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Spring 2007 Newsletter - What makes a wood sealer?

Happy New Year, readers! Though it seems a little 
preliminary to introduce the Spring Newsletter, the 
temperature this weekend is forecast to be 67 degrees on 
Saturday. I'm beginning to think we won't even see a winter 
here in the northeast. The warm weather and sunshine bring 
thoughts about spring maintenance. I want to try and dispel 
some of the myths about wood stains/sealers. 
 
How Do I Know Which Stain/Sealer Is Best? 
(For a quick lesson in types of sealers and application 
questions, check out the archived Spring 2006 issue of this 
newsletter) 
 
The key to sealer longevity once you get beyond good prep 
is the quality of the raw materials in the product. 
Unfortunately, with ever restricting VOC standards, many 
"once were" outstanding sealers have been reformulated into 
inferior products. The reason is, these products were not 
designed with VOC compliance as a design variable and most 
manufacturers have had to retro-develop (yes, I made that 
phrase up) their formulas. The problem is, being VOC 
compliant is expensive. Mineral spirits (a VOC) are 
relatively cheap. Replacing those spirits with quality oils 
and alternate carriers while not raising your price at 
shelf significantly is a very difficult balancing act. In 
my opinion, most of the larger manufacturers have turned 
out mediocre offerings. 
 
What Are Some Of The Issues With the New Generation 
Products? 
 
Shortcomings I have seen in commercially available coatings 
include excessive color shift, sealers with rapid sloping 
failure (once it begins to go, it goes quickly), less than 
adequate mold resistance and recoating issues. Without 
getting too technical as to why these occur, the majority 
of it is rooted in having to reformulate. The VOC (volatile 
organic compound) levels standards around the country are 
tightening. A company such as Cabot's, Wolman's or Flood 
(CWF) has to fight a battle. Instead of having the liberty 
of starting from scratch they have to use their existing 
branding and make their offerings compliant while keeping 
the product compatible with their older formulas. I do not 
envy them, as this is a very difficult task. Couple the 
fact that corporate profit margins as well as end user 
price are prevalent design factors, is the best one can 
hope for a mediocre sealer..something with no field 
longevity testing? From this author’s perspective and field 
experience, it appears so. 
 
I get asked often which is the best product to use on 
exterior wood. There really is no 'one-product-fits-all'. 
Factors such as species, age of the wood and exposure have 
to be taken into consideration. A fence sealer will not 
need nearly the durability as a sealer applied to the 
floorboards on a deck. It is for this reason we are 
offering three stain / sealer lines that will give a person 
the best possible solution for their application.  
 
Paraffinic Oil Based 
 
This type of oil can be best characterized as a 
conditioner. It is non-drying which simply means it never 
cures. This type of product is very easy to apply and 
maintain. It requires a minimum of two coats to look good 
and last. Maintenance is a very simple wash and 
reapplication. No stripping necessary unless changing color 
dramatically. The cons of this type of product are that it 
may not hold up quite as well as other true sealers (the 
curing variety) and although rare, some people have had 
problems with it leaching onto wet feet and tracking onto a 
carpet. Every time it rains, it can be subject to minor 
degradation so in very wet climates more frequent 
maintenance is necessary. Since it is so easy to apply, 
recoating is recommended every 1-2 years. Multiple coats 
give more protection. The finish is semi transparent 
meaning you can see the grain. 
 
Alkyds/Curing Oils 
 
The most prevalent kind of oil based product. Alkyds are 
man made and are a class of polyester coatings derived from 
the reaction of an alcohol and an acid. You may also hear 
the term resin used when referring to alkyds. The products 
usually have a mineral added to promote curing. This type 
of sealer (depending upon the quality of materials in it) 
can last the longest and provide the best protection from 
the elements without resorting to a solid stain. The finish 
will not have the deep penetrating capabilities of a 
paraffinic, but it will also not leach out. It is 
considered a semi-transparent finish (you can see the 
beauty of the wood under it. It will repel water longer and 
hold up to foot traffic longer. It is a bit more difficult 
to apply, as drips left under a railing will show up when 
the floor is coated. Maintenance is also a bit more 
involved as you have to make sure the surface is "open" to 
accepting new sealer. The way you test for this is to place 
some water droplets onto a surface and se it the water 
absorbs into the wood. You could also use Step-1 of the 
Restore-A-Deck system to remove the top layer of the sealer 
and allow for instant recoat. If proper prep is performed 
and a high quality product is utilized, you should be fine 
recoating every two years.  
 
You can get longer life from an alkyd-based product by 
applying a 'wet-on-wet' second coat (meaning you seal a 
portion of the wood and ten minutes later you apply a 
second coat). Most alkyds will protect your deck adequately 
with one coat. 
 
Note: There are proponents of using an alkyd/drying oil 
such as TWP wet-on-dry. That is applying a coat of sealer, 
allowing it to cure and then applying another coat several 
days later. I believe that is a poor practice as it may 
appear more rich and give you a sheen, you are setting 
yourself up for coatings failure and a very difficult 
stripping job. 
 
How About Sealing Hardwoods Such As My Ipe Deck? 
 
None of the conventional wisdoms apply with ipe. It is very 
difficult to keep a finish on. Our Hardwood Wiping Stain is 
going to be the product with which I think most people are 
going to have success. We have combined very expensive 
resins, double the industry standard levels of 
pigmentation, double the industry standards of mildewcide, 
and an efficiently drying oil as well as non drying oil to 
come up with a product that we have thus far tested for 18 
months. I don't want to let the cat out of the bag just yet 
but come March 1st, 2007 you will begin to hear the buzz. 
 
Also look for our new premium quality non-hardwood sealer, 
which will be hitting the market at the same time. We are 
streamlining the website with calculators and web 
assistants to guide you through making a purchase. We are 
also introducing Restore-A-Crete concrete restoration 
system, concrete sealers, and Restore-A-Wash a DIY house 
washing kit to make your siding look good and leave your 
windows sparkling. 
 
Thank you for a great year, 2007 is going to be fantastic.

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