. But I've also seen answers that it would be ok to wait.
Wondering what the risk is? Just neutralize the cleaning solvents before they penetrate deep and dry? Is it ok or more or less the same if you wet it good before brightening?
I was going to finish everything... stripping, sanding, putty joints then wet and brighten 3 or 4 days to a week before finish coat. Thoughts and/or facts behind the timing? -Thanks.

Julie Blenn:

I also realized that some of the Part 1 cleaner dried onto the glass of my deck windows. What harm will this do, and how can I reverse the problem ?

Just rinse well with water and make sure all the residue comes off. Brighten when done. It will be fine.

I also realized that some of the Part 1 cleaner dried onto the glass of my deck windows. What harm will this do, and how can I reverse the problem ?

I applied step one Restore-a-deck, the cleaner, and was not able to finish washing it before the sun went down. By morning , the cleaner will have dried onto the unfinished portions, and I know the can says "do not let it dry on".

Will this cause harm ? How should I handle it ?
I plan to finish pressure washing in the morning : will this be adequate ?
The rest of the deck looks fabulous !! Thanks for yur excellent product !

Dana Clark:

Ive stripped my deck with a Behr product which pretty much sucked. I'm going to buy your deck stripper to go back over the entire deck,and hopefully finish it off. Do I follow with just the brightener or do I need both the cleaner and brightener? Also, I started stripping the deck this past weekend and it won't be until after I recieve your product that I resume. Is it okay that my deck is sitting there, or should I go ahead and use the Behr product (brightener & cleaner) I have on hand to "Neutralize" the current stripper?I've rinsed and rinsed, but from what I've read there's surely still some stripper in the wood.

After the stripper you go straight to the brightener. No need for the cleaner. You are fine with being halfway done. Just start stripping with the Rad.

Ive stripped my deck with a Behr product which pretty much sucked. I'm going to buy your deck stripper to go back over the entire deck,and hopefully finish it off. Do I follow with just the brightener or do I need both the cleaner and brightener? Also, I started stripping the deck this past weekend and it won't be until after I recieve your product that I resume. Is it okay that my deck is sitting there, or should I go ahead and use the Behr product (brightener & cleaner) I have on hand to "Neutralize" the current stripper?I've rinsed and rinsed, but from what I've read there's surely still some stripper in the wood.

Maggie, you should not mix stains of different brands. Also you have to strip all if switching stain brands.

I just reread my questions. Actually the wood deck is 3 levels plus the long bench which acts as a railing along the back, plus there are two large square holes that go around a couple of ornamental trees and the horizontal boards go in different angles to each other in a pattern and there is a natural cedar sauna barrel on top of part of the deck. Since trees have died from a disease, it is now a good time to strip what I have to, since they will not be affected. Still there are way too many angles and areas on which I must watch for drips and pooling while lying at odd angles with a paint brush to really want to have to do what currently does not need refinishing. After the advice to mix 2 different stains made by 2 different SW affiliates;even though the SW rep said it was "normal" for people to mix stains in this way, I did not bother to inquire about preparation. I do not want to be stripping fresh stain because it failed quickly; so I am seeking advise on mixing similar products.

30 year old deck. Around 800+sqft horizontal surface with two levels and built in long bench along the back. Deckscape semi-transparent was used last 3 times I stained deck. I pressure washed and spot scrubbed in the past. Last done 2 years ago. I blow leaves, etc off around 5 times a week from April to November and about twice a month in the cold months and keep gaps between boards clean. Verticals and shaded areas holding well. Flat, sunbaked surfaces peeling, some dry rot & other damage, but too expensive to replace so much, especially since odd thickness & width boards. Can I use stripper on flat and not mess up verticals too much? Then use RAD cleaner on the verticals and areas that are intact. Then restain all? Seems odd, but man @ Sherwin Williams said OK to mix 2 unopened cans of Deckstain & new SuperDeck semi-transparents in same 5 gallon bucket to keep color uniform. Wise to mix SW's old product & new product lines w/ different chemistry even though both water based? Thanks.

Frank:

Hello. Used the cleaner and brightener and love how they made our Tigerwood deck look beautiful again! Unfortunately, unexpected delays now make it at least 3 or maybe 4 weeks out from time of brightening to applying the stain (Armstrong Clark for hardwood). Must I re-brighten before applying stain? Do I also have to re-clean?
Thank you!

Re brighten and rinse well with water. Only clean again if it gets dirty or starts to gray again.

Hello. Used the cleaner and brightener and love how they made our Tigerwood deck look beautiful again! Unfortunately, unexpected delays now make it at least 3 or maybe 4 weeks out from time of brightening to applying the stain (Armstrong Clark for hardwood). Must I re-brighten before applying stain? Do I also have to re-clean?
Thank you!

Gianni:

Hi, I'm build a covered porch using 6x6 and 6x9 cedar posts and beams. I had the cedar milled locally last summer 2014. I lightly sanded it before building. It still looks clean and new. Do I really need to use the cleaner or can I just use the brightener before I apply my stain? Thanks.

You should do both.

Hi, I'm build a covered porch using 6x6 and 6x9 cedar posts and beams. I had the cedar milled locally last summer 2014. I lightly sanded it before building. It still looks clean and new. Do I really need to use the cleaner or can I just use the brightener before I apply my stain? Thanks.

mldriscoll:

Does the brightener need to be rinsed off?

Most do rinse but it does not have to.

Does the brightener need to be rinsed off?

mldriscoll:

I have both stained and unstained boards on my deck. I just cleaned the unstained boards and that went well. My question is can I wait to apply the brightener after I have stripped the stained boards? Also, what is the maximum amount of time I have to apply the brightener? I seem to remember someone saying 2 weeks was the max, but I'm not sure. The weather looks like it will be bad all week so I probably will not be able to strip it for a week or two. Can the boards that I just cleaned wait that long to be brightened?? Thanks!

You want to brighten as soon as possible after you are done stripping or cleaning, not wait weeks.

I have both stained and unstained boards on my deck. I just cleaned the unstained boards and that went well. My question is can I wait to apply the brightener after I have stripped the stained boards? Also, what is the maximum amount of time I have to apply the brightener? I seem to remember someone saying 2 weeks was the max, but I'm not sure. The weather looks like it will be bad all week so I probably will not be able to strip it for a week or two. Can the boards that I just cleaned wait that long to be brightened?? Thanks!

Jeff T"]A follow-up question:

After using the cleaner and brightener, the 4x4 posts for the rails (and the one 6x6 deck post I had replaced) now have a near-uniform green tint compared to the rest of the deck, which is very nice-looking clean wood. Previously, these posts had brighter green streaks in them. Is there anything that can be done about this, or do I just make do with the green tint? I have 5 gallons of amber semi-transparent arriving today regardless.

Thanks,

-Jeff


[quote name="TheSealerStore"][quote name="Jeff T:

I have a pressure-treated pine deck that had everything but the posts and joists redone last October - it is essentially a 2nd story deck coming off the back of a single story ranch with basement on a slope, 12 x 16 feet with stairs coming down the long side. ...[/quote]
You do not have to wash off the brightener.[/quote]

That is the wood itself and not much you can do about it.

A follow-up question:

After using the cleaner and brightener, the 4x4 posts for the rails (and the one 6x6 deck post I had replaced) now have a near-uniform green tint compared to the rest of the deck, which is very nice-looking clean wood. Previously, these posts had brighter green streaks in them. Is there anything that can be done about this, or do I just make do with the green tint? I have 5 gallons of amber semi-transparent arriving today regardless.

Thanks,

-Jeff


TheSealerStore"][quote name="Jeff T:

I have a pressure-treated pine deck that had everything but the posts and joists redone last October - it is essentially a 2nd story deck coming off the back of a single story ranch with basement on a slope, 12 x 16 feet with stairs coming down the long side. ...[/quote]
You do not have to wash off the brightener.

Jeff T:

I have a pressure-treated pine deck that had everything but the posts and joists redone last October - it is essentially a 2nd story deck coming off the back of a single story ranch with basement on a slope, 12 x 16 feet with stairs coming down the long side. I was able to do the cleaner step yesterday (power washed the posts and rails, scrubbed the decking) and washed it off until I couldn't see suds.

Today, I applied the brightener - and then ran out of daylight after work. As you can imagine the older framework remains darker than the new decking and rails, but not gray (darker brown).

Reviewing the posts here, it seems that washing the brightener off is not necessary. Is that true? I will be using Armstrong-Clark oil-based, semi-transparent (amber tone).

Thanks for a great product and informative website,

-Jeff

You do not have to wash off the brightener.

I have a pressure-treated pine deck that had everything but the posts and joists redone last October - it is essentially a 2nd story deck coming off the back of a single story ranch with basement on a slope, 12 x 16 feet with stairs coming down the long side. I was able to do the cleaner step yesterday (power washed the posts and rails, scrubbed the decking) and washed it off until I couldn't see suds.

Today, I applied the brightener - and then ran out of daylight after work. As you can imagine the older framework remains darker than the new decking and rails, but not gray (darker brown).

Reviewing the posts here, it seems that washing the brightener off is not necessary. Is that true? I will be using Armstrong-Clark oil-based, semi-transparent (amber tone).

Thanks for a great product and informative website,

-Jeff

sue:

I have a cedar deck which according to the calculator has a surface 880 sq ft. The estimate is 2 "jars" of RAD stripper and 2 jars of RAD brightener, AND 9 gallons of TWP stain.

A few questions:
1. According to your website, one 2 lbs "jar" of stripper is enough for 10 Gallons that should cover about 2,000 sq ft (100-300 sq ft/gallon). Why does the calculator assume 2 jars for 880 sq ft? Why is the range (100-300 sq ft/gallon) so 'wide", what amount should one use?

2. The estimate states that "Material requirements may vary according to application method, surface condition and weather conditions". How should one translate this, what could be the impact of these variables. Please give some examples.

3. The estimate states: "9 gallon(s) of TWP Wood Deck Stain (assuming 2 coats wet on wet use 2/3 amount for 1 coat)". What does the comment in parenthesis mean? I am sorry, I do not understand it, please explain.

Thanks.

1. Each Jar covers between 500-1000 sq feet. It is not exact.
2. Older wood take more stain than newer wood, If you spray the stain you will waste some and need more, certain wood types take stain differently, etc
3. If you apply only one coat you would need only 6 gallons compare two 9 for 2 coats.

sue:

I have a 6 yr. old 300 sq ft stained cedar deck that I am preparing to strip/brighten/stain. I live in Oegon where it rains a lot but the deck is mostly under cover. Is there a recommended periodic maintenance "procedure" that will extend the life of the stain? If so, is it described someplace on your website? Should we apply another coat of stain a year from now on top of the 1 yr old coat? How many coats of stain should we apply now after stripping and brightening? Thanks.

Depends on the stain brand you are choosing as to the amount of coats needed and reapplication for maintenance.

I have a cedar deck which according to the calculator has a surface 880 sq ft. The estimate is 2 "jars" of RAD stripper and 2 jars of RAD brightener, AND 9 gallons of TWP stain.

A few questions:
1. According to your website, one 2 lbs "jar" of stripper is enough for 10 Gallons that should cover about 2,000 sq ft (100-300 sq ft/gallon). Why does the calculator assume 2 jars for 880 sq ft? Why is the range (100-300 sq ft/gallon) so 'wide", what amount should one use?

2. The estimate states that "Material requirements may vary according to application method, surface condition and weather conditions". How should one translate this, what could be the impact of these variables. Please give some examples.

3. The estimate states: "9 gallon(s) of TWP Wood Deck Stain (assuming 2 coats wet on wet use 2/3 amount for 1 coat)". What does the comment in parenthesis mean? I am sorry, I do not understand it, please explain.

Thanks.

I have a 6 yr. old 300 sq ft stained cedar deck that I am preparing to strip/brighten/stain. I live in Oegon where it rains a lot but the deck is mostly under cover. Is there a recommended periodic maintenance "procedure" that will extend the life of the stain? If so, is it described someplace on your website? Should we apply another coat of stain a year from now on top of the 1 yr old coat? How many coats of stain should we apply now after stripping and brightening? Thanks.

Eric S:

My deck looks exactly like this at the moment.

Is heavy powerwashing neccesary to get the brightener out of the wood? Rain or a garden hose would leave the black spots the next day. Leaving the brightener on without rinsing looked fine until it got wet again.

The brightener is fixing the rust that is there now but as soon as it rains the screws are rusting again. The issue is the screws. They are rusting and ever time it rains it will get black again. Not much you can do except maybe replace all screws.

My deck looks exactly like this at the moment.

Is heavy powerwashing neccesary to get the brightener out of the wood? Rain or a garden hose would leave the black spots the next day. Leaving the brightener on without rinsing looked fine until it got wet again.

The water based stain was Defy on a pergola structure.

The floor is still to be stained.
I plan to use Armstrong Clark for the deck floor. I've tried to fix the dark spots around screws 2-3 times with different brightener concentrations and leaving it on without rinsing. It would look great the next day. But we are having terrible rainy weather with off and on rain every other day. If it rained or got wet afterwards the spots seemed to get darker than before. Is the brightener reacting to the screws or rust in a negative way? Will the dark spots return even if I am able stain after brightening but before a heavy rain?

Eric S"][quote name="TheSealerStore:

Yes and leave it on the wood without rinsing.[/quote]

I removed dark spots around screws by using this method. When dry the wood looked amazing and the black spots were gone. However when I went to stain over this the stain turned into more of a paste as it absorbed dried brightener. It smeared rather than penetrated. The stain was a water-based semi-transparent. An oil based stain may soak right through an be unaffected by the dried on brightener.

There is no issue doing this with an oil based stain.

TheSealerStore:

Yes and leave it on the wood without rinsing.

I removed dark spots around screws by using this method. When dry the wood looked amazing and the black spots were gone. However when I went to stain over this the stain turned into more of a paste as it absorbed dried brightener. It smeared rather than penetrated. The stain was a water-based semi-transparent. An oil based stain may soak right through an be unaffected by the dried on brightener.